7.3 powerstroke won,t start - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 03:44 PM
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The ICP is on the front top of the drivers side cylinder head. The IPR is located down low where it is hard to get to.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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l unplugged the ICP still won,t start. could my problem be the IPR
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 01:07 AM
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I wouldn't just start shotgunning parts at it without knowing what is causing the no start.

Check the fuel pressure. If it is up to par then you are going to need to get a code reader on it that can read Ford's live data which usually means that you need to get a shop involved or use a phone with Torque App or a laptop with a program to read it such as Forscan or AutoEnginuity.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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l used a actron OBDll pocketScan and it said l had 0 codes
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 02:37 PM
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99% of the code readers out there will not read Fords codes. That is where you need a specific one that will read the codes and live data as the engine is running or cranking over.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Hey bugman l got some help today and while under the hood l notice when he turned the switch on l did,nt hear the fuel pump, so l took the top off the bowl and turned switch on it was hardly nothing so l mashedthe stem in for the fuel the one that looks like a air stem and turned switch and hardly nothing came out.do you think it could be my fuel pump.
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 08:58 PM
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You have a mechanical fuel pump located behind the filter housing almost under the turbo. They didn't go electric until 1999

You need to test the fuel pressure while cranking the engine over. As I mentioned you can use a pencil type air pressure gauge and should be seeing 30ps+ i I believe. Anything below I would suspect a bad fuel pump.

Just wrap the air gauge in a rag or you just might get sprayed with diesel.

I'm going to be gone over the weekend and for a few days next week, hopefully someone else will jump in here if you need more help.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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thank you for all your help, l do believe l am heading in right direction. a young man is coming down monday with a shop scanner, he runs a auto shop hopefully he can tell me something. again thank you.
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 11:36 PM
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Maybe i can help `til Bugman gets back...

CHECK THE FUEL PRESSURE!!!

There...now Bugman doesn't have to yell at you
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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fuel pressure is around 25
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 11:06 AM
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I don't know what the pressure minimum is, but that sounds marginally-low to me.

1. Make certain you are drawing fuel from a tank that is at least half full. If/when the in-tank pickup tube breaks off or cracks, you will run out of fuel at about a quarter-tank. If your tube is cracked, you may be sucking air. Also switch tanks as you may have a tank selector issue.

2. Make certain you have a clean fuel filter. Drain the fuel bowl before you remove the old filter, and never fill the bowl manually. If you get trash on the clean side of the fuel system, you can clog an injector and there will be Hell to pay!

3. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. Inside, there's a wire screen about the size of a nickel. Make sure it is not clogged. If it is clogged, examine the trash closely, as any fuel that passes thru this screen has already been filtered. You may have a rubber fuel line that is breaking down inside and passing trash to the screen.

Also, if there is trash inside the regulator, it could be holding the little plastic ball open slightly. That can drop your pressure by allowing fuel to bipass back into the return line. Diesel o-rings . com has a rebuild kit for the fpr, and they post instructions on their website.

4. Your truck is an antique. You may have a clogged selector valve, clogged fuel lines, and/or clogged pickup tubes.
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Got back to working on my 95f350. I removed fuel bowl cleaned it all new O- rings screens new ipr and icp still no start
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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Also have 26 psi fuel pressure . And no smoke out of tail pipe while cranking
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 09:17 AM
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Are you 100% certain you got all the air purged from the high pressure oil system?

Are your batteries strong and topped-off?

Does your tach move slightly when cranking?

I would unplug the ICP and try to start again. It's a remote chance, but perhaps your new ICP is defective.

I would measure voltage at fuse 22 under the hood, and at the IPR harness - both with key on. Sorry, I don't know what the voltage at the IPR should read, but 22 should be battery voltage.

One of the two wires to the IPR will be a ground (obviously) - try to determine which. If you'll take that ground wire directly to the battery ground, you'll be applying maximum IPR pressure to the injectors. I would try to start it, and I would give it a small shot of ether.
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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 09:22 AM
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I would also install a new cam position sensor, even if you do have tach movement at cranking. The CPS is inexpensive and easy to replace - plus you should always carry a spare with you.
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