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Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Need some help and advice

It has been a good long while since I have been here, Mother nature has not been good to me ( two Strokes) and my truck has been stuck in the back yard idle and about the last thing on my able to do list, has sat there for over a year without running. Yesterday I could stand it no more so I went out to try and start it, no surprise when I found two dead batteries and replaced them, then I changed the fuel filter and gave it a spin, nope, starter dragging real bad for about three turns and no more checked the relay, good voltage, checked the solenoid it makes a pretty solid pop when power is to it and again good voltage, got out my trusty BFH and gave the starter a few light taps, tried to turn over slowly but then stopped, got a new starter on the way.


Is there anything else I should try and do to it or need to do to it?


Any one tried to revive one that has sat idle for a good long while?


Any advice would be appreciated


It is 97 F350 with a 7.3

97 F-350, 410 limited slip, power stroke, tru-cool, transmission temp gauge, crew cab, pretty much all else is stock, 160K miles. pull a 7500 pound travel trailer.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 09:17 PM
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Check the oil, maybe change the fuel filter (if nothing other than to have a look at the fuel in the bowl), and give the engine wiring harness a decent visual inspection. Cheers!

97 F250 SC 4x4 (CA model), E4OD, 4.10 LS,
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, Ext Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD: 94 F350 CC DRW, 5 Speed, SBC Con-O,
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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I did change the fuel filter and cleaned the bowl up.

97 F-350, 410 limited slip, power stroke, tru-cool, transmission temp gauge, crew cab, pretty much all else is stock, 160K miles. pull a 7500 pound travel trailer.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 10:54 PM
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Before changing the starter, MEASURE the voltage from the braided strap at the solenoid to the starter mounting-end housing DURING cranking (whether the starter is spinning or not). If it's 10-14VDC and the starter isn't spinning full-speed, the starter is bad. If it's 7-9VDC, the engine MAY be seized or hydraulic'ed (but neither is likely after only a year).

Measure again from each battery POST to the CLAMP around that post (so you'll be measuring 4 times). If it's higher than 1V (during cranking), the post & clamp need to be separated & cleaned. Click this & read all the captions:


(phone app link)


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply, I will test the voltage at the starter, I made my living in the electrical business and was very critical and meticulous with the battery terminals when I replaced the batteries and did test for drop under load.

97 F-350, 410 limited slip, power stroke, tru-cool, transmission temp gauge, crew cab, pretty much all else is stock, 160K miles. pull a 7500 pound travel trailer.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Just to make sure I tested the terminals again this morning, dead solid perfect, tested from the solenoid lead to the starter to ground, with my remote switch the voltage showed 12.58 v battery voltage showed 12.66 when I tested them before the load test. I see it as a bad solenoid and probably a bad starter.

97 F-350, 410 limited slip, power stroke, tru-cool, transmission temp gauge, crew cab, pretty much all else is stock, 160K miles. pull a 7500 pound travel trailer.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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IT lives! new starter works like a champ, up and running and driving.
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97 F-350, 410 limited slip, power stroke, tru-cool, transmission temp gauge, crew cab, pretty much all else is stock, 160K miles. pull a 7500 pound travel trailer.
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