Break-in Procedure?? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Question Break-in Procedure??

Hello PS enthusiasts!

I have a fairly simple question to ask but don't know if it is necessary or not. I am currently rebuilding my 96 7.3L with 257K miles from a failed piston, #5, which came apart in one of the ring grooves w/o breaking any rings. Luckily, I caught it before it scored the cylinder. I have bored the block 0.020 over, replacing all pistons, rings, main and rod bearings, polished the crankshaft, new seals all around, new reman heads from Ford (old ones had bad carbon pits on the exhaust valves), new oil pump (low pressure), and new injectors from Pensacola Diesel. I am not sure whether I need to follow a break-in procedure for the motor or not? Also, what would be a typical break-in procedure if I do need to follow one?

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

96' F-250 4X4 Supercab 7.3L stock on 37x12.50 goodyear wrangler mt military tires, 5 spd, 4" straight piped, 6" suspension lift, Dana 60 conversion, 4.10 gears, custom bumpers, 12000 lbs. Badlands winch

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 09:10 AM
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Yes, I'd break it in. No excessive idling, no bursts of high RPM on a cold engine, but as the run time adds up you can run up to higher RPM's more frequently, followed by coasting back to normal speed and cooling off, no long distance constant speed drives,

You have new pistons running in freshly machined bores, and new main/rod bearings running on a fresh crankshaft, I'd run 1000-1200 miles on the first oil change, then change oil/filter, then run your typical 3000-5000 miles intervals.

Denny
'96 F-250 Reg. Cab 4X4 5-sp POWERSTROKE
298,500 mi & NO Problems, LUK Clutch
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 02:59 PM
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With the cylinders bored out, you should keep an extra close eye on the anti-cavitation additive in your coolant.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-01-2014, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
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What does the anti-cavitation additive do that I have to watch for?

96' F-250 4X4 Supercab 7.3L stock on 37x12.50 goodyear wrangler mt military tires, 5 spd, 4" straight piped, 6" suspension lift, Dana 60 conversion, 4.10 gears, custom bumpers, 12000 lbs. Badlands winch
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-01-2014, 02:30 PM
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Cavitation in a 7.3L PSD is where the cylinder walls actually move in & out due to the force of the compresssion pressure as the engine runs. A thinnner cyl. wall will deflect mre than a thicker cyl wall. The cavitation, meaning bubbling of the hot coolant from low pressure but high temp areas occurs from a single point where the temp is the highest and pressure the lowest, and can erode right through the cylinder wall. The supplimental coolant additive has chemicals that coat the cylinders and erodes instead of the iron. You really can't "Inspect" how they're working, just buy some test strips and check the concentration of the SCA's regularly to make sure they're strong enough.

Denny
'96 F-250 Reg. Cab 4X4 5-sp POWERSTROKE
298,500 mi & NO Problems, LUK Clutch
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