Oil Change Confusion 3000miles 4000 miles or 5000 miles??? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Change Confusion 3000miles 4000 miles or 5000 miles???

Well this is my first time owning a diesel engine. Have run a ton of equipment with them and worked on them but oil changes went by hours and not miles. Was wondering wether you change them at 3000miles? 4000miles? or 5000miles? I have a stock 7.3 PSD. Truck is getting around 14.2 - 16.6 mpg depending on city or highway or pulling. Have not done much heavy pulling with it. Right now I am over 200 miles on the 3000 mile oil change. Getting ready to go to florida to bring a car back to nc. I will get my oil changed before I leave because I dont want to fight high prices in florida. I have heard all sorts of mileage to change. So I am coming to you guys for the answer. I am working on getting a processor built to make bio but have not run one drop yet. If you can please let me know about this issue. Also does everyone use rotella? Thats all I know to a diesel. Thanks Guys for your time [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

1997 Ford F-350 7.3 PSD Crew Cab Single Rear wheel
Tymar DIY Cold Air Intake, TYMAR 3x4 Downpipe, EBPV Valve Mod, 4" Stainless Exhaust Straight Piped, Reverse Shackle Kit, Super Duty Springs and Bilstein Shocks at each corner!!!....looking to do more upgrades as I save the money!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 05:40 PM
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Re: Oil Change Confusion 3000miles 4000 miles or 5000 miles???

i use rotella, and i change it at 5,000 miles. -marty

1996 F-350 CC,LB,4x4,E40D by BTS,BDP stage II's,Hypermax H2E,Big Oil,ARP head studs,3"intakes,Comp 910 springs,4 pos. chip w/Jody's and Tony's tunes,electric fuel system,modded IDM,open element intake,6.0 intercooler,Stancor GPR,Hypermax downpipe,Magnaflow 4" stainless exhaust,Perma Cool remote trans filter,B&M 70274 tranny cooler,Interceptor Scan Gauge,a bunch of Autometer Sport Comp gauges,4.56's,RSK w/ V-codes,flipped spring hangers in rear,custom anti-axle wrap bars,315/75-16 Toyo AT II's on 16x10 Eagle Alloys 143's(polished),Warn manual hubs,west coast mirrors from an F-700,Lund sunvisor,Stull polished stainless billet grille,diamond cut headlights,park/turn signal lights,and corner lights
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 06:27 PM
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Re: Oil Change Confusion 3000miles 4000 miles or 5000 miles???

There are a few answers to the question. I for my truck change with Delo every 5,000 miles. but there was a time in my trucks history that I did extended oil changes out to 25,000 mile a change with Amsoil Synthetic and there test kits to tell me if its time or not. Never had the nerve to go more than 25K but there were trucks at that time going out to 50,000 miles before an oil change.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 06:31 PM
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Re: Oil Change Confusion 3000miles 4000 miles or 5000 miles???

I agree with Steve...usually 5,000 miles in correct, but like him (well, use to) I run Amsoil synthetic, and send in an oil sample every 7 - 10K for analysis, and "they" tell me when a change is needed. I do run a dual oil filtration though, so with the stock filter the answer is 5K.

Dale

2009 F450 4X4 Superduty King Ranch
6.4 Diesel, 4.30's.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 06:37 PM
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Re: Oil Change Confusion 3000miles 4000 miles or 5000 miles???

When I first bought my truck with 60k on it I changed it at 3k and the oil was still clean, so I went to 5k using rotella 15-40 and that seems to be working for the past 100k.

Frank


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Oil Change Confusion 3000miles 4000 miles or 5000 miles???

Thanks guys for all the help!!! Really appreciate it. I should be able to make it back from florida before I have to change it. 1400 miles. Thanks again and you guys are the reason I post on this forum

1997 Ford F-350 7.3 PSD Crew Cab Single Rear wheel
Tymar DIY Cold Air Intake, TYMAR 3x4 Downpipe, EBPV Valve Mod, 4" Stainless Exhaust Straight Piped, Reverse Shackle Kit, Super Duty Springs and Bilstein Shocks at each corner!!!....looking to do more upgrades as I save the money!
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 08:19 PM
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Re: Oil Change Confusion 3000miles 4000 miles or 5000 miles???

3k, oils cheep and the engine loves fresh oil!

Cary
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Service Reminders


My website http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html

Service schedule

Service and Maintenance
General Service Intervals & Guidelines
One of the most important, and often overlooked, subjects for car owners is preventive maintenance. Drivers know that they are supposed to change their oil or get a tune-up in order to keep their car running, but usually they will not take a car to a shop unless they notice a problem. That is the whole point to preventive maintenance--to keep the car or truck serviced so major problems do not occur. The purpose of this page is to advise drives as to what they can do and when in order to avoid more expensive repairs.
Keep in mind; much of the information here is subject to driving conditions, habits and manufacturer's recommendations. There is information contained in every owner’s manual about their vehicle's requirements. What kind of oil to use in the engine for example.
Some engines can be damaged if the wrong SAE rating or "weight" oil is used. There is also an API rating that tells if the oil is suitable for use in a gasoline or a diesel engine:
SH or SJ for gasoline engines
CF for off-highway IDI diesels
CG for on-highway IDI diesels
CF-2 for two-stroke diesels
CF-4 or CG-4 for high-speed four-stroke diesels
Generally, a higher second letter in the API rating supersedes previous ones, so a car requiring SC-rated oil can use SJ.
Most vehicles today use automatic transmission fluid for automatic or manual transmissions, but some manuals require special lubricants. Today’s computer-controlled transmissions are more sensitive to fluid break-down and contamination, so it's important to keep up with the recommended service intervals.Not all power steering systems use ATF. Using the wrong lubricant can be as bad as not servicing the system at all.
Tire pressure should be checked when the tires are cold as the pressure do increase as the tires get hot. Maximum air pressures listed on the side wall of a tire are just that, the maximum for that tire, not necessarily the correct pressure for the tire when installed on your vehicle.
As the vehicles suspension settles and components wear, the alignment is going to change, so it does need to be checked periodically. Of course, driving off road, on rough roads or "curb-hopping" is going to affect the alignment as well, requiring more frequent checks.
Extreme driving conditions shorten service intervals as the vehicle is subject to increased stress. Examples of extreme conditions can be constant stop and go traffic driving, driving in hills, towing, dusty or off-road driving, and constant hot ambient temperatures. The fluids in your vehicle are affected by these conditions, and break down faster necessitating more frequent servicing in order to prevent a mechanical failure.
Enough about service guidelines, on to a basic service interval schedule. Mine contains some things that are overlooked by many drivers, which I see almost on a regular basis, as well as personal recommendations.
Once per month
Check all fluid levels under the hood. Automatic transmissions and most power steering fluids need to be checked hot with the engine running check the coolant in the overflow bottle, do not remove the radiator cap. Note any signs of leaks or abnormal conditions--flapping drive belts, bulging hoses. Check tire pressure and look for abnormal wear. If you own a diesel, drain the water separator, if equipped.
Every 3000-6000 miles
Lubricate, Oil and Filter. Harsh conditions require more frequent service than highway miles. Even if you put very little mileage on a vehicle, it still should be done twice a year. A running engine produces gases in the crankcase that break down the oil, even while the vehicle sits. I do mine on 5000 mile intervals to coincide with:
Every 5000 miles
Tire rotation. Front tires usually wear faster than rears because they get some side slip from cornering and have more up and down movement than the rears. It's best to rotate the tires before abnormal wear becomes apparent. When rotating, cross the tires from one axle left to right while rotating the other two front to back. This ensures that the each tire ends up on a different corner of the vehicle than previously, matching the wear patterns on all four. It is acceptable to have a radial tire rotate in a different direction than before providing its tread is not designed to rotate in one direction only. Some high performance tires are directional, as well as some dress wheels. It's easier to remember to rotate your tires if you have it done with another service. If you feel your vehicle needs the oil changed every 5000 miles, then rotate your tires every other time.
Once a year
Have all the lights, the windshield wipers, battery and cables, charging and starting systems, belts and hoses checked and serviced as needed. Have the radiator and air conditioning condenser fins cleaned out. If you can find a shop with a policy of giving credit for any refrigerant recovered from you vehicle's air conditioning system, have the system recovered, evacuated to remove moisture and recharged. Have the entire vehicle inspected for leaks, and the cooling system and radiator cap pressure tested.
Every 15000 miles
Complete vehicle inspection including brakes, chassis fluid levels and steering and suspension components for wear. The wheel bearings, if serviceable, should be cleaned and repacked and the brake caliper slides cleaned and lubed. Have the wheel alignment checked. Have the cooling system ph checked to prevent leaks due to gasket or hose deterioration from electrolysis. In areas with highly alkaline water have the cooling system chemically treated and flushed. The air and fuel filters should be replaced and if you own a very old car (conventional ignition or carbureted), it's time for a tune-up. Diesel vehicles should have a special conditioner added to their cooling system at this time. The additive prevents deterioration of the cylinder walls. The amount depends on cooling system capacity, but the minimum recommended is 4 oz per gallon.
Every 30,000 miles
This should be the first really major service for your vehicle. The services listed above should be done as well as the following. The coolant should be drained and replaced, possibly the system flushed. The trans fluid should be drained and the filter cleaned or replaced. Even if the engine is running fine, at least have the computer system checked for trouble codes and the engine scope analyzed for potential problems. If your vehicle is five years or older, its probably time for a tune-up including an injector service. If you own a diesel, consider having the injection pump timing and glow plug system checked. Diesels also need to have the conditioner added to their cooling system during the service--4 oz per gallon total cooling system capacity is the minimum, 9.6 oz per gallon maximum.
At 60,000 miles
It's pretty much the same as a 30,000 mile service, except that cars newer than five years old should have the spark plugs changed and the fuel injectors serviced. Most of these vehicles don't have the ignition components of the past, and the spark plugs are the only parts that wear. If the throttle body is not deposit resistant, it and the idle by-pass ports should be cleaned as well. If the hoses and belts were original, it would be a good idea to replace them at this point. If your car has a timing belt, it may be time to have it replaced.
At around 100,000 miles
You should have the axle lube changed if your vehicle is a rear or four wheel drive, as well as manual transmission fluid drained and replaced. If the timing belt has not already been replaced, this is about the maximum mileage recommended by most manufacturers, so have it done to prevent being stranded or causing major internal engine damage. If the car has a timing chain, have it inspected for wear or looseness.
The above services can be done by yourself (excluding those requiring special equipment) or by any shop, not necessarily the dealer. Some shops offer free multi-point inspections and services that cover many of the above items. However, it is a good idea to check with the dealer service department as they have access to bulletins and recalls that others may not know about.
Vehicle Service Check List
Service intervals listed are subject to manufacturer recommendations and driving conditions.
60,000 miles
Clean throttle body and idle bypass ports if serviceable
Replace cooling system hoses as needed
Replace timing belt if required
Items listed under 30,000 mile service
30,000 miles
Automatic transmission service
Cooling system service/flush
Diesel engines--Injection timing checked, glow plugs tested and cooling system conditioner added
Items listed under 15,000 mile service
15,000 miles
Complete under-car condition and fluid level inspection
Brake inspection: Front thickness=____/32" or _____% Rear thickness=____/32" or _____%
Clean and lube caliper slides
Steering inspection
Suspension inspection
Wheel alignment
Tire balance, inspect tread wear/depth: LHF=____/32" RHF=____/32" LHR=____/32" RHR=____/32"
Repack wheel bearings
Replace air and fuel filters
Cooling system checked and serviced as necessary; diesel conditioner replenished
Any of the following items as required
5,000 miles
Tire rotation; adjust tire pressures
Replace oil and oil filter; lubricate chassis
Yearly
Check all lights; horn operation
Check belts for wear and tension; condition of coolant hoses
Inspect and service battery and cables
Check windshield wipers
Clean out radiator and condenser fins
Pressure test cooling system and radiator cap
Test charging system, battery and starter
Service air conditioning system
Inspect for fluid leaks
Once a month
Check under hood fluid levels
Check belts and hoses
Tire pressure and condition
Drain water separator
At 100,000 miles
Have axle and manual transmission fluids replaced, the timing chain checked for wear or the timing belt replaced (if original).
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 05:51 AM
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Re: Service Reminders

With 14 qts of oil I figure it should last as long as most big trucks. For the last 200,000 miles I have been changeing my oil with rottella at around 10,000 mile intervals.I now have 369,000+ miles on it with no oil related problems.

97 F250 SC LB 4X4 PSD TDE0, E4OD,3.55's, 285/70/16"s ,Modified fuel tank vents, 375+k headed for 500k
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 09:02 AM
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Re: Oil Change Confusion 3000miles 4000 miles or 5000 miles???

I change mine every 4000 miles except when I'm towing, and then it's at 3000 miles. I've been known to run it 5000, but try to catch it around 4000. Rotella is alot cheaper than a new Powerstroke.
By the way, check your PM's, I'm gonna be sending you one later today.
Chris

1996 F250 XL 4X4 Automatic, 3:55 gears, Regular cab. Cruise control mod. Big tranny cooler. Autometer Phantom boost, pyro and tranny temp guages. Hypermax downpipe. Homemade open air intake. TS 6 position chip. Sonnax valve and tricumulator springs. Billit torque converter. 215,000 miles so far.

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