Rear Window Regulator?? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-27-2018, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Rear Window Regulator??

Hi Everybody,

I'm trying find a rear window regulator for my driver's side rear power window with little luck. All I find is front regulators. Can anyone steer me in the right direction please?

Thanks in advance,

Andy

Edit: The lock for the door is jammed as well. The problem is in the latch mechanism where the rod connects. Can anyone tell me what that is called? I've been stumped on that one as well.

1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!

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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-27-2018, 10:23 AM
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Have you tried Broncograveyard?

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-27-2018, 10:40 AM
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The rear doors work essentially the same way as the fronts, and use some of the same parts (though I'm not sure about the regulators):


(phone app link)


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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-27-2018, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bugman View Post
Yes, and no luck there either. I ordered one for both sides but there apparently is a difference between the front and rears as they unfortunately didn't work in the back.

1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-27-2018, 05:42 PM
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This comes up now and again.
Iirc, you can make the fronta work on the rear. Or you can use the rears from a sd model.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 79jasper View Post
This comes up now and again.
Iirc, you can make the fronta work on the rear. Or you can use the rears from a sd model.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
I'll give that a shot, thanks.

1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 79jasper View Post
This comes up now and again.
Iirc, you can make the fronta work on the rear. Or you can use the rears from a sd model.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Man, I can't find anything on the web... even for the SD. I suppose a search of junkyards is in my future

Can anyone give some insight on how to make the front work on the rear?

1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 07:48 PM
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Andy- is yours a crew cab or extended cab?


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I wonder if clouds ever look down on us and say, "Hey, look - that one is shaped like an idiot!"
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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Andy- is yours a crew cab or extended cab?


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Hi RT,

Mine is a crew cab.

1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 09:25 AM
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So, you're right in that nobody seems to list the rear regulators. I found a really good video showing the procedure. I also stopped the video where he showed his part and compared it to the parts on RockAuto. From the motor orientation, it looks as if the front right and rear left are the same. At any rate, it is almost always the motor that fails, or the plastic gear on the motor. Personally, I would order a set of fronts off Amazon or from your local parts store and then pull the bad unit and compare them on the bench. Alternatively, call Mike at Tousley Ford on Monday and ask him to compare part numbers from the Ford catalog.


2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM

I wonder if clouds ever look down on us and say, "Hey, look - that one is shaped like an idiot!"
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 10:31 AM
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Couldn't find the info I saw before.
I would try the gear replacement.


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1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 03:33 PM
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If it's just the motor drive gear bushings that are gone, it's cheap & permanent to replace them with nuts:


(phone app link)


You don't even have to remove the regulator to do it.


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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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It seems that the rails on the regulator are bent and that's what causes it to stop working. You can spray some silicon spray in there and it works for the rest of the afternoon, but then you're back to square 1.

I ordered some from Parts Geeks, or whatever they're called, both front units, but they weren't compatible. We changed the motor and that too wasn't the problem either. Seems it's the regulator itself.

What about a junkyard? The ones near Austin, TX have nothing, but can anyone recommend a network or even a single junkyard? It seems there are not many options for this issue.

1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 01:39 PM
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Silicone spray isn't the correct lube for the regulator track on the glass. It should be either white Lithium, PTFE, or chassis grease.

But I'm still not sure what problem you're trying to fix. You never actually told us what "square one" is. You just asked about replacement regulators.

Is the window moving slowly through the whole range? Or does it bind at the same spot every time? Or does it bind at a random location each time? Or does it make noise as it moves? Or...??? The more you tell us, the more likely we can help.


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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Silicone spray isn't the correct lube for the regulator track on the glass. It should be either white Lithium, PTFE, or chassis grease.

But I'm still not sure what problem you're trying to fix. You never actually told us what "square one" is. You just asked about replacement regulators.

Is the window moving slowly through the whole range? Or does it bind at the same spot every time? Or does it bind at a random location each time? Or does it make noise as it moves? Or...??? The more you tell us, the more likely we can help.

Good point, sorry for that. The root problem is that the window simply won't move. You can press the master switch or the door switch, and you'll hear that they both are working, but the window doesn't move. We changed the motor on the window and it worked fine for a few days, and then returned to inoperative. We realized part of the actuator may be bent, so with a little lube and straightening, it again worked, but only for a day or so. The window is stuck in the full up position, thankfully. Sometimes, I can press the master switch up and I'll hear a little movement, and then the window is operational, and sometimes it's simply not. If it works, it's a fluke. When we take it apart and spray the silicone, it'll work for a day or so before returning to dysfunction.

1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!
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