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Anyone know if brake cleaner or gasoline will ruin the seal inside the spindle? the one right next to the caged roller bearing. Thanks Dan
1996 F-350 XLT 4x4, e4od, Electronic-rustproofing, Viper alarm
2004, @32k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, Michlelin's, waterpump
2010, @76k mi. Ball joints, u-joints, rotors
2011, @86k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, trany fluid
2012, @94k mi. Bilsteins, stainless brakelines, fuelbowl, lift pump, waterpump, steering lines, coolant filter
2012, @98k mi. Starter, positive cables, batteries
2013, @104kmi 3"downpipe, Michlelin's, steering damper, rotors, rear diff oil
2014, @115kmi. Injector o-rings, alternator rebuild
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Senior Member
Dont use gas xD
If you have a parts washer, it will be fine. Gas would probably work but its not safe at all and makes more mess/stinks/not as good as brake clean. I always just use brake clean for everything. It evaporates fast and washes grease and dirt away. Just go to the parts store and get a case of 12 or just a few if you dont want that many, youll need it later if you ever do a lot of work on your truck.
anthony
If you have a parts washer, it will be fine. Gas would probably work but its not safe at all and makes more mess/stinks/not as good as brake clean. I always just use brake clean for everything. It evaporates fast and washes grease and dirt away. Just go to the parts store and get a case of 12 or just a few if you dont want that many, youll need it later if you ever do a lot of work on your truck.
anthony
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Well, I got her done yesterday and there's no leaks so far (didn’t replace the differential seals). Thanks to everyone for the advice, it most definitely made a huge difference. Here’s my list's in case it could help someone out.
Parts
Hub seals #415960 (Timkin)
Ball joints #707469x (Spicer)
U-joints #DS U-733 (Spicer greasable)
Rolling diaphragm seals #710413 (Moog)
RTV silicone
Gear oil
Anti-seize
4 cans brake cleaner
1 tube Mobil 1 synthetic grease
1 container Mobil 1 synthetic grease
Tools
Spindle puller #10208
Locking hub socket #w83010
Slide hammer (you might need a huge one)
Ball joint press #27023
Ball joint press additional attachments (required) #27165
Impact wrench (an electric impact worked ok)
Jacks and stands
Installation tools for hub seals and rolling diaphragms, 4 inch dia. on the hub seals, 2 on the diaphragms.
Torque wrench,
Thick rubber gloves (tough coat 2 work excellent)
Vacuum cleaner to clean crud out of axle tubes
Sockets, top ball joint 1-1/16 bottom 1-5/16
Cutting torch would be ideal, acetylene worked ok
For anyone doing this for the first time, I recommend getting the nuts all the way off the ball joints, and put them part way back on before knocking the ball joints lose, otherwise, the ball joint will turn and will be hard to get the nut the rest of the way off.
On the end of the axle that goes into the differential, there was a bur all the way around the diameter of the shaft, I filed that off and sandpapered it. I made a huge Q-tip out of a threaded rod and socket and paper towel to get some of the crud out of the axle tubes.
Anti-seized the heck out of everything.
The job cost me about $450.00 including the spindle tool and hub socket.
Parts
Hub seals #415960 (Timkin)
Ball joints #707469x (Spicer)
U-joints #DS U-733 (Spicer greasable)
Rolling diaphragm seals #710413 (Moog)
RTV silicone
Gear oil
Anti-seize
4 cans brake cleaner
1 tube Mobil 1 synthetic grease
1 container Mobil 1 synthetic grease
Tools
Spindle puller #10208
Locking hub socket #w83010
Slide hammer (you might need a huge one)
Ball joint press #27023
Ball joint press additional attachments (required) #27165
Impact wrench (an electric impact worked ok)
Jacks and stands
Installation tools for hub seals and rolling diaphragms, 4 inch dia. on the hub seals, 2 on the diaphragms.
Torque wrench,
Thick rubber gloves (tough coat 2 work excellent)
Vacuum cleaner to clean crud out of axle tubes
Sockets, top ball joint 1-1/16 bottom 1-5/16
Cutting torch would be ideal, acetylene worked ok
For anyone doing this for the first time, I recommend getting the nuts all the way off the ball joints, and put them part way back on before knocking the ball joints lose, otherwise, the ball joint will turn and will be hard to get the nut the rest of the way off.
On the end of the axle that goes into the differential, there was a bur all the way around the diameter of the shaft, I filed that off and sandpapered it. I made a huge Q-tip out of a threaded rod and socket and paper towel to get some of the crud out of the axle tubes.
Anti-seized the heck out of everything.
The job cost me about $450.00 including the spindle tool and hub socket.
1996 F-350 XLT 4x4, e4od, Electronic-rustproofing, Viper alarm
2004, @32k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, Michlelin's, waterpump
2010, @76k mi. Ball joints, u-joints, rotors
2011, @86k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, trany fluid
2012, @94k mi. Bilsteins, stainless brakelines, fuelbowl, lift pump, waterpump, steering lines, coolant filter
2012, @98k mi. Starter, positive cables, batteries
2013, @104kmi 3"downpipe, Michlelin's, steering damper, rotors, rear diff oil
2014, @115kmi. Injector o-rings, alternator rebuild
Last edited by Stan96; 08-21-2010 at 07:08 PM.
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Nice job, thanks for the parts list...will be doing this very soon!
Scott
Scott
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