I bought a 7.3L! '1996 F250 with 211k miles - Page 3 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #31 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by themule67 View Post
Hi! DAH7 I'm glad bending the tab worked. I'm guessing you probably have 4.10 gear at 60 I turn 2000 RPM's could be a diff. between my guage and yours. The valley is the area where your fuel filter and turbo sits it's always a good idea to check it from time to time to see if any oil or fuel is pooling up there is a hole on the passenger side towards the back of the valley area that is a drain. If you ever get the idea that you might have a rear main seal leak always check in the valley first that drain is right above the transmission bell housing which will make you think that the rear main seal is leaking. Your picture never showed up. themule
Sorry about that.. here is the photo of the oil leak...

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post #32 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 07:21 PM
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I bought a 7.3L! '1996 F250 with 211k miles

I had the same truck. Took it to 265k and it rotted away. Engine ran well though. I would also recommend a complete fluid flush and
Replacement. I would install a coolant filter as well. You will also eventually want to replace the front axle with a Dana 60. If you are experiencing cold weather your throttle hesitation could be the EBPV engaging. I ended up using mine as a engine break. It worked ok, but not great.
You could also have a 3.55 axle.

1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 2.5" axle drop bracket, F350 springs up front, and F350 rear axle blocks. 260k miles. RETIRED.

NEW (to me) 2005 F350 FX4 Crewcab shortbed, SRW, Lariat, auto, V10. 5600 lbs front end.

Last edited by NickKent; 08-17-2018 at 07:49 PM.
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post #33 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 07:36 PM
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Sorry about that.. here is the photo of the oil leak...

My truck has had that same accumulation since it was a few years old and out of warranty. I wouldn't call it a leak unless it is dripping. It is more like a seepage that never hits the ground.

If it is actually dripping on the ground it is likely the front cover and to repair that you need to pull the engine.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #34 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 11:35 PM
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Exactly, what bugman said. I wouldn't worry, about it unless it starts to bleed profusely from that cover. Lol

I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Upgrades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!
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post #35 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Exactly, what bugman said. I wouldn't worry, about it unless it starts to bleed profusely from that cover. Lol
After learning what the "valley" is, I looked in there last night with a flash light... there is definitely some pooling in the valley. Getting in to that area to even locate a leak seems like a giant PITA... there is barely enough room to even see the leak, much less find it. I cant tell if that's where the oil in the front of the motor is coming from yet.. going to look at it some more this week when it cools down. it's 105 in Phx right now and I don't want to be under the hood of a truck at the moment.
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post #36 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 05:31 PM
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I'll rub it in it's only 73 here. Lol The easy way I clean the valley is take something long and skinny I use a long screw driver and then take a micro fiber towel and tear it into strips wrap it around whatever you use and tape it in place so it don't fall down in the valley soak up as much as you can and repeat. Once it is cleaned up pretty good I then use brake kleen with the little red nozzle and spray down in there it will dry up anything that is left. Usually, it will probably be diesel fuel it can look like oil with all the grime down there but, to be sure smell the rag. If it is diesel it usually, will be the lift pump or the short rubber hoses from the pump to the fuel bowl also, could be coming from the fuel bowl itself.The lift pump has a weep hole on the underside that will leak when it's going bad. The lift pump is located right behind the fuel bowl and in front of the turbo down in the valley. Once you get it cleaned start the truck and take a flash light and watch around the lift pump and fuel bowl area if it's the pump. Themule

I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Upgrades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!
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post #37 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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I've also noticed that the front end on the truck feels a bit loose or sloppy... I have seen a few people talking about swapping the TTB for a dana 60 front end? Is that a more desirable setup for certain things? OR am I better off just slowly going through the front end of my TTB front end until its in good shape?
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post #38 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 01:34 PM
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I would also not worry about that front seeping until it was dripping. The best way to figure what is going on leak wise is to take some time with oil eater and a garden hose. spray down dirty stuff and use hot water to wash until the block is clean and dry. You may have to do it a few times, but once it is clean it is easy to spot leaks and identify if it is oil or fuel. Both can show up in the valley.
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #39 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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I found a guy here in Phx that has an add up for axles, sounds like this would work on my 96 4x4 right?

"selling axles soon from 97 f350 rear 10.25 front d60 4:10 gears 8x6.5 pattern complete with springs, wheels and tires 35" bfg AT ok tread left asking 1400 obo"
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post #40 of 75 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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I'm going to start working on locating this fuel leak before my truck burns to the ground. I plan to start by cleaning up the pooling in the valley and trying to see what are the fuel is coming from. If I end up having to pull the fuel bowl to locate/repair the leak, I may as well start replacing o-rings/seals on just about everything I pull out.

You guys think you could help me put together a list of things to service when I start this project? I'd like to buy all the parts and seals that i'll need to compete the work quickly so the truck isn't sitting for long.

So far I have been looking at dieselorings website and I have a list of the following:

- complete fuel bowl re-seal kit
- fuel filter element
- Regulator repair kit
- banjo bolt gaskets (2)
- fuel pump shaft o-ring
- viton fuel line sleeves (for the connections at the head I believe)
- o-ring lube

Should I also buy some fuel line to replace various hoses when I get this thing apart?

thanks guys!
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post #41 of 75 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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I decided to tackle the fuel leaks in the valley this weekend. I still couldn't locate where exactly the leak was coming from. Some of the fuel lines were starting to crack, so I think it was a combination of that and the fuel pump as well. Decided to just replace the pump since I had it all apart... new fuel lines all the way around, rebuilt the bowl and FPR with new orings and seals and cleaned up the god forsaken valley.

Heres the valley disassembled and in the process of being cleaned up.


Here is the fuel bowl and FPR after cleaning up and replacing all seals


Her is the oxidation in the bottom of the bowl that I noticed, not sure if this is a normal thing to see. I just wire brushed it out a bit when cleaning.


And here is my busted up fuel heater that I just threw back in there for now. Does this thing really need to be replaced if I live in Phoenix???


I got everything back together late last night and she fired right up. Drove it a few miles and checked for leaks, the valley appears to be dry for now. Thank you sweet baby jesus...

I will take it for a longer drive this week and see how she looks. Thanks again to everyone on this awesome site that answered my silly questions and offered invaluable insight. It made this job seem a lot more doable for a total non mechanic.

1996 f-250 XLT 4x4 7.3 - 215k miles - bone stock, for now...
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post #42 of 75 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 10:28 AM
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Nice work.

I would still want a fuel bowl heater no matter where I lived.

Just in case.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #43 of 75 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 10:29 AM
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I don’t think you qualify as a “total non mechanic” any longer.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #44 of 75 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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I don’t think you qualify as a “total non mechanic” any longer.
Well after I got the truck running yesterday, I noticed my transmission is leaking a bit... Go figure. I doubt that will be a cheap fix.

1996 f-250 XLT 4x4 7.3 - 215k miles - bone stock, for now...
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post #45 of 75 (permalink) Old 09-15-2018, 02:57 AM
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I live in Dallas TX and left the heater element out a few years ago when I rebuilt the fuel filter bowl, and have not noticed any different winter or summer. .
I am noticing some fuel in the valley again even though I replaced all the hoses and seals. I suspect the banjo bolt seals on the fuel pump. How did you tighten that banjo bolt without removing the turbo? I may need to replace those seals again.

For some reason, I can’t see the pictures of your truck that you posted.
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