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I bought a 7.3L! '1996 F250 with 211k miles

13K views 74 replies 11 participants last post by  bugman 
#1 · (Edited)
Thanks to anyone that gave me some guidance while I was searching. I am hoping I did alright with this choice, although I am pretty terrified.


I was able to get it for $7500 (he was asking 8k)
1996 F-250 xlt with 211k original miles, second owner.
7.3L Powerstroke - She's basically bone stock, which is what I was searching for.
4x4 with auto transmission (was rebuilt at 170k miles, he provided me with receipts.
Engine compartment is pretty clean
Interior is in pretty good shape as well.
Everything seems to work as it should.

The only cons I have found so far:
- small oil leak, need to try and track that down this week.
- frame rust? I attached a photo of it to get your guys opinion as well.. looks like its pretty minimal surface rust, but i've never seen frame rust in my life growing up in Phoenix, so it startled me.
- Gas pedal takes a little bit of pressure before it actually responds, this may just be that i'm not used to driving a giant truck. I currently drive a 2003 tacoma 4x4. I'm sure i'll get used to it.

Other than that, I am pretty happy with her so far...

I've attached some photos. I will take more photos of the interior tonight, but its in really great shape in my opinion.
 
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#3 ·
Hi! DAH7 The truck looks clean the rust appears to be only surface not eaten all the way thru which would worry me. Being in Phx. you should be able to find a local body shop that has an out door lift that can spray rust sealer and protector underneath. I had a local shop up here in Flag do that for my old 75 chevy that I restored. Where do you see the oil at?
 
#4 ·
Mule, thanks buddy! The body is a little beat up and you can tell where its been re painted after some fender benders, but the interior is still in great shape and the motor looked very clean and un disturbed. Having the frame sprayed down sounds like a good idea. Mind if I ask how much that cost you?

The oil leak seems to be coming from the very front of the pan or from the seal behind the lower pulley. I believe that would be the crankshaft pulley, correct? No idea what something like this would cost to repair, but it seems to be a slow leak for now, which is good. I'd like to repair it, but can't afford too much right now since I just purchased the truck...
 
#5 ·
My local shop had charged me an extra $300 to do underside but also, understand that they had done a complete repaint as well as spray in bed liner so, I'm sure they gave me a reduced rate. Yes, that sounds like crank seal but, very unusual I personally have not met anyone that has had to replace that seal even with mine having almost a million miles it is still dry. Best thing would be to clean the area where you think it is coming from and just watch it. The most common leaks on these trucks are down in the valley under your toilet seat a.k.a the black cover or the engine oil cooler which is on the driverside down by the oil pan and it is cylindrical in shape. Just checking have you checked your last post where I left you my name and number in case you wanted to talk about these trucks?
 
#7 ·
I suppose the rust is something I could address later. I think locating the oil leak would be a better use of my time and money. Since I just brought the truck home on sunday, I'll wait a few days and see how much oil is actually dripping out of the truck. I changed the oil yesterday with Delo 400 (had no idea how expensive diesel oil changes were!)

I saw you left me your phone number, thanks for doin that, i'm sure i'll give you a call sometime when I have questions.
 
#6 ·
I would not worry about the rust on the frame. That is basically cosmetic and trying to do some quick spray on sealer over the rust will only cause problems down the road. Your frame will flex and crack most any paint they put on it, moisture will get under the paint and speed the rusting process. It will take another 40 or more years before the rust become a real issue. Go up North to snow/salt country and they would call that frame "like new". I think you got a great deal on the truck. When you get a chance flush the coolant and fluids if not done recently, that is a much better use of your money.
DENNY
 
#8 ·
do these truck need some sort of additive in the coolant to prevent cavitation? I remember reading something along those lines when I was researching various trucks.

A coolant flush makes sense, what other fluids would you recommend flushing.. they probably haven't been done in 10 years realistically. thanks man!
 
#9 ·
Yes. Do a search on coolant flush. I would run green coolant and check yearly. Also consider a coolant filter when time and money allows. My trick for finding a leak is to spray down the area with oil eater and wash with hot water from hose if possible. Usually have to do it a few times to figure out how to get it all clean. Once clean check daily with a good light to fine the leak. I have done a front seal, about 6 hours with the right tools if I remember right. I would consider pulling radiator at the same time to make it easier, should be some good u-tube stuff on it.
DENNY
 
#10 ·
I have heard people mention the term "blow by" alot when talking about diesel motors. I did a quick search and found that one way to test for blow by is to unscrew the oil fill cap all the way and leave it resting in place while the truck idles. So, I did this yesterday after driving home from work, and the cap didn't move a bit. No bouncing around at all, the cap just sat there in place while the truck idled. Did I do this correctly? If so, it sounds like the result was good, correct?

When the oil fill cap is removed completely, a very faint smoke comes out. However, I saw a video that showed what it should look like, and mine matched that almost exactly. I am feeling a little les scared about my purchase now!
 
#11 ·
You did it correctly. I checked mine about 4 months ago same result no movement on upside down oil cap just a little faint smoke. It sounds like you got a pretty solid motor just keep up on the maintenance. The one thing that I would do unless that you know it has been done is do a full service i.e. change all fluids tranny, diffs, engine oil, coolant. Have you located the possible oil leak yet? themule
 
#13 ·
Thanks for the confirmation Mule. Its raining pretty good down here right now, so I wont be able to get out and look at it until tomorrow. I'll snap a photo and post it on here.

Another thing that I have noticed after driving it for a couple of days is the gas pedal is a bit strange. For example, when starting off from a complete stop, I have to apply a good bit of pressure to the gas pedal before it starts to react... and sometimes when it does finally get fuel, the RPM's jump a little bit and it takes off kind of quickly... Is this something that is common with these trucks? I don't like to smash on the gas when I drive, and this kind of makes it difficult not to do so.
 
#14 ·
Yeah, it looks like it snowed up here yesterday but, it was a lot of hail then rain. It could be the (TPS) Throttle position switch acting up which is located on the gas pedal I have read that you can replace just the switch which is riveted on I believe and they say that you have to make sure it gets installed in the exact same position but, I'm not sure. I visited a junk yard that had a 95-97 truck and I pulled the whole gas pedal assembly off which is held in with 2 bolts very easy to remove 3-5min. job I keep it as a spare I gave $15 for it. My switch acted up 5-7 yrs. ago and I went to a local parts store bought a can of electrical contact cleaner pushed in on the switch sprayed it inside worked the switch a few times and sprayed it again and have not had a problem since. I would try that first then if your still not happy you could search ebay or a junk yard for a replacement pedal assy. I'm not sure if they sell them new anymore. Or you can just live with it worst case scenario is if the switch fails you will have no throttle response. I think the surge of power that you are feeling is the turbo kicking in. themule
 
#15 ·
Mule I don't think its the turbo kicking in, but I certainly could be wrong. The issue does not seem to be with the motor, the issues feels like it's in the pedal assembly itself. Like the sensors are not reading small pedal movements... the sensors are only picking up the throttle after i've pressed it 1/5th of the way down. It's very odd. Perhaps a new pedal assembly would solve it? Maybe the best way to describe it is that it won't allow me to very gently ease on the throttle. I have to press the pedal quite a ways, and then it jumps a bit. There is no in between, its eaither on or off... if that makes sense....
 
#16 ·
Yeah, it makes sense try spraying contact cleaner 1st before switching out the pedal assy. I just did a search you can buy a new pedal assy. but,they are $400 + I would get one from junk yard before buying it new as long as they don't want the as much as a new one. I bought my spare pedal assy. back in 2009 for like 15-$20 at a junk yard.
 
#17 ·
I assume that you plan on keeping this truck for a long time. I would recommend investing in an AutoEnginuity with the ford enhanced package which will allow you to fully diagnose any issues with your truck. It can read any codes and clear them as well also, it can read live data so you can see what the sensors are reading as well as oil pressure etc. also, it can do an injector buzz test and cylinder contribution test basically, it can do anything a dealer can do. Just so, you know your local auto part stores cannot read diagnostic codes on these fords only a dealer and or a shop that has the right scanner. The AutoEnginuity will be a great investment about $350 it will save you from throwing money at parts trying to fix a problem. Even if you don't do the work yourself you will at least save the diagnostic fee that shops charge which can be 50-$100. themule
 
#18 ·
Something that I just read in another post is a bad or failing (CPS) Cam Position Sensor mimicked a faulty Throttle Position Sensor for this guy. If spraying the contact cleaner doesn't help I would try replacing the CPS before the pedal assy. The CPS can cause all kinds of driveability issues as well as a no start. They are inexpensive $30 and a great thing to keep your glove box if you are at all mechanically inclined it is easy to replace 1 bolt holding it and it is located at your crank you will see the plug with 2 or 3 wires I don't remember it's been so long since I have had to replace mine by the way I keep a couple spares.
 
#20 ·
So I removed the IVS from the pedal assembly and mounted it under the dash. Now I start the truck, click the IVS once with my hand and I'm off. Driveability has improved 10X. I have way more throttle control now and I feel like the tranny is even shifting smoother. I may just leave te thing mounted under the dash... just come up with a more permanent mounting solution, since right now I'm using a binder clip :grin2:

on a side note, I just got through my first tank of fuel and looks like I got about 17-18 mpg... all basically city driving as well. seems decent to me for a truck with this much towing capability!
 
#19 · (Edited)
One note of caution about spraying contact cleaner or brake cleaner.
I had a TPS that had dead spots on a 2002.
After replacement I took the old one apart and inspected it. I posted photos back around March of 2017.

The results of my inspection were that solvents weaken the adhesive which hold the small metallic particles in place which conduct current. They become more easily scraped off and the reason for dead spots is this very thing.

I would discourage spraying any type of solvent internally in the 2002 TPS assembly.
 
#21 ·
I'm glad you got the throttle response figured out so, the switch is no longer on the pedal? I would have thought that it would have to remain on the pedal so, that it knows how hard your pushing on the go pedal. Do you know what gears are in your truck? Your mileage is about what I got when my truck was stock but, it's still not bad when you consider the weight. On mine I have 4:10's for me the sweet spot is 62mph about 2000-2050 rpm I can pretty consistently get 20.4-22.3mpg on the highway. I recently, went to Durango, Co. for 2 weeks and pulled my 7'x12' enclosed trailer with my Harley and all camping gear and anything else, that I thought I would need. Lol I got 17.4 going there at 62mph and coming home of course I was in a hurry to get home and I set my cruise at 70 and got 13.3mpg. With my gears it makes a big difference on fuel mileage depending how fast I go. themule
Mule, there are 2 different sensors on the pedal assembly. The TPS (throttle positioning sensor) and IVS (idle validation switch). The IVS is the one that I moved.

I have no idea what gears are in my truck... is there some way I can tell? I think when I am doing about 60mph my RPM's are just under 2,000. I will pay attention on my way home today. Tires and wheels are the stock size as far as I can tell.
 
#22 ·
I got you... Learn something new everyday... What exactly does the IVS do? and I wonder how did it change your throttle response by moving it? If its under 2000rpm you probably have 3.73's if it is 2000 I would say 4:10's. There should be a metal tag on one of the bolts on your Diff. covers but, sometimes when people change the fluid they fail to put it back on. The easiest way if the tag is not there is to call the parts dept. of a dealer and give them your Vin.# and they will be able to tell you which gears you have.themule
 
#24 · (Edited)
3.73's will lower your rpm's better on the open road with fuel mileage. 4.10's are better for pulling heavy loads especially in the mountains. When I had to replace my original rear end I had the choice of changing gears to 3.73 but, I decided to stick with my 4.10's for pulling besides, I knew what to expect for fuel mileage and I knew I had the umph to get up the mountains. I use to haul commercially up to 40 foot campers,boats,horse trailers,and cargo trailers all over the country and the 4.10's were the best gears for what I was doing. Now, that I do not do that anymore if I ever have to change the rear end I would go with 3.73's since the biggest thing I pull anymore is my 12' enclosed trailer once in a great while I might pull something bigger but, very rare. Do I need a 1-ton dually anymore no but , I can't get myself to sell it. Lol themule
 
#27 ·
Hey, DAH7 I was reading another thread on IVS several people have just bent the tab so, it is a little closer and had great results with smoother throttle response. It's worth a shot doesn't cost you anything you can always bend it back. If that doesn't do it from what I have read no one sells just the IVS unless, somebody knows otherwise. It's either new roughly $431 or used in which case I would go used unless they want almost as much as a new one. themule
 
#28 ·
If you're seeing 2000 RPM at about 60 mph you have 4.10 gearing (this on 235/85r16 tires). 3.73 gears would be a nice compromise in my opinion but wasn't an option until the Super Duty line came along for 1999.

Nice looking pickup you've found!
 
#29 ·
I watched my RPM's relative to speed on my drive this morning...

1500 RPM's at 50 mph
1900 RPM's at 60 mph

Also re mounted my IVS switch back in its factory location last night. Bent the tab outward a bit so the switch opens much sooner and the truck is driving great. Really happy with this, thanks again guys.

Here's a photo of the oil leak that I have been slow to post. I still don't know what the "valley" is, but I believe the photo shows the crank pulley and the front of the oil pan... I am contemplating cleaning it off and seeing where it comes from, but I am somewhat concerned that if I mess with the area, the leak will speed up.
 
#30 ·
Hi! DAH7 I'm glad bending the tab worked. I'm guessing you probably have 4.10 gear at 60 I turn 2000 RPM's could be a diff. between my guage and yours. The valley is the area where your fuel filter and turbo sits it's always a good idea to check it from time to time to see if any oil or fuel is pooling up there is a hole on the passenger side towards the back of the valley area that is a drain. If you ever get the idea that you might have a rear main seal leak always check in the valley first that drain is right above the transmission bell housing which will make you think that the rear main seal is leaking. Your picture never showed up. themule
 
#32 · (Edited)
I had the same truck. Took it to 265k and it rotted away. Engine ran well though. I would also recommend a complete fluid flush and
Replacement. I would install a coolant filter as well. You will also eventually want to replace the front axle with a Dana 60. If you are experiencing cold weather your throttle hesitation could be the EBPV engaging. I ended up using mine as a engine break. It worked ok, but not great.
You could also have a 3.55 axle.
 
#34 ·
Exactly, what bugman said. I wouldn't worry, about it unless it starts to bleed profusely from that cover. Lol
 
#35 ·
After learning what the "valley" is, I looked in there last night with a flash light... there is definitely some pooling in the valley. Getting in to that area to even locate a leak seems like a giant PITA... there is barely enough room to even see the leak, much less find it. I cant tell if that's where the oil in the front of the motor is coming from yet.. going to look at it some more this week when it cools down. it's 105 in Phx right now and I don't want to be under the hood of a truck at the moment.
 
#36 ·
I'll rub it in it's only 73 here. Lol The easy way I clean the valley is take something long and skinny I use a long screw driver and then take a micro fiber towel and tear it into strips wrap it around whatever you use and tape it in place so it don't fall down in the valley soak up as much as you can and repeat. Once it is cleaned up pretty good I then use brake kleen with the little red nozzle and spray down in there it will dry up anything that is left. Usually, it will probably be diesel fuel it can look like oil with all the grime down there but, to be sure smell the rag. If it is diesel it usually, will be the lift pump or the short rubber hoses from the pump to the fuel bowl also, could be coming from the fuel bowl itself.The lift pump has a weep hole on the underside that will leak when it's going bad. The lift pump is located right behind the fuel bowl and in front of the turbo down in the valley. Once you get it cleaned start the truck and take a flash light and watch around the lift pump and fuel bowl area if it's the pump. Themule
 
#37 ·
I've also noticed that the front end on the truck feels a bit loose or sloppy... I have seen a few people talking about swapping the TTB for a dana 60 front end? Is that a more desirable setup for certain things? OR am I better off just slowly going through the front end of my TTB front end until its in good shape?
 
#38 ·
I would also not worry about that front seeping until it was dripping. The best way to figure what is going on leak wise is to take some time with oil eater and a garden hose. spray down dirty stuff and use hot water to wash until the block is clean and dry. You may have to do it a few times, but once it is clean it is easy to spot leaks and identify if it is oil or fuel. Both can show up in the valley.
DENNY
 
#39 ·
I found a guy here in Phx that has an add up for axles, sounds like this would work on my 96 4x4 right?

"selling axles soon from 97 f350 rear 10.25 front d60 4:10 gears 8x6.5 pattern complete with springs, wheels and tires 35" bfg AT ok tread left asking 1400 obo"
 
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