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'1996 7.3L no start

4K views 38 replies 8 participants last post by  MrTommy 
#1 ·
I’ve been having problems with my 1996 f350 7.3, it stalled out the other day on my way home, so I ordered a new CPS from ford and installed it last night. Drove it around for about 20 minutes and it was driving fine. This morning on my way to school it stalled again but started back up. On my way home it stalled out about 5 more times and I barely made it home... started it when I got home and it was idling terrible, RPMs where continuously rising and falling. Turned it off and now it won’t start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and tried starting it again and still nothing, just cranks. Now I’m wondering if maybe it’s the IPR?? If anyone has any knowledge or experience with this please let me know.

Thanks,
Christian


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#4 ·
Of those 60 people how many were bots?

As Aaron said, connecting a scanner that will read live data will help a lot. Other than that how is your fuel level? Is there fuel in the filter housing and how is the fuel filter?
 
#5 ·
2 hours and already getting pissy? Damn.
How about some diagnosing?
Sounds like fuel supply, imo.

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#6 ·
Most of work day jobs I'm assuming and can't jump right on it! Anyway,
CEL illuminated?
Oil Level good?
Wait-to-Start light coming on?
RPMs registering while cranking?
Fuel Pressure while cranking?
Tried switching fuel tanks?
Any mods like a chip?
IPR "tin nut" on and snug?

Cheers!
 
#12 ·
I believe that you have to have a Windows operating system on the Mac to get it to work. Check out the Forscan forum, they will have all the answers to your questions.

I picked up the cord off of Amazon to connect.

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]
 
#13 ·
#14 ·
So I put some fuel in the rear tank and it started right up, let it idle for about 15 minutes and then it just randomly died again, started back up but was running terrible and now it’s not staring again at all. Seems to only be doing it when it’s warmed up....


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#15 ·
On another forum you said you have a chip (which I asked above BTW). Physically remove the chip from the PCM (don't just put it at stock setting) and then see what happens. Get the problem fixed before reinstalling the chip. Cheers!
 
#17 ·
Chips are electronic and electronics will so weird things. It could be as simple as a bad connection from the chip to the PCM or the chip getting some RF interference from somewhere that is causing the problem
 
#19 ·
That front black plastic piece has to be popped off first.

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#23 ·
Not "safely."
Make sure the cable isnt hanging up.
I've always had to pry the fender liner down as well. But doesn't sound like you've made it that far.

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#24 ·
I removed everything to pull it out, but it just won’t pull out for some reason.... I took the ebrake plate off from inside the cab and was able to unplug the chip from the back of the pcm. I just want to make sure it’s ok for me to try to start it now


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#25 ·
As long as the chip is fully out and the PCM is connected, you should be OK to try and start. Cheers!
 
#26 ·
So I ran the truck without the chip, it ran great for like 20 minutes so I turned it off and started it again, running fine. Then let it sit for around 5-10 minutes and then started it and it was idling terrible and then stalled out. I also checked to see if there was oil in the hpop whole it was running, and as soon as I listened the bolt it started flowing out immediately.... so would this mean chances are it’s not an oil problem?



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#27 ·
May need to try another CPS and check the wiring harness while you are down there.


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#30 ·
Did you ever get it running and fixed, sounds very similar to what mine was doing a while back. I put a new CPS in and it ran fine all summer but a couple weeks ago I was backing out of the garage, it started to sputter and died. cranked a couple more time and would fire up then die. Now it wont do anything, just cranks, no tach movement, WTS light comes on, just put new CPS in again today (old one had a couple hundred miles tops). Seems like maybe a fuel problem though fuel bowl was full.

On these trucks, if the you empty the fuel bowl then cycle the GP's/ignition, should the fuel bowl refill, or does it not move any fuel until you are cranking it?
 
#31 ·
It won't move fuel until you crank it since it is using a mechanical 2-stage pump that runs off a lobe on the cam. Cheers!!
 
#32 ·
You should have tach movement. Check engine light staying on? Wait to start light working?
Check fuse 22 and unplug the fuel heater.
But if the bowl was empty, you have a fuel supply problem as well.

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#33 ·
Getting no tach movement, the wait to stat light is working and checked the fuse and it was fine. Fuel bowl had fuel in it, haven't checked pressure yet though. Check engine light was coming on like normal, pretty sure going back out like normal, but cant say for sure, will have to double check. Would pulling the fuel bowl heater still be appropriate to try even if fuse is not blown?
 
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