I bought a 7.3L! '1996 F250 with 211k miles - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #16 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 10:58 AM
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Yeah, it makes sense try spraying contact cleaner 1st before switching out the pedal assy. I just did a search you can buy a new pedal assy. but,they are $400 + I would get one from junk yard before buying it new as long as they don't want the as much as a new one. I bought my spare pedal assy. back in 2009 for like 15-$20 at a junk yard.

I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Upgrades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!
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post #17 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 12:27 PM
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I assume that you plan on keeping this truck for a long time. I would recommend investing in an AutoEnginuity with the ford enhanced package which will allow you to fully diagnose any issues with your truck. It can read any codes and clear them as well also, it can read live data so you can see what the sensors are reading as well as oil pressure etc. also, it can do an injector buzz test and cylinder contribution test basically, it can do anything a dealer can do. Just so, you know your local auto part stores cannot read diagnostic codes on these fords only a dealer and or a shop that has the right scanner. The AutoEnginuity will be a great investment about $350 it will save you from throwing money at parts trying to fix a problem. Even if you don't do the work yourself you will at least save the diagnostic fee that shops charge which can be 50-$100. themule

I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Upgrades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!
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post #18 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 12:49 PM
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Something that I just read in another post is a bad or failing (CPS) Cam Position Sensor mimicked a faulty Throttle Position Sensor for this guy. If spraying the contact cleaner doesn't help I would try replacing the CPS before the pedal assy. The CPS can cause all kinds of driveability issues as well as a no start. They are inexpensive $30 and a great thing to keep your glove box if you are at all mechanically inclined it is easy to replace 1 bolt holding it and it is located at your crank you will see the plug with 2 or 3 wires I don't remember it's been so long since I have had to replace mine by the way I keep a couple spares.

I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Upgrades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!
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post #19 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 07:53 PM
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One note of caution about spraying contact cleaner or brake cleaner.
I had a TPS that had dead spots on a 2002.
After replacement I took the old one apart and inspected it. I posted photos back around March of 2017.

The results of my inspection were that solvents weaken the adhesive which hold the small metallic particles in place which conduct current. They become more easily scraped off and the reason for dead spots is this very thing.

I would discourage spraying any type of solvent internally in the 2002 TPS assembly.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

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post #20 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-14-2018, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Something that I just read in another post is a bad or failing (CPS) Cam Position Sensor mimicked a faulty Throttle Position Sensor for this guy. If spraying the contact cleaner doesn't help I would try replacing the CPS before the pedal assy. The CPS can cause all kinds of driveability issues as well as a no start. They are inexpensive $30 and a great thing to keep your glove box if you are at all mechanically inclined it is easy to replace 1 bolt holding it and it is located at your crank you will see the plug with 2 or 3 wires I don't remember it's been so long since I have had to replace mine by the way I keep a couple spares.
So I removed the IVS from the pedal assembly and mounted it under the dash. Now I start the truck, click the IVS once with my hand and I'm off. Driveability has improved 10X. I have way more throttle control now and I feel like the tranny is even shifting smoother. I may just leave te thing mounted under the dash... just come up with a more permanent mounting solution, since right now I'm using a binder clip

on a side note, I just got through my first tank of fuel and looks like I got about 17-18 mpg... all basically city driving as well. seems decent to me for a truck with this much towing capability!
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post #21 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-14-2018, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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I'm glad you got the throttle response figured out so, the switch is no longer on the pedal? I would have thought that it would have to remain on the pedal so, that it knows how hard your pushing on the go pedal. Do you know what gears are in your truck? Your mileage is about what I got when my truck was stock but, it's still not bad when you consider the weight. On mine I have 4:10's for me the sweet spot is 62mph about 2000-2050 rpm I can pretty consistently get 20.4-22.3mpg on the highway. I recently, went to Durango, Co. for 2 weeks and pulled my 7'x12' enclosed trailer with my Harley and all camping gear and anything else, that I thought I would need. Lol I got 17.4 going there at 62mph and coming home of course I was in a hurry to get home and I set my cruise at 70 and got 13.3mpg. With my gears it makes a big difference on fuel mileage depending how fast I go. themule
Mule, there are 2 different sensors on the pedal assembly. The TPS (throttle positioning sensor) and IVS (idle validation switch). The IVS is the one that I moved.

I have no idea what gears are in my truck... is there some way I can tell? I think when I am doing about 60mph my RPM's are just under 2,000. I will pay attention on my way home today. Tires and wheels are the stock size as far as I can tell.
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post #22 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-14-2018, 03:38 PM
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I got you... Learn something new everyday... What exactly does the IVS do? and I wonder how did it change your throttle response by moving it? If its under 2000rpm you probably have 3.73's if it is 2000 I would say 4:10's. There should be a metal tag on one of the bolts on your Diff. covers but, sometimes when people change the fluid they fail to put it back on. The easiest way if the tag is not there is to call the parts dept. of a dealer and give them your Vin.# and they will be able to tell you which gears you have.themule

I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Upgrades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!
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post #23 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-14-2018, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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I got you... Learn something new everyday... What exactly does the IVS do? and I wonder how did it change your throttle response by moving it? If its under 2000rpm you probably have 3.73's if it is 2000 I would say 4:10's. There should be a metal tag on one of the bolts on your Diff. covers but, sometimes when people change the fluid they fail to put it back on. The easiest way if the tag is not there is to call the parts dept. of a dealer and give them your Vin.# and they will be able to tell you which gears you have.themule
what are the advantages/disadvantages of having 4:10's vs 3:73's?
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post #24 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-14-2018, 04:02 PM
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3.73's will lower your rpm's better on the open road with fuel mileage. 4.10's are better for pulling heavy loads especially in the mountains. When I had to replace my original rear end I had the choice of changing gears to 3.73 but, I decided to stick with my 4.10's for pulling besides, I knew what to expect for fuel mileage and I knew I had the umph to get up the mountains. I use to haul commercially up to 40 foot campers,boats,horse trailers,and cargo trailers all over the country and the 4.10's were the best gears for what I was doing. Now, that I do not do that anymore if I ever have to change the rear end I would go with 3.73's since the biggest thing I pull anymore is my 12' enclosed trailer once in a great while I might pull something bigger but, very rare. Do I need a 1-ton dually anymore no but , I can't get myself to sell it. Lol themule

I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Upgrades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!

Last edited by themule67; 08-14-2018 at 04:04 PM.
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post #25 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 01:45 AM
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So I removed the IVS from the pedal assembly and mounted it under the dash. Now I start the truck, click the IVS once with my hand and I'm off.
The IVS is not something that just gets activated once when you turn on your truck so from what you are describing, it sounds like your IVS is not working correctly and in need of replacement.

The IVS is there to tell the system (including transmission) when you are at “Idle” (accelerator pedal not depressed) and it activates every time you depress the accelerator. It is an “Open/Closed” switch that operates at 12V.

The TPS is a potentiometer and creates a unique voltage for each position of the accelerator pedal’s full range of motion.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 08-15-2018 at 05:20 AM.
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post #26 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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The IVS is not something that just gets activated once when you turn on your truck so from what you are describing, it sounds like your IVS is not working correctly and in need of replacement.

The IVS is there to tell the system (including transmission) when you are at “Idle” (accelerator pedal not depressed) and it activates every time you depress the accelerator. It is an “Open/Closed” switch that operates at 12V.

The TPS is a potentiometer and creates a unique voltage for each position of the accelerator pedal’s full range of motion.
What you are saying makes logical sense to me, so I am having a hard time understanding why my truck is running so much better when I turn the truck on and depress the switch once. I also am having trouble understanding how it would effect the transmission, but I think it does because the truck is shifting mush smoother the way I have the switch set up right now... I'm pretty baffled by this..

Is there anyway to get an IVS without purchasing a new pedal assembly or pulling one from a boneyard?
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post #27 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 12:53 PM
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Hey, DAH7 I was reading another thread on IVS several people have just bent the tab so, it is a little closer and had great results with smoother throttle response. It's worth a shot doesn't cost you anything you can always bend it back. If that doesn't do it from what I have read no one sells just the IVS unless, somebody knows otherwise. It's either new roughly $431 or used in which case I would go used unless they want almost as much as a new one. themule

I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Upgrades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!
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post #28 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 03:47 PM
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If you're seeing 2000 RPM at about 60 mph you have 4.10 gearing (this on 235/85r16 tires). 3.73 gears would be a nice compromise in my opinion but wasn't an option until the Super Duty line came along for 1999.

Nice looking pickup you've found!

'94 1/2 F250 4x4, SuperCab XLT, 5 spd, SMF w/ Valaeo clutch, 4.10 (syn. lube), Rotella 5W40 Syn, manual hubs, B&W Gooseneck hitch, Cooper ST Maxx tires in 235/85R16, authentic TYMAR intake, 4" AFE exhaust, FRP mod., SD starter, Isspro boost/pyro,digital thermometer, homebuilt exhaust brake, 194K Fresh factory injectors at 186K, TS-6 chip. Dana 60 conversion! "Its only a pickup. Trucks have a button on the shifter!"


'12 F150 Supercrew, 4x4, 5.0L, Lariat, 146K, "Race Red" and no speeding tickets yet...


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post #29 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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If you're seeing 2000 RPM at about 60 mph you have 4.10 gearing (this on 235/85r16 tires). 3.73 gears would be a nice compromise in my opinion but wasn't an option until the Super Duty line came along for 1999.

Nice looking pickup you've found!
I watched my RPM's relative to speed on my drive this morning...

1500 RPM's at 50 mph
1900 RPM's at 60 mph

Also re mounted my IVS switch back in its factory location last night. Bent the tab outward a bit so the switch opens much sooner and the truck is driving great. Really happy with this, thanks again guys.

Here's a photo of the oil leak that I have been slow to post. I still don't know what the "valley" is, but I believe the photo shows the crank pulley and the front of the oil pan... I am contemplating cleaning it off and seeing where it comes from, but I am somewhat concerned that if I mess with the area, the leak will speed up.
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post #30 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 02:34 PM
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Hi! DAH7 I'm glad bending the tab worked. I'm guessing you probably have 4.10 gear at 60 I turn 2000 RPM's could be a diff. between my guage and yours. The valley is the area where your fuel filter and turbo sits it's always a good idea to check it from time to time to see if any oil or fuel is pooling up there is a hole on the passenger side towards the back of the valley area that is a drain. If you ever get the idea that you might have a rear main seal leak always check in the valley first that drain is right above the transmission bell housing which will make you think that the rear main seal is leaking. Your picture never showed up. themule

I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Upgrades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!
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