Clutch fan vs. straight fan - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #1 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-26-2016, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch fan vs. straight fan

I have been having problems with my transmission overheating on a 96 F350 7.3. Was pointed too a possible bad clutch fan. Can this be replaced with a straight fan? Good or bad idea?

Thank You
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post #2 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-26-2016, 01:54 PM
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A properly functioning clutch fan is typically a better option than a straight fan...thats why you see clutch type fans since the late 80's.
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post #3 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-26-2016, 02:22 PM
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What conditions are you seeing the over heating? Just normal driving or towing? Do you have a larger external transmission cooler on your truck?

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #4 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-26-2016, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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I have two extra trans coolers (one was already mounted in front behind the grill and I added one just next too it opposite side). It has overheated on me twice, once was when I was trying to get a 40' travel trailer in a tight spot and the next was back in august, went too Clearwater Beach which is 30 miles one way, quite a bit of stop n go, some steady and it overheated on the way back. But the engine temp showed normal.
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post #5 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-26-2016, 07:10 PM
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Out of curiousity, what temps are you getting when your trans is overheating?

Also, I am going to send you a PM about fishing in your area...do you fish?


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
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post #6 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by internetselect View Post
...it overheated on the way back. But the engine temp showed normal.
Does that mean you have a separate transmission temperature gauge? What kind, and who installed it? Have you checked to make sure it's working? Have you checked ATF flow through the coolers? Is there an external filter? How old is the fluid & each filter? What brand & type is the fluid?


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post #7 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 12:58 AM
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what temps is the trans seeing?

did you remove the stock cooler or are you now running 3 trans coolers, that's too much restriction. I would run one single large cooler like the one from the 6.0 trucks.

you will also have to check flow and make sure the bypass isnt stuck.

also the fan is for cooling the engine down not the trans so changing the fan clutch wont help. these trucks have a very robust cooling system for the engine so they rarely overheat.
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post #8 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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wow lots of questions...ok...not sure of temps, only have factory gauge and no I dont fish. Do not have a separate trans temp gauge..dont know which is the right one to get nor where or how to install one. No external filter, new fluid, would have to go out to truck for brand and type (I want to say dex/merc IV but dont hold me to that yet) I have the original in radiator cooler plus two externals..if anyone has the information for a proper single larger one please let me know. What is the proper procedure on checking the bypass and/or flow? Thank You
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post #9 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 09:53 AM
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How do you know it's overheating?
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post #10 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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why else would the fluid pour out from between the engine and trans and continue to do so until it cools down and then would take fluid without leaking back out again? I have no leak issues whatsoever underneath it is dry normally.
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post #11 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by internetselect View Post
What is the proper procedure on checking the bypass and/or flow? Thank You
For checking the flow, here's some information from Mark Kovalsky (former Ford Automatic Transmission Engineer):
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
Get two buckets and a helper.
Warm up the engine and transmission. Disconnect the line where it attaches to the rear of the transmission. Put the line in one bucket. Have your helper start the truck. Leave it in park and the engine at idle. Once the flow is steady move the line to the second bucket for exactly 15 seconds then put it back in the first bucket and shut the engine off. If there is at least a quart in the second bucket it passes.
Cheers!
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97 F250 SC 4x4 (CA model), E4OD, 4.10 LS,
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, Ext Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD: 94 F350 CC DRW, 5 Speed, SBC Con-O,
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post #12 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thank You Patrick Feeley for the assistance, seems like a simple task to check. Now to find shallow enough buckets to fit underneath and will post the outcome as soon as I have the answer.
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post #13 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 10:45 AM
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Does anyone know if the ScanGaugeII works on the 1996 trucks?

That might be an inexpensive option for the OP to monitor TFT (Trans Fluid Temp) when he tows his trailer in the future.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
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NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #14 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by internetselect View Post
why else would the fluid pour out from between the engine and trans and continue to do so until it cools down and then would take fluid without leaking back out again? I have no leak issues whatsoever underneath it is dry normally.
The front seal on the trans leaking when hot is a common issue. The fluid will stop leaking when the seal cools off. After enough of these cycles, the seal will fail. There is a viton replacement seal available that will hold up better.
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Early '99 F250(02-98) 192,000mi,2wd,auto,Extra cab longbed,Bak Flip tonneau cover,AIS,4" turbo back exhaust,ITP regulated fuel return,SS HPX line,203 Tstat,Evans coolant,Isspro EV2 gauges trans temp,boost,EGT,fuel pressure,John Wood HD 4R100,6.0 cooler,DP Tuner F5 chip,Terminator Scangauge

1989 F250 4x4 7.3 IDI w Banks Sidewinder turbo, 149,000 mi, Regular cab, E4OD, 8600 GVWR, 4.10 LS, Isspro EV2 gauges EGT, Trans temp, Coolant temp, Oil press, Boost press
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post #15 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 11:39 AM
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Here is a link on how and where to install gauges on a 94-97 truck. It can be as simple as just one such as the transmission temperature to 3 or 4 gauges. The instructions for the transmission is about half way down and is quite simple.
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