Throttle pedal replacement - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
1999-2007 General Questions General questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-03-2018, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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Throttle pedal replacement

I've been having some issues with the accelerator pedal. I replaced it about a month ago with a new in box OEM replacement from eBay for 90$, thing looked new and came in a OEM box. Tonight it kept kicking the check engine light 10 times 30 Miles. When I got home I used forscan and readings were everywhere. My issue seems like a grain of debris got in there. I'll admit my floor mats are really dirty, I come home with uncured concrete on my shoes which is highly alkaline and very corrosive to copper and I have tiny iron ferrite particals, and steel shavings. Maybe some one from the ntsb would like to see me doing a write up on how to add a boeing throttle quadrant into a f250. As I come up with my own solution to a Ford defect. While I'm at it maybe someone has some ideas as to which particular throttle control would make them hate it the most. Maybe something Russian?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-03-2018, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Lots of mig parts around the net, and there is Probably enough for one for each of us🤔. Boeing stuff seems a bit scarce. I guess the flight x crowd is busy making flight simulator cockpits with surplus hardware. Just need to figure out a good snow plow. I Can't wait to fall asleep in the safety of the back seat of my f250 like it's a tesla, and say, "ok Google, wake me up right before I reach the beach.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-03-2018, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razrburn View Post
I've been having some issues with the accelerator pedal. I replaced it about a month ago with a new in box OEM replacement from eBay for 90$, thing looked new and came in a OEM box. Tonight it kept kicking the check engine light 10 times 30 Miles. When I got home I used forscan and readings were everywhere. My issue seems like a grain of debris got in there. I'll admit my floor mats are really dirty, I come home with uncured concrete on my shoes which is highly alkaline and very corrosive to copper and I have tiny iron ferrite particals, and steel shavings. Maybe some one from the ntsb would like to see me doing a write up on how to add a boeing throttle quadrant into a f250. As I come up with my own solution to a Ford defect. While I'm at it maybe someone has some ideas as to which particular throttle control would make them hate it the most. Maybe something Russian?

Not sure how your contamination becomes a Ford defect... perhaps, just perhaps your concern was mis-diagnosed and you assumed the pedal was bad and loaded the part cannon and fired one at it? Suppose, just suppose the harness has an issue somewhere. When disconnecting the accelerator you moved the harness and temporarily corrected a poor connection or circuit concern which in time has returned. Happens all the time. I recommend scrutinizing the connection and harness a little closer before condemning your month-old accelerator.


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-03-2018, 09:48 AM
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When my boots are caked with mud, manure, concrete or oil then I throw them in the bed and swap on something clean.

No way I want that stuff in my cab but sometimes there is no choice with a company truck.

On the topic of OEM parts off Ebay...I try to order from Sellers like Sunrise Ford who still offer the 2-year Ford warranty when possible.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
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Last edited by ArcticDriver; 06-03-2018 at 09:59 AM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 06:36 PM
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I just ran into a nightmare with my throttle pedal. Ive had it **** out before, id be driving and press the throttle to no response the check engine light would kick on; sometimes when i let off and pressed it again it would come back sometimes not. However when I replaced the pedal all issues went away but this time I put a new pedal in and still had absoltely nothing. Now on my 02 7.3 the fly by wire system needs to see the idle validation switch and voltage to make the truck move. If the voltage from the pedal and the voltage/ IVS at the pcm disagree the truck will not move. After i replaced the pedal and still got nothing i was fearing it was time for a new PCM. However it ended up being a broken wire on the pigtail right near the throttle. I didnt cut and spice anything I just piggy-backed a new wire from the pedal to the pcm and bingo. I have about 500 miles on it since and everything runs mint. Thank god.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DauphineeLandscaping View Post
I just ran into a nightmare with my throttle pedal. Ive had it **** out before, id be driving and press the throttle to no response the check engine light would kick on; sometimes when i let off and pressed it again it would come back sometimes not. However when I replaced the pedal all issues went away but this time I put a new pedal in and still had absoltely nothing. Now on my 02 7.3 the fly by wire system needs to see the idle validation switch and voltage to make the truck move. If the voltage from the pedal and the voltage/ IVS at the pcm disagree the truck will not move. After i replaced the pedal and still got nothing i was fearing it was time for a new PCM. However it ended up being a broken wire on the pigtail right near the throttle. I didnt cut and spice anything I just piggy-backed a new wire from the pedal to the pcm and bingo. I have about 500 miles on it since and everything runs mint. Thank god.

I am curious as to how much money you threw at this problem. Someone like myself could have diagnosed and properly repaired this for a fraction of the cost of the PCM and the pedal assembly. I am not picking on you - I hate to see people ripped off, especially when they do it to themselves. JMHO


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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When my new replacement(doorman) went out a month in after being replaced. I swapped back to my original pedal. That was bathed in contact cleaner, while getting a ritual rythmic beating. Afterwards being pulled and shelved. I've since switched back to my original, And have been problem free. Doorman pedals are crap. Looking at it later, the doorman part was twisting allowing it to spring up more than intended I came to the conclusion that fixing the doorman pedal would be short lived at best.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDauphinee7.3 View Post
I just ran into a nightmare with my throttle pedal. Ive had it **** out before, id be driving and press the throttle to no response the check engine light would kick on; sometimes when i let off and pressed it again it would come back sometimes not. However when I replaced the pedal all issues went away but this time I put a new pedal in and still had absoltely nothing. Now on my 02 7.3 the fly by wire system needs to see the idle validation switch and voltage to make the truck move. If the voltage from the pedal and the voltage/ IVS at the pcm disagree the truck will not move. After i replaced the pedal and still got nothing i was fearing it was time for a new PCM. However it ended up being a broken wire on the pigtail right near the throttle. I didnt cut and spice anything I just piggy-backed a new wire from the pedal to the pcm and bingo. I have about 500 miles on it since and everything runs mint. Thank god.
Does your 2002 have adjustable height pedals?


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by razrburn View Post
When my new replacement(doorman) went out a month in after being replaced. I swapped back to my original pedal. That was bathed in contact cleaner, while getting a ritual rythmic beating. Afterwards being pulled and shelved. I've since switched back to my original, And have been problem free. Doorman pedals are crap. Looking at it later, the doorman part was twisting allowing it to spring up more than intended I came to the conclusion that fixing the doorman pedal would be short lived at best.
For future readers, bathing in contact cleaner sometimes does more harm than good.

In the photos are the inside of the contacts. You will see a pivot arm with copper prongs and the opposite side are copper particles glued to the plastic housing. The particles go from thin to thick and as the prongs travel along these surfaces, the volts change according to the thickness of the copper particles.

Contact cleaner damages the adhesive which secures these particles in place and the prongs then scrape them off soon after.

You may have a different sensor, this photo is from a throttle pedal on a 2002 with adjustable pedal height.
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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
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