A leaf went into my intake - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-11-2018, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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I think the block heater seemed to work. I put a new starter on as well. I also took a screen out that is inbetween the regulator and fuel bowl.
When i tryed it seemed a lot more turns acured during starting. I had some white smoke then black and she fired up.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-11-2018, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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I will check. Its may be a combo of things.
There is a heater in the fuel bowl that seems to heat up when you plug in the block wheater. When you start driving if its not working you will start pumping cold fuel and truck will seem starved and cut off. I think mine did this. Im in Florida so i tryed the block heater last after a ton of research.
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-11-2018, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Are you sure your warming to truck all the way up?
Id let it idle on stock until its warmed up if not the block heater.
Mine has always had trubble in the morning!
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-11-2018, 12:13 PM
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I will check. Its may be a combo of things.
There is a heater in the fuel bowl that seems to heat up when you plug in the block wheater. When you start driving if its not working you will start pumping cold fuel and truck will seem starved and cut off. I think mine did this. Im in Florida so i tryed the block heater last after a ton of research.
The 12v fuel bowl heater is not related to the 120v block heater. They are two completely seperate heating elements.

The fuel bowl heater has constant 12v power and operates automatically depending on temperature.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-21-2018, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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Hey, what do you use to clean out the lines? Can you do it with the tank selector valve attached to the lines?
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-21-2018, 01:06 PM
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Air compressor. Lol

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1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-27-2018, 06:03 PM
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A block heater in Florida? Come on. Make sure your glow plugs are working

1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 2.5" axle drop bracket, F350 springs up front, and F350 rear axle blocks. 260k miles. RETIRED.

NEW (to me) 2005 F350 FX4 Crewcab shortbed, SRW, Lariat, auto, V10. 5600 lbs front end.
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-27-2018, 06:25 PM
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A block heater in Florida? Come on. Make sure your glow plugs are working
You bet a block heater in FL. This winter has seen some frost conditions in various parts of FL and I try not to take my diesels out of the driveway until EOT is >100*F and I don't work them until above 150*. Traffic in FL is fast & furious so when you pull out into traffic you better be ready to GO.

Plus I like the floor vent to blow warm air on my bare feet.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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I keep having issues. The thermostat on my 95 f-350 never really gets even to warm. It may have something to do with my grill being so opened up.
Over all it will start up run for a wile and when it starts to get warm it will stall. The fuel bowl will be empty or really low. Ill add 1 1/2 woter bottles of fuel to the fuel bowl until its full. Then i turn the key back and forth waiting 30 secs inbetween. Once i turn it over a couple times and let some air out of the scrader valve it will start back up. Sometimes it will run the rest of the day and others i have to repeat the process.
The truck still never get up to warm unless im hauling and then barley to the normal line only.
I cleaned the fuel bowl and there was a lot of debree in there, changed the filter agian and it seemed to help but this issue keeps comming up with it stalling.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 03:51 PM
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Thermostat has nothing to do with it not starting. The stock temp gauge isn't really calibrated, but if it isn't truly getting up to temp, you're thermostat could be stuck open, or the fan clutch could be staying locked.
Also cycling the key dies nothing. There's no electric fuel pump.

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PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 04:30 PM
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These engines run cool with the stock thermostat. When I had the stock one in I never got the gauge to read above the N. Then after putting in a 203 thermostat it will run on the M.

On the fuel issue it sounds like you have a pump issue, clogged fuel lines, or a problem in the tank.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-29-2018, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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I dropped the front tank and it seemed fine. There was a mod done were there wasnt any filters in the sending unit. And there was some debree. The screen on the foot looked fine. I was having the same problem on both tanks. The fuel bowl was had a lot of debree in it, but whatever it is the truck will run fine but stall as soon as it starts warming up. If i can idle up threw it it will run fine all day.
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-29-2018, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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I havent blown out any lines. Im looking for some info on that now.

Thanks
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-29-2018, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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I aprietate it. Ill check and see if the thermostat is working properly. It just seems to be running cold. I read somewere that the 95 PS should have a 203 degree thermostat in it.
I just would cycle the key to make shure all the glow plugs are heating up properly.
Every now and then i hear a wineing sound
Not sure what it could be. It usually last about 10 seconds
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