Chip install or Regear axles - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
1999-2007 General Questions General questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

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  • 1 Post By 69mach1377
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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Chip install or Regear axles

I just bought a 2001 F350 4x4 and it came with a 8 inch lift on 37x12.50x16.5 military tires. It drives fine around town and on the interstate but any headwind or hill and it really slows down. Would I be better off with a PHP or similar chip or should I regear the axles? Would dropping down to a 35 inch tire help much or not really? Thanks.

2001 F350 PSD SRW 4x4 CC- Automatic, 8" lift on 35x12.50x18 Goodyear Military Wrangler MT/R. 4" MBRP Turbo Back exhaust, Autometer Gauges, AirRaid intake.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 11:06 PM
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With the lift and tires, you can't expect much. Lol
Chip will help. But it will take quite a bit of power to offset the extra rotational mass, along with the extra wind resistance from the lift.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 11:25 PM
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And don't forget that if you regear the rear end you will need to regear the front end as well.

That is unless you never plan on putting it into 4wd.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 09:59 AM
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Ask yourself, do you really need a monster truck?
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2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/rebuilt 4R100, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
Jayco 26BHS elite, no RV parks...just the woods, lakes and streams if possible.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 10:19 AM
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What do you plan to use the truck for? What gears are in it now? What kind of millage is on it now?
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure what gears are in it now, I just got home with it a few days ago and haven't had the time to jack it up and check the gearing. It is mainly a daily driver and will probably tow a camper in the future. With the trip from Southern Arizona back to Wisconsin the Odometer just hit 203000. It did really well on the trip back but when I started hitting some long hills and the wind was hitting me head on I could tell I need to go with a smaller tire size or change out the gears.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 04:18 PM
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If you could notice the wind or hills with a empty truck you will have a real issue with Towing. You can do it by adding more power, if the axle gears are not to high, but expect you fuel millage to suffer with a lift and big tires. Push it too hard and you may need a new tranny. I would guess you like the lifted look that is why you picked it up. The downside of having a lifted big tire truck is poor MPG and a higher CG that can be a issue when towing. People do it all the time and do fine you just have to pick your poison. I am old so I like mine to sit even lower then stock.
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Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 04:30 PM
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If whoever did the lift left the stock gearing odds are you have 3:73's.

For towing a camper it is going to depend on what type of camper. A bumper pull you will have to put a drop hitch on it and depending on the weight of the camper a equalizer hitch which won't work too well with a lift. If the camper is a fifth wheel you are going to have to lower the truck to clear the bed rails.

Lifted trucks have very little use if you plan to use the truck as a truck.
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
I am old so I like mine to sit even lower then stock.
Que up the tune...Low Ri Der lol

2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/rebuilt 4R100, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
Jayco 26BHS elite, no RV parks...just the woods, lakes and streams if possible.
See my album for a recent pic.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 08:04 PM
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I took the stock blocks out of my 99 DRW and set springs on the axle pads, added airbags. I was able to lower the open tailgate hight by 5 inches!! Makes loading/unloading stuff a lot easier. Lot of rail clearance for the 5th wheel also. The look is not for everyone.
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadgerFan View Post
Not sure what gears are in it now, I just got home with it a few days ago and haven't had the time to jack it up and check the gearing.
With it lifted like that, you probably don't even need to jack it up to get to the rear diff cover to check for the tag. There should be one under a bolt toward the upper right of the cover. It'll tell you what your axle ratio is and whether it's an open or limited slip differential. There will be a number like 3 73 for an open diff, or 3L73 for limited slip. Like Bugman said, the majority of trucks came with 3.73 axle ratio, with some with 4.10's. I'd bet 10:1 that yours is a 3.73.


Like the other guys said, lifts and toy hauling are not really compatible. You'd be pushing an even taller than normal brick thru the air. Definitely not aerodynamic.

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'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Just want to say thanks to everyone who posted on this topic, it seems like the most economical way to get back into the power band would be to drop the truck down to 2-4 inch lift and go with a much smaller tire. I have been looking at possibly putting X code stock front springs under the front and going with a PMF 2-4 inch hanger and shackle kit. Does anyone have any experience with PMF, or is there another brand I should be looking at? Once again a big thanks to all you guys who helped me out with this.
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