No A/C '2003 F250 - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
1999-2007 General Questions General questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 06:54 PM
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...... I'm thinking the dryer might be bad?
I once had a guy tell me he thought his car wouldn't move because the u-joints were slipping.

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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I once had a guy tell me he thought his car wouldn't move because the u-joints were slipping.
Sorry...not a pro here. Trying to learn, that's why I posted the thread. Give a guy a break. We are all not pro mechanics.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 07:44 PM
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No - the dryer doesn't really "go bad" - the dessicant can disperse throughout the system, but that is rare. More likely you are still either undercharged or you have a restriction in the orifice tube. Really need high and low side pressures to evaluate this, with respect to ambient temperature and cabin temperature.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 07:44 PM
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I once had a guy tell me he thought his car wouldn't move because the u-joints were slipping.
Did you sell him some anti-slip additive?

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM, Full Force Stage 1 injectors

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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No - the dryer doesn't really "go bad" - the dessicant can disperse throughout the system, but that is rare. More likely you are still either undercharged or you have a restriction in the orifice tube. Really need high and low side pressures to evaluate this, with respect to ambient temperature and cabin temperature.
Hey RT,

Thanks for the reply. I didn't have access to any other gauges other than what came with the can, so was not able to get high side pressure. The temp inside the truck had to be over 100 degrees (sitting in the sun all day) and outside temperature was around 75. Took it to the shop on Thursday to have it and other issues checked out.
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 08:27 PM
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Did you sell him some anti-slip additive?
I got to rebuild his transmission, an early 60's T-Bird.

The owner of the shop had a little fun out of the guy, he took it well.

He was the Doctor we all went to if we needed a Doctor.

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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 08:31 PM
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You’d have to be a doctor to afford to keep one of those old Tbirds running...


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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 08:36 PM
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Hey folks!
Thanks for all your replies. I bought an extended warranty, and it looks like the system might be covered. The dryer is not getting cold at all, can't see any oily substances, so at this juncture I'm thinking the dryer might be bad?
The A/C is low on refrigerant, has a leak somewhere. Shouldn't be hard to find by the shop.
Good deal having insurance, should be back to normal soon.

Here in California we have to leave a deposit of $5 per can of 134 as a recycling deposit. 30-days to recover the $5 per can.
I stocked up while at the Idaho ranch!

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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 11:49 AM
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Hey fordtough, sounds like your short on equipment to properly fix the a/c... it’s best to have a shop put some dye in the system and watch for leaks, fix the leaks and add the proper amount measured by weight. I know it sounds long and expensive but it’s the only way to properly fix it. “Decadents” or “air dryers” only go bad if the system is exposed to air (leaking system could do it if the leak is bad) please remember that r134 is still toxic to our environment, it’s just not as bad as r12

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