Mystery leak? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
1999-2007 General Questions General questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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Mystery leak?

Greetings,

So, I found a spot of oil on the floor of my barn. Clear oil coming from this (picture attached). Would this be the Torque converter? If it is how big of a pain are they to fix?
Thanks!
Semper Fi

2000 F250 7.3 CC

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the picture
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"It does not require a majority to prevail, but rather an irate, tireless minority keen to set brush fires in people's minds."
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 03:27 PM
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The valley of the engine has a drain in the rear that will cause leaks from the top of the engine to drain down the back just like you are experiencing. Many a naive mechanic has replaced the rear main seal only to discover that wasn't the source. Get up top and see if you have a leaking HPOP or turbo. Could even be a fuel leak. The torque converter would bleed red.

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM, Full Force Stage 1 injectors

IF MY BODY IS EVER FOUND ON A JOGGING TRAIL JUST KNOW THAT I WAS MURDERED SOMEWHERE ELSE AND DUMPED THERE
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, great thank you RT! It is clear and oily with no smell. Almost looks like the brake fluid coming out of my wiring harness by the Master Cylinder (taking it to Ford ASAP for the recall). I will go out and check it out as soon as this blizzard is over!!!

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 07:15 PM
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How is your ail conditioning? It could be oil from the refrigerant.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 07:20 PM
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Out of the back of the motor? Kind of a circuitous route.

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM, Full Force Stage 1 injectors

IF MY BODY IS EVER FOUND ON A JOGGING TRAIL JUST KNOW THAT I WAS MURDERED SOMEWHERE ELSE AND DUMPED THERE
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-23-2016, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Have not checked the AC yet, it is 20 here with Blizzard conditions here in Maryland. As soon as I can get to the barn I will check all of the above

Thanks!

Semper Fidelis

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Update,

When I checked the Vally of the engine I found some pools of Diesel. I suspected the fuel bowl valve gaskets but when I turned the truck on and off over the past few days I found this leaking (picture attached). When I tried to tighten it up a bit it snapped...Dohhhh Time to replace the FPR housing!!..How hard is this to replace? The connector that goes into the housing also broke off into the brass nut...arghghg Anyone have any good advice on kits or how to re-flare the tip of the fuel line while it is in place?


Thanks all!

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2016, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I received all the O rings from Bob at Diesel O rings, cut and re-fluted the return line, rebuilt the fuel bowl with all new O rings. But now the biggest bugger is getting the old compression fitting out of the tubing nuts. I have been using pick tools but what a pain. Any hints or suggestions on getting those buggers out?
Thanks!

Semper Fidelis
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2016, 11:38 PM
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If I'm understanding correctly, you cut the line off and re-flared it, and now need to get the broken piece out of the nut. I'd suggest putting the nut in a vise and using a sharpened punch to tap the broken stub counterclockwise. Or try a screw extractor that will engage the center of the stub.

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), AIS,
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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I removed the old nut when I cut the line. What you see in the picture is the new nut and new sleeve that I installed before re-flaring. What I am referring to is if anyone has tips/suggestions on removing the old degraded compression sleeves on the remaining 3 nuts. I have been picking at them with a picking tool with little progress.
Thanks!

Semper Fidelis

"It does not require a majority to prevail, but rather an irate, tireless minority keen to set brush fires in people's minds."
Samuel Adams

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so it also looks like I need new Alternator. Does anyone have any experience with Bosch? Specifically this one AL7555N, it only cranks out 105 AMPS is that enough? I have the Camper package on my 2000 F250 SD, 7.3. I have gone over all kinds of posts on alternators but no reference to Bosch and to stay away from re-manufactured ones (most brands)

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Semper Fidelis

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 02:57 PM
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105 seems a little light. But if you don't plow snow or used very heavy electrical devices, maybe. Bosch seems like the German Samsung. Makes everything. Some great, some good. I've never witnessed a Bosch (or Samsung) piece of junk. Still seems like you might want more amps though.

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016, 05:04 AM Thread Starter
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Well folks, after replacing the FPR housing,fuel line pressure sleeves, and fuel bowl O-rings I have no more leaks! The engine valley has been bone dry for over a month of driving!! Thanks all for your help.

Semper Fidelis

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Usmc1968 View Post
Well folks, after replacing the FPR housing,fuel line pressure sleeves, and fuel bowl O-rings I have no more leaks! The engine valley has been bone dry for over a month of driving!! Thanks all for your help.

Semper Fidelis
Thanks for following up.
I have my fuel bowl o-ring kit from Diesel O-Rings but have not started the project yet.
Did you do the complete disassembly and cleaning of the fuelbowl found on the Guzzle website?

Also, I didn't buy the new FPR housing...is that typically replaced at this same time?


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 03-31-2016 at 06:13 AM.
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