I bought a 7.3L! '1996 F250 with 211k miles - Page 4 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #46 of 75 (permalink) Old 09-20-2018, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dallas97PSD View Post
I live in Dallas TX and left the heater element out a few years ago when I rebuilt the fuel filter bowl, and have not noticed any different winter or summer. .
I am noticing some fuel in the valley again even though I replaced all the hoses and seals. I suspect the banjo bolt seals on the fuel pump. How did you tighten that banjo bolt without removing the turbo? I may need to replace those seals again.

For some reason, I can’t see the pictures of your truck that you posted.
Sorry for the late response, was out of town...

If you are patient, you can get to the banjo bolt with a standard open end wrench. I think it was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4"... Can't remember for sure now. It was a pain in the ass to remove because it was grimed up and the wrench only gives you a small turn at each attempt. I had to loosen a bit and then flip the wrench to get it to engage for the next small turn. If you are simply trying to tighten the banjo bolt, then it probably wont be too bad at all. Could also be the weep hole on your fuel pump that is leaking though.

1996 f-250 XLT 4x4 7.3 - 215k miles - bone stock, for now...
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post #47 of 75 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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So I finally bought a trailer to haul with the diesel.. We are really excited! Its a 28ft toy hauler and weighs about 5500lbs empty and about 7500lbs max when fully loaded.

The wife and I towed it home about 15 miles last weekend... I believe I have 4:10 gears so I tried to keep it around 65mph which is about 2100 RPMs. Truck seemed to do fine as far as I can tell.

The truck is 100% stock with 215k miles on it. We plan to tow the trailer from Phoenix to Glamis (California) pretty often, about a 500 mile round trip. I think its probably a good idea to install some gauges in the cab so I can keep an eye on things. Can you guys recommend which gauges would be most beneficial in keeping the truck running safely? I think trans temp is the one that I know is a must, right? Also, any particular brand that has the most complete kit? I don't mind paying a little bit more within reason if it makes the install process a little smoother or gives me the most accurate readings.

thanks guys, I love this site. Makes me love my truck even more

1996 f-250 XLT 4x4 7.3 - 215k miles - bone stock, for now...

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post #48 of 75 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 03:41 PM
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Hey, DAH7 glad the truck is doing good for you. I bought my gauges 13 yrs. ago from Napa just go to your local Napa and tell them that you need a boost, pyrometer and trans. temp gauge you will also, need to purchase the 3 gauge holder that mounts on your A-pillar just to your left next to the windshield. You might be able to purchase the 3 gauge holder from Napa I honestly do not remember if I bought mine from Napa or not. When you go to install the pyrometer gauge sensor you will want to install the sensor in your driver side exhaust manifold you will have to drill and tap the hole as there is not one. themule67

I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Upgrades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!
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post #49 of 75 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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I just got my gauges installed for our first road trip. We towed the Toy Hauler down to the Glamis sand dunes for Thanksgiving. The truck did great and the gauges gave me a ton of feedback on how the motor was doing along the way.

As you can see in the image, my EGT's were pegged at around 1200 for the whole trip. I was running at about 65 MPH the whole way and about 2100 RPM's. I just started another thread with a slew of questions about towing, OverDrive, EGT's and MPG's haha I have a lot to learn.

I only got about 9 MPG's and my trailer only weighs about 7,000lbs. I felt like that seemed a little low. I am looking for pointers on how to use overdrive correctly, how to get better mpg's and how to keep my egt's lower... maybe even some upgrades to help some of those things...

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Originally Posted by themule67 View Post
Hey, DAH7 glad the truck is doing good for you. I bought my gauges 13 yrs. ago from Napa just go to your local Napa and tell them that you need a boost, pyrometer and trans. temp gauge you will also, need to purchase the 3 gauge holder that mounts on your A-pillar just to your left next to the windshield. You might be able to purchase the 3 gauge holder from Napa I honestly do not remember if I bought mine from Napa or not. When you go to install the pyrometer gauge sensor you will want to install the sensor in your driver side exhaust manifold you will have to drill and tap the hole as there is not one. themule67

1996 f-250 XLT 4x4 7.3 - 215k miles - bone stock, for now...

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post #50 of 75 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 01:13 AM Thread Starter
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cold start issues

On to the next project... Chasing my cold start issues:

This last winter was my first since buying the truck. The previous owner warned me that it could get tough to start in colder temps, but that I could just plug in the block heater and it would start right up after a bit. When its warm outside, the truck always cranks over first try within 1 or 2 seconds and idles/runs great. When the temps hit about 50*F, I first noticed the truck getting hard to start. I would crank for 4 or 5 seconds before it would try to start, and then sometimes it would die once I stopped cranking. I'd try again and it would usually fire up, puke white smoke for a second and idle rough for a couple seconds and then clear up. I noticed the cold starts becoming a bigger issue once temps got below about 40*F. The truck essentially wouldn't start at all... I'd cycle the glow plugs a couple times, waiting about a minute after the WTS light went off, then cycling them again. I could do this 5 times and still couldn't fire the truck. It would puke white smoke while I cranked it. Batteries are brand new, so I know its not that. Once I plugged the block heater in for 20 minutes or so, the truck would fire immediately and idle perfectly just as it does in the warmer months.

This makes me think its an issue with the glow plug system? Today I went out with the multimeter and ran some tests that I read about people using on this forum. With the key in the 'off' position, I grounded the negative lead of the multimeter to the negative battery terminal and placed the positive lead of the multimeter on the "Always Hot" lug of the GPR. Voltage reading is right about 12.5v which seems great. Then I turned the key to the "on" position, wait for the WTS light to turn off and tested the "always hot" lug on the GPR, reading is about 11.4v which seems good. Then again with the key in the 'on' position, I tested the other big lug which I believe delivers power to the glow plug harness, this lug was also reading about 11.3v. Outside temperature was about 75*F today, and with the key in the on position, the GPR stays on for about 30 seconds. All of this sounds to be in pretty good shape to me? Am I missing any tests on the GPR before I move on to the bigger items like valve cover gaskets and glow plugs themselves? I was really hoping it would be a $50 relay and a 15 minute install.

If I have tested the GPR correctly, and it seems to be working properly, I was reading in another thread that I can test the glow plugs through the ohm reading on the external valve cover plug for the glow plugs harness? I am not overly handy with electrical components, so I am having trouble understanding how you can safely test the other other components to help diagnose the problem.

Is it likely that all 8 of my GP's are bad? Would a few of them not working properly cause the truck to not start at temperatures of 40*F???

Thanks for any help, you guys have been life savers since I purchased this truck!

1996 f-250 XLT 4x4 7.3 - 215k miles - bone stock, for now...
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post #51 of 75 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 01:30 AM
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DAH7,

EGTs pegged at 1200 the whole trip? Did it fluctuate?

Where did you tap into your exhaust?

Are you chipped?


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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post #52 of 75 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 11:43 AM
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Your relay looks like it is working, but you can check the voltage "drop" through the relay by placing the leads across the relay's big terminals (one lead on a big terminal and the other lead the remaining big terminal) while the relay is active. More than 0.3V and the relay is bad. Check the resistance of the plugs by placing the meter lead on the valvecover gasket pin for a glowplug (the outermost pins on each connection, so pin 1 and pin 5) and going to a good ground with the other. Truck can be just sitting dead (key is not on). Have the meter setting at the lowest setting above the value your trying to measure (so if you are trying to measure a GP at 0.1 to 1.0 ohms, set the resistance setting to say the 10 or 20 ohms setting). At 211k the injectors poppets may be getting worn causing the hard cold starts if everything else checks out. Cheers!

97 F250 SC 4x4 (CA model), E4OD, 4.10 LS,
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post #53 of 75 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ArcticDriver View Post
DAH7,

EGTs pegged at 1200 the whole trip? Did it fluctuate?

Where did you tap into your exhaust?

Are you chipped?
ArcticDriver,

My apologies! Let me clarify the "EGT pegged at 1200" statement, I should have explained that better. I was towing around 65 to 70 mph most the way, and it was not always pegged at 1200 degrees. If I'm cruising DOWN a slight grade it may back down to 700 degrees. If I wasnt pulling a grade, it may have dropped to 900-1100 or so, but if I was pulling a grade it would creep back up around 1200 for a minute or so. I sort of let the EGT be my guage for how much fuel I am feeding the motor. If I have to drop down to 55mph while pulling a grade, so be it. I'd rather do that and keep my EGT's at 1200, rather than trying to hold 65mph and running the EGT's to 1300 for long periods of time. I never have let it get over 1300 since i've owned it. The EGT probe is where evryone in the forums said to put it, drivers side exhaust manifold just before the coupler if I remember correctly...

I think the truck may have some sort of chip, but I am not sure. I got a piece of paperwork from the previous owner that was from "BANKS", but it was very vague on what exactly it was for. I can try and dig up the paperwork and post a photo of it helps at all...

Last edited by DAH7; 05-07-2019 at 04:45 PM. Reason: forgot to answer a question.
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post #54 of 75 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 01:53 AM
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DAH7,
Based on your description it sounds like your GPR is good and you have some bad GPs.

The voltage drop of 1.1v with Key On suggests some are working but Motorcraft GPs are cheap compared to the labor effort so many guys just replace them all...it will be interesting to see what kind of resistance (Ohms) you measure when you test the GPs.

Motorcraft or Beru GPs only. I find them for about $8/each on Amazon.

Do you need to replace the VCG on your model year? On the 99+ it is a reusable gasket.


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
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post #55 of 75 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Feeley View Post
Your relay looks like it is working, but you can check the voltage "drop" through the relay by placing the leads across the relay's big terminals (one lead on a big terminal and the other lead the remaining big terminal) while the relay is active. More than 0.3V and the relay is bad. Check the resistance of the plugs by placing the meter lead on the valvecover gasket pin for a glowplug (the outermost pins on each connection, so pin 1 and pin 5) and going to a good ground with the other. Truck can be just sitting dead (key is not on). Have the meter setting at the lowest setting above the value your trying to measure (so if you are trying to measure a GP at 0.1 to 1.0 ohms, set the resistance setting to say the 10 or 20 ohms setting). At 211k the injectors poppets may be getting worn causing the hard cold starts if everything else checks out. Cheers!
I just ran the drop test as you suggested. With the key on and the GPR activated, one multimeter probe on the 'always hot' lug and one on the 'power delivery to glow plugs' lug... Voltage reading was a steady 0.04v.


I switched my multimeter over to Ohms and set it on the lowest setting possible, which for mine is 200 (it also has settings for 2k, 20k, 200k and 2M) Next, I pulled the plug off the valve cover gasket and located the 5 pins attached to the plug on the valve cover gasket. With the key out of the truck I tested the 1st pin closest to the firewall. with my positive lead on that first pin and my negative lead on the negative side of the battery, my multimeter display never changed from [ 0L. ]. So next I tried the 5th pin within that plug (furthest from the firewall), this time I got a reading of .008 on my multimeter.

I don't know much about Ohms and Volts and I was reading in another post that if you touch one of the 3 inner pins with the plug, it pretty much cause Armageddon ... so I got spooked and decided to check back in with you guys on the test of the first plug. Based on common sense, it seems that the first pin not giving me any reading at all, and the 5th pin giving me a reading of .008 would point to some sort of issue, correct?

Im scurrrrrred.

1996 f-250 XLT 4x4 7.3 - 215k miles - bone stock, for now...
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post #56 of 75 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 01:18 PM
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When testing the glowplugs with the truck off and meter in resistance mode, you won't cause problems with the other pins. In fact, if you measured from the outermost pins to any of the three middle pins, they should all read OL indicating there are no shorts between GP and injector wiring). Check the other VC connections as well. The OL (open line) plug would be bad and the other is probably suspect. Cheers!

97 F250 SC 4x4 (CA model), E4OD, 4.10 LS,
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post #57 of 75 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Since it's looking like i'll need to replace my glow plugs, I wanted to run one of these oil analysis to get a feel for what kind of shape the motor is in. I went with blackstone labs as a few people on here suggested, and I just got the report back today...


This is my first time doing this, so I have no idea what the results mean. Anyone with some knowledge in this area care to let me know their thoughts on the results before I spend the time and money tearing into the valves to replace glow plugs, gaskets etc?

Also should note that I had to run an emissions test last week for registration renewal and the truck registered 0.00% opacity of the 40.0% allowable. So that makes me feel like it may be a relatively healthy truck...?

Oil was run for 3200 miles (Around 2000 of those miles were towing around 8k to 9k lbs)
Chevron Delo 10w40


thanks in advance guys!
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1996 f-250 XLT 4x4 7.3 - 215k miles - bone stock, for now...

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post #58 of 75 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 08:08 PM
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Like the report says every truck is different so don't get too focused on on number it is more of a trend thing. They will tell you if the see something major. Glow plug tricks, I use a short piece of vacuum hose slipped over the top of them to help get them out and started back into the holes. I would replace the under cover harness while you have the valve covers off. Be patient with the rear valve cover bolts
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #59 of 75 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
Like the report says every truck is different so don't get too focused on on number it is more of a trend thing. They will tell you if the see something major. Glow plug tricks, I use a short piece of vacuum hose slipped over the top of them to help get them out and started back into the holes. I would replace the under cover harness while you have the valve covers off. Be patient with the rear valve cover bolts
DENNY
Thanks Denny, i'll take all the hints and tips you've got haha for some reason the thought of removing the valve covers and getting at the glow plugs seems daunting. I'll have to search around for a good write up on this and get after it!

1996 f-250 XLT 4x4 7.3 - 215k miles - bone stock, for now...
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post #60 of 75 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 08:32 AM
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I didn’t realize DELO made a 10w-40 diesel oil for the US market.

Do you recall which type this is...the 3 letters such as XDE, XLE?

Interesting that a 5K mile OCI was suggested...is this a full synthetic?

These oil tests are most useful when performed in a regular series to identify trends...which can get quite expensive.

Thanks

Edit:
Its good to see these UOAs for the CK-4 products being posted.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
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Last edited by ArcticDriver; 07-03-2019 at 09:52 PM.
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