Advice or Tricks on Removing Rear Tank - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-06-2009, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Advice or Tricks on Removing Rear Tank

I recently finished replacing the sending unit on the front tank due to the plastic pick up coming apart.

Now I want to drop the rear tank and take a look inside because of what happened to the front sender.

I have used the "search" feature on this sight and found several threads.

Does anyone have any input on removing the rear tank ?? I dont want to pull the bed off at this time.

I have looked and it seems like the hardest part is going to be disconnecting the filler hose ???

Thankyou.

1996 F250 XLT, Auto, 2WD, Extended Cab. Long Bed, 4.10 Gears.
Stock Except Tymar Intake.
Sticker Price $29,353.00.
Build Date 12/95.
61,000 miles.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-07-2009, 01:17 AM
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There's nothing too tricky about removing the rear tank that you wouldn't have encountered in dropping the front tank. It's a little tight getting the seams of the tank to drop down between the lower flanges of the frame, but it can be accomplished by tilting the tank just so. As for the filler neck, it's kind of a tight reach if you have big hands, but a 5/16" socket on a swivel with a 12" extension will reach the band clamp without too much difficulty.

1997 F350 CC DRW E4OD POS. electric fuel, DIY6637, Beans Stage I. 200k and counting.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-09-2009, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RD97 View Post
There's nothing too tricky about removing the rear tank that you wouldn't have encountered in dropping the front tank. It's a little tight getting the seams of the tank to drop down between the lower flanges of the frame, but it can be accomplished by tilting the tank just so. As for the filler neck, it's kind of a tight reach if you have big hands, but a 5/16" socket on a swivel with a 12" extension will reach the band clamp without too much difficulty.
If you have a hitch, is possible that you need to remove it also.

96 F250, PSD, XLT, SC, SB, E40D, 2WD, 3.55, 142K.
DIY air intake and exhaust brake. Tymar Hypermax DP 3-3.5" ceramic coated; Tymar HPX; GPR switch; upgraded headlight harness; Isspro gauges; 14.7K cOOns mod; shim FPR; tranny cooler; CCV mod.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-09-2009, 08:34 PM
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skid plates are all that is holding it up, don't expect straps after you drop the plates!

1995 F-250 PSD 4X4 EXTRACAB LONG BOX AUTO
TYMAR FILTER, 4" MBRP STAINLESS TURBO TO TAIL
EOT MOD FOR COLD STARTS
CUSTOM RUNNING BOARDS
SD STARTER
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-09-2009, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice. I was able to drop the tank Sunday.

Definately not easy as the front tank, actually it was a P.I.T.A.

I found nothing wrong with the sender but install the new one.

Glad that is over with, now have piece of mind with both tanks.

1996 F250 XLT, Auto, 2WD, Extended Cab. Long Bed, 4.10 Gears.
Stock Except Tymar Intake.
Sticker Price $29,353.00.
Build Date 12/95.
61,000 miles.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obs96psd View Post
Thanks for the advice. I was able to drop the tank Sunday.

Definately not easy as the front tank, actually it was a P.I.T.A.

I found nothing wrong with the sender but install the new one.

Glad that is over with, now have piece of mind with both tanks.
Shoulda done the filler neck mod while you were in there and had the tanks down. It really makes a big difference when filling up these OBS trucks.

96 F350 4x4 XLT 7.3 59,428 orig miles, Stage I's, Adrenaline, IDM, gutted EBPV, Tymar intake, Banks intercooler, downpipe, gauges, TW 4 position chip, John Wood Towmaster, Ford 08 diff cover, Oil gauge mod, Electric fuel conversion, RSK, OH console, Durn cat done run off an I can't find it.

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