Fuel Filter (bowl) Housing Weep hole? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-28-2013, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel Filter (bowl) Housing Weep hole?

I had been working on the location of the leak. After reading many posts, I had heard of weep hole on the fuel bowl.

Turned out on this case, the source of the fuel leak is on the weep hole of the fuel bowl. Of course, I am not too happy about it.

Just wonder what is the purpose of having weep hole on the fuel bowl?

I can understand why have weep hole on the fuel pump and water pump. Only I don't understand why there is one on the fuel bowl. There is no moving part in that area. Anyone can chime on this?

Also, I rather to plug it than spend $300 bucks on the bowl itself. Heard one put J-B Weld on it and work fine. I rather not go that way. I found out that it is not a hole at straight up but at 45 angle direction. Not easy job to do tap it and screw it. I am pretty sure that fuel bowl is made out of aluminum.

Any idea or link for this leak fix?

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'95 F-350 XLT PSD, CC, 2WD, Garrett Turbo AR 1.1, 5spd ZF tranny, LUK, 4.10 Limited Slip, just added Dual Arm Tenisoner. Just added my ol' vacuum gauge to monitor my vacuum pump.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-28-2013, 02:03 PM
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I have never heard of a weep hole in the filter housing. I have heard of them developing leaks in the bottom of them due to the fact that they are made of aluminum and if there is water in the bottom that isn't drained it will eat a hole in them. The only two solutions that I have heard of is to either replace it or take it out and get it nice and clean. Then take some JB Weld and coat the inside bottom with it.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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This post was overdued for the result.

I got it fixed. Sure enough, there is no weep hole at all as I decided to pull it out for once and all.

I was surprised to see the hole at the bottom. Water did this damage? Damn...

What I decided to do is to plug it with a bolt and nut and viton o-ring. I tapped into the hole to accept the bolt. I put the viton o-ring on the bolt before screw it into the bottom of the bowl. I tightened it with a nut inside the bowl. It works and the leak stopped.

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'95 F-350 XLT PSD, CC, 2WD, Garrett Turbo AR 1.1, 5spd ZF tranny, LUK, 4.10 Limited Slip, just added Dual Arm Tenisoner. Just added my ol' vacuum gauge to monitor my vacuum pump.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-21-2014, 03:43 AM Thread Starter
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It works for a while. It starts to leak once again.

Have anyone done aluminum brazing on the fuel housing before? I am considering this route.

Bluenavigator

'95 F-350 XLT PSD, CC, 2WD, Garrett Turbo AR 1.1, 5spd ZF tranny, LUK, 4.10 Limited Slip, just added Dual Arm Tenisoner. Just added my ol' vacuum gauge to monitor my vacuum pump.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-21-2014, 10:04 AM
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What is the cost of a new fuel bowl? I use Seal All. Its about $7 for a large tube, its completely compatible with all petroleum products, and I've used it on gas tanks (while leaking, wet and under the pressure of gravity - full of fuel hole mid tank).

96 FORD SUPERCAB, 5"LIFT, 315 BFG M/T'S, 10 000LB WARN WINCH, BUSH BUMPER, GUTTED EBPV, CUSTOM AIR INTAKE, OPEN EXHAUST AFTER DOWNPIPE, UPGRADED IDM, WAITIN FOR $$ FOR MORE MODS.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-21-2014, 10:28 AM
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You are looking at $350+ for a new bowl from Diesel O Rings.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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I had tried aluminum brazing on the fuel housing. It is one tough alloy. Not sure if it is possible to do this. I had tried it twice and the aluminum brazing rod won't start to melt on the housing at all. Seem that it would take a while to start brazing.

I am not sure how thick it is on the bottom part of the housing. Any idea?

Bluenavigator

'95 F-350 XLT PSD, CC, 2WD, Garrett Turbo AR 1.1, 5spd ZF tranny, LUK, 4.10 Limited Slip, just added Dual Arm Tenisoner. Just added my ol' vacuum gauge to monitor my vacuum pump.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 05:35 PM
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Google the Tightwad Mod. Or go electric.
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97 F250 4 door shortbed, E4OD
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