Fuel pump leaking badly - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel pump leaking badly

I just left my truck at the mechanic to find a fuel leak that was getting bad. They just called back and said the fuel pump was the cause. I am going to have to have them do it as my physical condition and lack of a place keeps me from doing the work myself. My question to the forum is..how many labor hours are usually charged for doing the job on the truck in my signature?

Thanks for any info given,
Dan

'97 F250HD XLT SuperCab 4WD,Purchased 02/01/05 @ 143,000 mi,(02/23/18 @ 230,000 mi) 7.3L PowerStroke @225hp (out of Cal), Box code MME7 / Cal. code F7TF-RH, 4.10 LS, Automatic w/Mobil 1 Synthetic, Long bed, TOYO Open Country H/T LT265/75R16 E M&S (3415#@80psi),
04/16/05-3" Down pipe installed from DPP,Dieselsite Boost,Trany Temp & Pyro w/A-Pillar, Duralite #6637 aircleaner, Fomotovalve
07/22/05-Installed Banks Techni-cooler
Cat scaled at 7860 w/me & wife, full tanks & toolbox in back.
4-position TWILDMAN Chip
Brakesmart Control
(230,000 mi as of 02/23/18 )
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 06:16 AM
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2 hours wouldn't surprise me. Maybe more. Its not a horrible job, but it's not fun either.
AaronSEIA

My Truck:

97 F250 4 door shortbed, E4OD
DIY intake
Kingpin Dana 60
otherwise stock
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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This place, who I have always trusted is quoting me around $1000 in labor alone.

Dan

'97 F250HD XLT SuperCab 4WD,Purchased 02/01/05 @ 143,000 mi,(02/23/18 @ 230,000 mi) 7.3L PowerStroke @225hp (out of Cal), Box code MME7 / Cal. code F7TF-RH, 4.10 LS, Automatic w/Mobil 1 Synthetic, Long bed, TOYO Open Country H/T LT265/75R16 E M&S (3415#@80psi),
04/16/05-3" Down pipe installed from DPP,Dieselsite Boost,Trany Temp & Pyro w/A-Pillar, Duralite #6637 aircleaner, Fomotovalve
07/22/05-Installed Banks Techni-cooler
Cat scaled at 7860 w/me & wife, full tanks & toolbox in back.
4-position TWILDMAN Chip
Brakesmart Control
(230,000 mi as of 02/23/18 )
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 08:39 AM
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According to the book you are also suppose to pull the turbo and the filter housing. For a shade tree mechanic neither have to be pulled.

I am also to the point that on certain items I either can't do or just don't want to do it myself. So when I take it to a mechanic I just bite down hard on the bullet and pay him what he wants.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 12:36 PM
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It has ben a few years but my buddy has his 96 7.3 fuel pump go bad. If I remember right our local shop also pulled the turbo. I took the turbo off my 96 3 times to fix a leak and I can tell you it is a major pain in the butt!! To get on or off. I can do a 99 -2003 turbo in 1/4 of the time it takes to do a 96. So sounds about right. If the turbo is pulled.
DENNY

1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 02:09 PM
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I had pulled the fuel pump couple times. It isn't that bad. The only part that is pain in the rear, is to disconnect the banjo in the back of the fuel pump. I believe that it is 32mm closed socket wrench that I had to use. Turbo can be pulled as optional. I chose not to do that. Just take a a bit longer to disconnect the banjo that way. Two hours would do the whole job. If it is bad leak, it is the weep hole, on the fuel pump, that opened.

Bluenavigator

'95 F-350 XLT PSD, CC, 2WD, Garrett Turbo AR 1.1, 5spd ZF tranny, LUK, 4.10 Limited Slip, just added Dual Arm Tenisoner. Just added my ol' vacuum gauge to monitor my vacuum pump.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies!

Dan

'97 F250HD XLT SuperCab 4WD,Purchased 02/01/05 @ 143,000 mi,(02/23/18 @ 230,000 mi) 7.3L PowerStroke @225hp (out of Cal), Box code MME7 / Cal. code F7TF-RH, 4.10 LS, Automatic w/Mobil 1 Synthetic, Long bed, TOYO Open Country H/T LT265/75R16 E M&S (3415#@80psi),
04/16/05-3" Down pipe installed from DPP,Dieselsite Boost,Trany Temp & Pyro w/A-Pillar, Duralite #6637 aircleaner, Fomotovalve
07/22/05-Installed Banks Techni-cooler
Cat scaled at 7860 w/me & wife, full tanks & toolbox in back.
4-position TWILDMAN Chip
Brakesmart Control
(230,000 mi as of 02/23/18 )
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 05:25 AM
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Just a quick clarification/ question...Is the fuel pump that you have to fix located in the valley area between the cylinders. I believe I have a leak coming from that area(97 F350)....does fixing it involve replacing o rings and seals in the fuel bowl unit, and is the pump tucked in that spot as well?
Thanks!
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 10:20 AM
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Yes, the fuel pump is located in the back of the valley almost under the turbo.

For fixing it owners at times will remove the filter housing to get more room to work and if you pull the housing it is good to go through it and replace some O rings just because it is out. There are also a couple of hoses from the pump to the filter housing that also need to be replaced.

The factory manual will tell you to remove the turbo to remove the pump and if you do remove the turbo then there are O ring seals that need to be replaced on the turbo but a lot just take a 1 1/4" wrench and bend it so that they can loosen the banjo bolt on the fuel pump to get it out leaving the turbo alone.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluenavigator View Post
I had pulled the fuel pump couple times. It isn't that bad. The only part that is pain in the rear, is to disconnect the banjo in the back of the fuel pump. I believe that it is 32mm closed socket wrench that I had to use. Turbo can be pulled as optional. I chose not to do that. Just take a a bit longer to disconnect the banjo that way. Two hours would do the whole job. If it is bad leak, it is the weep hole, on the fuel pump, that opened.

There's no way I could get it done in two hours - but then I don't have a true mechanics shop or even the tools.

If a man were to remove the turbo, I would suggest doing it all: up pipes, eg valve, rebuild the turbo, replace all the fuel lines (including the rubber lines from the fuel rail to the fuel bowl). Count on all of the exhaust nuts/bolts to be seized, and replacing the babies butt.

While that deep into it, I would also rebuild the IPR, replace the high pressure oil lines, and all the o-rings on the oil rails.

Then I could sleep better at night, knowing I'd worked over just about everything in the valley, and replaced all the 20+ year-old rubber.

A two day project for me , and at a parts cost of at least $1200.

Last edited by Kimber1911; 01-25-2019 at 12:08 PM.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugman View Post
Yes, the fuel pump is located in the back of the valley almost under the turbo.

For fixing it owners at times will remove the filter housing to get more room to work and if you pull the housing it is good to go through it and replace some O rings just because it is out. There are also a couple of hoses from the pump to the filter housing that also need to be replaced.

The factory manual will tell you to remove the turbo to remove the pump and if you do remove the turbo then there are O ring seals that need to be replaced on the turbo but a lot just take a 1 1/4" wrench and bend it so that they can loosen the banjo bolt on the fuel pump to get it out leaving the turbo alone.
thanks bugman
Thats kind of what I thought...I haven't determined if its my fuel pump or the bowl/filter housing...I haven't had a chance to get that truck in the shop yet...im pretty sure i can get it done with out pulling the turbo. I have a long list of things that need to happen on my 97...I just need to find the time and ambition..Haha
Thanks!
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 02:15 PM
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Fuel Pump R/R

I've done it so much on three different obs and have little fingers that my dad and I've have gotten it done once in right around 2 hours, but we were moving; usually up to three hours usually. First time, it took a while but built confidence and offered tons of education on the engine itself. Awesome to have second hand if possible for handing tools, keeping up with bolts, etc., and garages usually charge a six hour minimum, which they run about 60 to 85 per hour for diesels, and I've seen them quote usually around 600 to 750 for this job. Many sites like dieselorings sell the the hoses pre packaged, solid new clamps, the pump, banjo washers, etc., for the job, and you can usually come out way better than paying someone else. Given, if healthy and able. Still, It can be frustrating, but with youtube, forums help, etc., it's totally feasible.
Don't pull the turbo; do what bugman said; use the wrench. I don't even have one bent, just a giant one that I stick in there and use patience. Once broken, it's a matter of using your fingers and small little turns. The hardest part is putting that banjo back in there and lining up both washers, but it can be done, and the experience prepares you for future work. I recommend getting some type of rubber mat and laying it over the engine to rest on. If you want to move quick, pull the air intake to the turbo, take an razor knife and cut hoses between the hard lines, then just unhook the wiring, loosing the bolts holding the bowl in, and pull it completely out and off; its up to you to pull the regulator wit it or leave it hanging, but it's a good idea to pull it and clean the screen and check out the inside of the bowl. The fuel pump is left, and this leaves more room to work on that banjo, so loosen it up, and pull the bolts on the pump. Turn the engine over by hand until it pushes the pump up; this allows you to get under the pump with a pair of needle nose channel locks, a small pair, and grab that tippet in the bottom of the pump; this is the biggest part so you don't loose it in there, but be confident, you can do it, and the install goes in reverse and moves quick, but remember that the pump needs to be in and bolted when you slide the bowl back in because you want to line those hoses up as you drop it in. You can clean, alter, etc., your drain line too; it connects to a hard line just out from the bowl base toward the fan direction.

Removing the whole bowl setup allows for maintenance and ease of getting to pump without pulling turbo. I hate pulling the turbo, regardless of under pedestal or top of pedestal bolts.
bests and keep us posted.
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