2wd front wheel bearings
How often do I need to pack the the front bearings(2wd) and how big of a job is it to pull the hubs off?
Re: 2wd front wheel bearings
I'm looking forward (NOT) to doing the same thing.
I'm not sure of mileage to do this job - but if you are going to do pads - it would seem to me that this is the ideal time.
Search for removeing calipers do that then remove hub (unscrew hub nut) after removing cotter pin - pull off hub - when hub is lying on ground (or whatever) carefully punch out inner seal, lower bearing should fall out, clean old grease - regrease with factory spec. (I'm going to use syn.)
Instal brgs. TAP IN NEW SEAL VEWY,VEWY CAREFULY - instal on spindal - hook up caliper.
pay attention to wheel hub tightness - install cotter pin (new)
Sounds so gosh darn simple !!!!
Am I missing anything?
OOOHHH - BTW - order ALL PARTS you think you need from Dale - @
Re: 2wd front wheel bearings
My Scheduled Maintenance Guide say every 30,000 miles you should "Inspect/adjust 4x2 wheel bearings for end play."
It seems sorta silly to go to that much trouble and not repack the bearings while you're in there. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] But nowhere does it mention the actual repacking of the wheel bearings.
However, my dealer is a little more plain-spoken. His scheduled maintenance guide for PSDs says every 35,000 miles to "Inspect and re-pack front wheel bearings 2WD. $60.75".
Here are most of the words from the workshop manual:
[ QUOTE ]
2000 F-Super Duty/Excursion/Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual
SECTION 204-01A: Front Suspension — <font color="red">4x2 </font>
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Bearing and Hub —F250, F350, Excursion
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.
Remove the front disc brake caliper and rotor, and position the caliper out of the way.
Remove the hub cap from the hub assembly.
Remove the cotter pin, adjusting nut and flatwasher.
NOTE: Inspect the condition of the spindle and nut threads to ensure a free turning nut when reassembling.
Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly, and pull the hub assembly from the spindle.
Using care not to damage the bearing cage, use a suitable slide hammer and bearing seal remover to remove the inner bearing cone and bearing seal.
CAUTION: Do not spin the bearing dry with compressed air.
NOTE: Remove all traces of lubricant from the bearings, hub and axle spindle. Inspect bearings and bearing cups for pitting, spalling or unusual wear. If either bearings or bearing cups are worn or damaged, replace both bearings and bearing cups.
NOTE: It is recommended that bearings and bearing cups be replaced in sets. If cups are worn or damaged, install the inner and outer bearing cups in the hub with an appropriate bearing cup driver tool. Check for proper seating of new bearing cups by trying to insert a 0.38-mm (0.0015-inch) feeler gauge between the bottom face of the cup and wheel hub seat. You should not be able to insert the feeler gauge.
Remove all burrs, nicks or scratches from the shoulder of the spindle and seal bore in the hub with emery cloth.
Pack the inside of the hub with lithium-base wheel bearing grease such as Motorcraft Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B. Fill the hub until the grease is flush with the inside diameters of both bearing cups.
Pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with wheel bearing grease. Use a bearing packer for this operation. If a packer is not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers and cages.
CAUTION: Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the grease seal or spindle threads.
Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup and install the wheel bearing hub seal, using a suitable seal replacer. Make sure seal is fully seated and lubricated.
Install the hub assembly.
Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly and the flatwasher on the spindle and install the adjusting nut;
Wheel Bearing Adjustment —F-250, F-350, F-450, F-550
CAUTION: Wheel seals on the front axles must be replaced any time the axle lubricants are changed from factory-installed mineral lube to synthetic lube or vice versa.
CAUTION: If bearings are adjusted too tightly, they will overheat and wear rapidly. An adjustment that is excessively loose can cause pounding and contribute to uneven tire wear, steering difficulties and inefficient brakes. Check bearing adjustment at regular inspection intervals. New wheel seals must be installed when the hub is removed. A damaged or worn seal can permit bearing lubricant to reach the brake linings, resulting in ineffective brake operation and necessitating premature replacement of linings. To check the wheel bearing adjustment, raise the front of the vehicle. Grasp the tire at the sides, and alternately push inward and pull outward on the tire. If any looseness is felt, adjust the front wheel bearings as follows.
While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 21 lb/ft to seat the bearings.
Back off the adjusting nut until loose.
While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut 120 to 180 degrees. Torque required to rotate the hub should be 2 Nm (18 lb-in).
Install the castellated nut and insert a new cotter pin.
Install the hub cap.
Install the front disc brake caliper and rotor. For additional information, refer to Section 206-03 .
Install the front wheel and tire assemblies.
Lower the vehicle.
[/ QUOTE ]
Instead of a new post, I'll try to revive this one.
Need to replace the Wheel Bearing on the Passenger Side of 2002 Excursion 2WD. Should be easy, but I cannot get the hub off the spindle. Anyone have any tricks to make this happen? The book makes it sound like it should fall off. I've removed the nut lock, the nut, and the washer. Hammering a block of wood on the back for some time has not loosened this at all. Not sure if this is heat seized or rusted. Ugh. This is broke down in my yard. Apparently there was no slow fall from grace on this thing. I just sounded like I hit something and was OUT. popping, cracking, grinding inside the hub. Didn't think I was gonna make the 1/2 mile back to the house. Glad I was close to home...
Your sure this is a 2wd? Have you taken the brake caliper off? There is nothing to rust on. The only thing that might hang would be the seal, but a gentle tug should overcome that. Did the bearings disintegrate? Did the outer bearing come out yet?
Thanks for the response. This is a two wheel drive (although I wish otherwise sometimes) and the brake caliper is removed. It appears that the outer bearing has somehow seized to the spindle. Placing a large socket on the outer bearing surface and tapping makes the situation worse so I'm assuming that this bearing is the issue.
Hammering has not availed AT ALL. There is limited surface to strike as the brake shield is there, but I can get a 2x4 and a small sledge to it. Can get a much firmer blow to the front in an attempt to jar loose, but nada. Penetrating oil overnight didn't improve any either. Looks like I'm gonna have to figure out how to destroy this bearing somehow. Any thoughts are appreciated
here's a pic - thanks
That's what is going to have to happen. That outer bearing has to come out first. Your going to have to get aggressive with this. I consider accept the spindle is destroyed, so you might be ok with taking a torch to it.
Was able to take a Dremel and cut the bearing down to remove the outer bearing in pieces, This allowed be to remove the hub and inner bearing and then hammer the remaining bit of the out bearing off, saving the spindle. Need to grease the other side next week. Hope there ain't a repeat.
I have a 2007 F350 RWD, owners manual says to replace front wheel bearings at 120,000 miles. Is this an arbitrary item or can I just inspect and reinstall?
You could, but they’re so cheap why not just start fresh? Order Timken bearings on Rockauto along with the inner seal. Might even order a set of brake pads as well. I’d also get the caliper pin boots. Clean, polish, and relube the caliper pins while you’re there.
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