another oil pan change...what else should i change - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-05-2009, 10:30 PM
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I'm fixing to pull the engine on spring break. I want to avoid cutting and welding...so pulling the engine without the tranny is the easiest? Also, what must I remove to take the engine out? Before I start disconnecting lines and wires I thought it would be worth it to ask...What you guys think? How did yall do it?


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96 F-250 2wd. SRW, CC, 176 K on tha clock
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Performance:
4in. Flo-Pro exhaust, Tymar intake, AMSOIL synthetic motor oil, Fleetguard CC2820 coolant, 203* Thermostat, HPX mod., AC mod., CCV mod., EBPV gutted, Pedestal Modded, Tymar coolant filter kit, CPRx Custom Built fuel system by Bob Riley

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-06-2009, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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ROGRRR- the motor is already out.
janssen-here is a list of what i took off not in any order just what i remember removing
headlights
grill
radiator support
radiator
power steering lines
heater-core lines
lines to radiator from tranny
motor mounts (2 bottom bolts on each side)
exhaust
starter(for clearance)
oil filter(for clearance)
battery trays(to get to bolts)
fuel lines(need special tool)
dipstick tube for tranny(its bolted to engine block)
big ground going to lower passenger side of engine block
wires from starter selinoid
some small vac.lines and some small ground straps
bolts that hold tranny to block

well probably more im forgetting right now.I also took off fenders but thats because i have new ones to put on.

Have fun its a pain.

swivel sockets,extensions,lots of metric sockets deep and shallow,tool for fuel lines, I used a 3 foot extension to get top tranny bolts.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-06-2009, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janssen_nicholas View Post
I'm fixing to pull the engine on spring break. I want to avoid cutting and welding...so pulling the engine without the tranny is the easiest? Also, what must I remove to take the engine out? Before I start disconnecting lines and wires I thought it would be worth it to ask...What you guys think? How did yall do it?
DzlJim has a good writeup: I

1997 F350 CC DRW E4OD POS. electric fuel, DIY6637, Beans Stage I. 200k and counting.

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-06-2009, 10:03 AM
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I dont' know about adding things to the motor,but as far as the paint goes...I'd use nothing but the Por-15...look at there website @ por15.com...not cheap though...lol

1999 Ford F-250 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel
4X4 automatic...and stock everything..
311,000miles and climbing
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-06-2009, 12:33 PM
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I used RM epoxy primer. Easy to apply, given you have a compressor and a spray gun. It holds up very well. I use it as a base over bare metal when doing body work on the ol' Ford's. I sprayed my brand new gastanks with it before putting them on and its been 4 years now and no sign of rust. I remember dad hardly ever getting 3 yrs out of a tank before it'd rot out. I've found POR15 hard to store. I like to get an old pickle jar and transfer it into that right away, then when I'm done I take the argon line off of my mig welder and spray it into the jar as im screwing the lid on. This gets rid of any air in the jar. Then I put the jar into a bag and sealed it up tight. I only do this because the first can i ever bought i didnt store it properly and the top 3/4'' was rock hard and the rest was garbage. Here are a couple pictures of the epoxy on the oil pan and oil cooler.
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1986 F-250 Supercab 2wd 6.9l T-19B 4 speed 200,000 kms (125000 miles) College teacher dropped it off at my house to have for FREE !
1990 F-350 XLT Lariat CC 4x4 SRW 7.3l, E4OD (Now ZF5 with Luk SMF), 3.55, 281000 kms (175000 miles) Paid $1300 01/05
1995 F-250 XL Supercab 4x4 7.3PSD ZF5 (Luk clutch/SMF) 3.55 265000 kms (164000 miles) Paid $6200 10/08
2005 E-150 XL 4.6l V8 60000 kms (37000 miles) Paid $15000 09/07
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