I just turned over 200K, and AC goes out. - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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I just turned over 200K, and AC goes out.

Hello everyone.
I just turned over 200K on Friday & on Sunday the AC compressor seized up.
The clutch looks like it was spraying molten metal out.
Cool, actually not cool. It's too hot for no AC.

I plan to replace the compressor, clutch, dryer/accumulator and orifice tube.
I can't seem to locate the orifice tube itself, anyone know where it's at?
I was told that inspection of the orifice tube for contamination is a good way to evaluate the condition of the rest of the system.
I am EPA certified & have the basic tools required, but generally don't work on vehicles.
Does a new compressor come with oil?
How much oil / refrigerant does the system need?
Can I weigh in the charge, or is there a better way?
The system was still charged when I pulled the compressor, though it had been slightly leaking oil at the compressor pulley for many years.

Any tips or links would be greatly appreciated.
How

1997 F250 XLT SC/LB AT Powerstroke 4X4 all stock
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 10:30 PM
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These trucks have a/c???? I thought that was just a misprint on the selector switch. Mine has been out forever. Good Luck!

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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My nephew just finished boot camp at Fort Sill, OK. The AC worked for 200127 miles, I miss it a lot.

1997 F250 XLT SC/LB AT Powerstroke 4X4 all stock
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 10:46 PM
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Don't forget to flush the system, some recommend removing the evaporator and condenser to make sure you get all the metal bits from the seized compressor out of the system. Otherwise you risk replacing the compressor again VERY soon (I have seen as little as a day).

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know how to access the orifice tube? I think I figured out where it is located, but can't get the connection apart. There's a tube leaving the condensor on the passenger side. it runs back close to the accumulator, turns downward and enters the heater box / evaporator. After it turns downward there's a connection that appears to be held together with a spring clip. The connection twists, but won't pull apart even with the spring clip removed. I don't want to break anything, can someone please verify if this is the right location & how it comes apart?

1997 F250 XLT SC/LB AT Powerstroke 4X4 all stock
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 08:37 PM
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youll need the set of tools to disegage the spring lock connectors--they dont cost much--and if that compresser was going for a period of time---------- theres a thing called black death. its when the oil lubing and cooling the comp gets very hot, and turns to tar. when it gets to the condensor--it turns to black rock!!! cause it cools off. the only cure is to replace the condensor. the orifice tube in inside the line going from the condensor to the evap. you may not have the black death, but you better make sure-----------

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 08:46 PM
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If you're going to spend the money on a new compressor you should really consider a new condenser, they are usually impossible to get all of the contamination out of and any pieces in there will get back to the compressor and destroy it. That condenser should be about $145 from napa.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2009, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by md18 View Post
If you're going to spend the money on a new compressor you should really consider a new condenser, they are usually impossible to get all of the contamination out of and any pieces in there will get back to the compressor and destroy it. That condenser should be about $145 from napa.
it should be about the same from ford.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2009, 10:16 AM
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The orifice tube is located in the bulged section of the metal tube between the condenser and the evaporator, just before the springlock fitting. After the system is discharged, disconnect the tube (with the proper unlocking tool) and reach down with a small needle-nose or hemostat and pull out the O-tube. Inspect closely and if there are any metal particles, the condenser will need to be replaced since this style can't be properly flushed. As long as the O-tube screen is intact, the evaporator should be OK but will still need to be flushed to remove the contaminated PAG oil in the system. I rigged a flushing contraption to do it in place and it seemed to work OK. All the other lines will also need to be removed and flushed and I added an inline filter just before the O-tube, just in case. Since you will be doing the labor, don't skimp on parts-use all new, not rebuilt, items, including a new O-tube of the same color. Pay attention to cleanliness and to the small details and the rebuild will be fine. The forum at Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment - ACKITS.COM has lots of good information.

Send a pm if you need recommendations on parts to use.

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