New Truck - 1996 7.3L F250 - Suggestions? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Talking New Truck - 1996 7.3L F250 - Suggestions?

Hey guys!

New member here. I have just purchased my first diesel truck and therefore my first powerstroke. I bought, off of a relative, a 1996 7.3L manual F250 (XL Package).

The truck has 360,000km (224,000 miles). The motor is running great, cab is in pretty good condition but the 8' box could use some work or simply be replaced.

The relative I bought it off of really diddnt want to get rid of it as it was his baby, but was getting a little to old to jump up into it. In an effort to entice me to buy it as to keep it in the family, he offered, and I bought the truck at $1000 CAD.

Only thing I have had troubles with in the truck is second and third gear. Second you can really only get into at a dead stop (so I start in second) and third is very tough to get into without grinding (I can get into it without grinding by rev matching). Im assuming the syncros are going/gone on second and third.

The truck is currently at my buddies shop getting fluid changes (oil and tranny), filter (air and fuel), new rear leaf spring shackles, new rear fuel tank, new rear shocks and any other odds and ends he feels need fixed.


Seems like I got a great deal! Let me know what you think and if you have any suggestions of what I should do to it.

Thanks,
Greg
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Since owning the truck I have:

-Removed bug deflector

-Removed Side Steps

-Removed handmade Mud Flaps.

-Painted the faded front grille

-Purchased and installed 286/75/16 BFG All Terrain Tires

-Completed work/maintenance previously mentioned

Planned Work:


- Paint wheels black for the time being (until funds emerge for new wheels)

-Sand and reclear headlights
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 02:50 PM
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Nice truck. I would pull front hubs and repack bearings. Change fluid in front/rear axles and transfer case. Flush brake fluid and PS fluid. Do NOT add a chip or programer. Spend money on getting tranny fixed. I prefer skinny tires for better traction in snow/ice and better mpg. Just drive it for a while and see what else comes up. That is a great buy even if you have to add a bit of money for a new tranny.
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-10-2017, 12:41 PM
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You stole that truck, esp. since it's a 4x4. Running good, even with cosmetic or minor mechanical issues, a 4x4 manual SCLB is a $5-6K truck any day of the week.

"Tranny" issue - FIRST thing to check is whether the clutch is fully disengaging. Does it seem to want to engage with the pedal just off the floor?

Make sure your buddy puts SYNTHETIC ATF in the tranny; ZF requires it. Also ask your buddy to look at the old fluid before dumping it; if indeed it's synchros, you'd expect to see it in the fluid.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 02:13 PM
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Good buy!

Seems like there were several TSBs for ZF shifting/declutching problems - you can check here:
Search Technical Service Bulletins
Then ask you buddy to check if any of them have already been done to that truck.

I'd lose that cosmetic headache rack - it won't protect you or the truck, and only adds weight & interferes with the sliding window.

Sanding & spraying headlights is a big waste of time & effort. Shop eBay/Amazon/RockAuto/etc. for new replacements. You can spend as little or as much as you want, but I don't think the expensive ones will last as much longer as they cost. My personal preference is aftermarket projectors because they throw a MUCH-better pattern than direct-replacements. The ones I use are DOT-legal.


https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1030715 (for phone apps)


https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/919759

Without a horrible amount of effort, the chairs & carpet can be pulled out & washed (and the cab floor), which will probably make the cab smell better. (I have sensitive sinuses, so it's always high on my list for any new-to-me vehicle.) It's more work to pull the dash for washing out the HVAC ducts. Pulling all the interior trim is a lot of work, and probably only worth it if it's really funky. But if you pull the rearmost ~3 screws from the front wheelwells, you can access the cowl drains, which almost certainly need to be emptied. You'll understand why when that crap dumps out, so don't be underneath when you mess with them.


https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/901904


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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 10:08 AM
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Great buy on that truck for sure. I'd be looking at fixing trans/clutch issue as soon as possible, to minimize further damage. Give it a thorough, bumper to bumper, inspection. Like stated, full fluid changes and and service what you can. Nice thing about those trucks, you can service wheel bearings and such. Don't forget about greasing too...some tierods and some ujoints can be greased for longer life.

Ask if any brake lines were replaced...the one that runs along the frame, is famous for rotting through right behind the front fuel tank.

Any upgrades done in the power department? These motors like to breathe. When I had my '95, I was shocked to see how the factory downpipe was "squished" to nothing. I added an aftermarket exhaust system and a "Tymar" intake, that gave some added power, but moreover, raised the fuel economy.

Good luck with your new truck. Andy.

2005 F-350 CC, LB, 4x4, Dually, 6.0 Powerstroke, Torqueshift, 4:10 Gears. Gooseneck and rear pull hitches. "Truck Covers USA" roll up aluminum tonneau cover. Putco Boss Running Boards. Aluminum finned diff covers. Bilstein HD shocks. ProComp steering stabilizer. XRF ball joints. NC Hornet CCV mod. RCD egr delete kit. AirDog fuel system. Strictly Diesel's regulated fuel and coolant return lines kits. Amsoil oil bypass (by NUC Motorsports) and homebuilt coolant bypass kits. CFM intake elbow. ARP head studs with factory gaskets and all upgrades. FICM by Ed with Atlas 40 tune, DC Power 185 amp alternator, MBRP 304SS "Cool Dual" exhaust system. SCT Livewire tuner with pyrometer. Autometer 'A' pillar gauges (Boost/Trans temp/Pyrometer/Fuel Pressure). 850 CCA Motorcraft Batteries. Using Rotella T-6 synthetic oil. Upgraded degas tank and cap. Hayes deep aluminum trans pan. GoGo Diesel modified direct clutch solenoid. Retro Solutions HID head and fog lights. High idle mod. Jimmi-Jammers. +More.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-23-2017, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys,

Thanks for the advice! An update on the truck...

Mechanical Work:
-New Front and rear shocks
-New Fuel Tanks
-New Passenger exhaust manifold (Old one had rusted through causing lack of boost in turbo)
-Repaired Turbo Flange
-New Front Brake Rotors
-New Front Brake Pads
-New spring shackles (All 4 in the rear)

Maintenance:

-Oil Change
-Transmission Fluid Change
-Air Filter
-Fuel Filter

Cosmetic Work:

-Sanded and painted wheels
-Sanded and painted rusty rear bumper
-Sanded and painted wiper arms
-Massive interior Clean as I dont think it was cleaned since 1996

Truck is now stored for the winter!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 11:04 AM
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Great job!! Keeping an old truck running is not that hard if you have some basic skills/tools and backup driver. Thanks for the update.
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
Good buy!
X3, or 4 or whatever.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
Without a horrible amount of effort, the chairs & carpet can be pulled out & washed (and the cab floor), which will probably make the cab smell better. (I have sensitive sinuses, so it's always high on my list for any new-to-me vehicle.) It's more work to pull the dash for washing out the HVAC ducts. Pulling all the interior trim is a lot of work, and probably only worth it if it's really funky.
Saw a product to eliminate odors on TV a bit ago. turtle-wax-odor-x-whole-car-blast I don't know the cost, but It may be worth a try as opposed to disassembling the whole interior. You turn on the HVAC and set the aerosol can inside, close the cab and come back later.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 06:38 PM
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Meguiars has some also. They do seem to work.
There's also some ionic air purifiers that plug in to the 12v outlet.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 07:20 PM
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hey simpsy, if you havn't done lights yet, you can get cheap replacements WITH headlamps off ebay for under 100.00 for all 4 front light housings and the two rear taillights, sure maybe they will be faded in a few years... but for 100.00 your still better than buying a single headlight assy from Ford




if your going to put some more power out, do your supporting mods FIRST


just downpipe, straight exhaust and a intake makes a HUGE diff in how the stock truck performs, also check your pedal voltages to make sure it's correctly biased, usually by this time they are off .5 to .8 volts and that makes a big diff on top end







the ZF5 is a easy enough tranny to repair by yourself if your technically minded, it's pretty straight forward, more than likely your syncro is just gone, mine was 1st to 2nd




oh yeah, and get your spare CPS, IPR, ICP and GPR to keep in the glovebox along with a few tools to install said sensors if they go out

-'97 F250HD 4x4 7.3-
-'99 Cobra 426w-
-'76 LS408 Stingray-
-'93 302 Camaro on the juice-

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 08:30 PM
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$100 every few years to support the Chinese economy? I'd rather buy Ford parts - either new, or JY.


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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 09:32 PM
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$100 every few years to support the Chinese economy? I'd rather buy Ford parts - either new, or JY.

I bought Ford headlights for my mustang about a year ago... wana guess where they were made? China


so yeah, id rather keep the 400.00 diff then just giving it to Ford for no reason

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-25-2017, 11:21 AM
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Regardless where Ford/MC parts are made (and many ARE made in China), they LAST LONGER, so it's not "for no reason".

And both Ford & GM pickups are made in USA - does that mean they're identical? So why would you imply that 2 headlights made in China would have to be identical? Even if they're made at the same factory... The Jaguar S-type & the Lincoln LS came off the same assembly line, and they weren't identical. MotorCraft batteries come from the same factory as DuraCraps - they're not identical.

My point is (as it always was) that buying the cheapest parts doesn't pay off - it just keeps the cheapo parts mfrs. in business.


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