1995 7.3 rough running - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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1995 7.3 rough running

1995 7.3 no mods whatsoever with 111k miles. It will start and run but it runs as if half the injectors aren’t firing and the CEL will come on. It will run that way until I shut it off, which is pretty darn fast as I don’t want to make whatever is wrong worse than it is. I have replaced the CPS, checked the ICP valve for oil in the plug, there isn’t any, and left it unhooked and started the engine but it still runs horrible. I am new to all this so I don’t know where else to start troubleshooting or what I should be looking for. I don’t have a scan tool and I can’t get it anywhere to have someone read the code. The check engine light only comes on if it’s running and I don’t know if that’s how it’s supposed to work or not. Any help is greatly appreciated as this is a family truck and we don’t want to get rid of it and can’t afford to have someone else fix it.

Also the CPS I installed was from NAPA and had the gray body. From what I’m reading people are having trouble with aftermarket sensors so I’ve ordered the dark blue one from International.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 08:44 AM
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Without getting the codes read any answer will just be shooting in the dark, and shotgunning parts at is can get real expensive fast.

There are a couple of things that you can check real fast. Pull the oil fill cap off and smell the odor coming out of it to see if it smells like burnt wiring. You can also pull the plugs on the valve cover harness and look to see if the pins look burnt. You can also do a resistance check from the IDM wiring to see if there might be a problem with the wiring.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the reply. I’ll check what you suggested. If the engine throws a code will the CEL be on the next time I go to start it, or does it only come on while the engine is running? What code reader can I get to get codes off the truck? The truck has the port under the dash on the passenger side but I’ve also read not just any reader can get the codes.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 01:50 PM
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There are a couple of cheap ways to read the codes on these trucks.

One is getting a OBD II adapter and then using a android smart phone, here is a thread on another forum about it.

https://www.powerstrokenation.com/fo...s-android.html

Another way is to use Forscan. It is a free program that runs on a laptop. You would need to purchase either a bluetooth OBD II adapter or a cord with a MS-Can & HS-Can switch on it. I use this cord.




Here is a link to Forscan

https://forscan.org/

And one to their forums

https://forscan.org/forum/

Then once you have the code you can check the code against this list to see what usually causes it for the repair.

https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94.../9596pced.php3


As for the CEL if the light came on there will be a code stored on the PCM until it is cleared.

Also if you are handy with a volt/ohm meter here is the test for the wiring coming off of the IDM to the injectors. This will tell you if there is a wiring problem such as a short, ground, open, and even if there is something going on with the injectors. Just as a FYI if the IDM recognizes a problem with the injectors on one side of the truck it will shut down that whole side until the problem either goes away or is fixed.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf GB_Tech_Bulletin_103_Ford IDM_Module_Replacement.pdf (710.5 KB, 3 views)

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Pulled the IDM off and shook it and it has no water in it as far as I can tell. Shook it and no sound of water. Checked the resistance on everything in the harness from it and all the injectors tested 2.8-2.9 on all but one and that one had 3.1. Checked both IDM/ground and both were tested OL. Tested both power feed to injector ground shields and got OL on the right bank and 3.1 ohms on the left bank. Pulled the connector off the valve cover and the left female socket, holding it with the clip facing up, and looked like it was melted a little. Where do I go from here? New plug?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 05:56 PM
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Unplug the left bank harness from the valve cover gasket and test it again and see if you are still getting the 3.1 ohm reading. That may be your problem

If you still get the same reading then one of the connectors on that side just may be the problem.

Remember that there are 2 connectors on each valve cover gasket. Each one controls 2 injectors and 2 glow plugs.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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I’m ordering the cable from Amazon you suggested and I have an old laptop with windows 10 on it that will run Forscan hopefully. I used the test procedure from http://gbreman.com/techbulletin_103.html to get my readings (sorry I don’t know how to use one word as a link). Is there a diagram somewhere that shows what wires are what on each of those plugs? Just so I know which wires go to what. Thank you for the continuous help.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 12:39 AM
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I don't have a wiring diagram to post but they are quite simple to figure out.

They go:

Glow Plug/Injector/common/Injector/Glow Plug

Just cut on the bad one with enough wire where you can tell what the colors are. Also when you replace the plug only use solder and heat shrink for the splices, no but connectors.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
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Ordered new repair plug, two new UVCH’s and a gasket. Just going to go ahead and replace it all while I have the valve cover off. Is there any bolts or nuts I should check to see if they’re loose while I have the valve cover offf?
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 09:49 AM
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The only thing that I would do is to inspect the wiring going to the glow plugs and injectors. That along with doing a ohm test on each glow plug which should be between 0.6 and 2 ohms

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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