Stripped Dana 50 4WD spindle, need replacement advice - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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Stripped Dana 50 4WD spindle, need replacement advice

I'm in a bit of a rough situation here. I'm trying to replace my ball joints and had nearly succeeded (after countless incorrect parts and broken tools, including a zerk fitting that snapped off inside a ball joint, necessitating a complete do-over) in getting the hub locker back in and the tire put back on when I managed to completely stymie myself by stripping the wheel spindle. Apparently 200 ft-lbs of torque on 1/4" of threads is too much.

The problem now is finding a replacement spindle. I've looked all over for a part number and can't seem to find it. I've searched the forum but for some reason I'm getting a "server reset" error when I try to go to any promising looking posts.

E-Bay seems to have nothing for me, the local pull a part yard says the nearest spindle is 150 miles and 3/4 days away and the Ford dealership isn't sure they know which part I'm referring to.

Does anyone have a part number for the spindle, or know where I can get one soon?


-nordsmith

1997 F250HD XLT Super Cab, 7.3 DI (Cali - wish I had the Federal), ZF 5 speed manual, 4.10 full float rear, Dana 50 IFS, 4WD manual locking hubs, Moog greasable ball joints, Stancor relay, upgraded downpipe, 2" (I think, they were already there when I bought the truck) add a leafs, DIY Tymar intake, and maybe a chip from a previous owner - I haven't had a chance to look yet. 209k miles or so.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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I have found two part numbers that may work. The first is EOTZ-3105-K, which the parts department at the Ford dealership calls a "Spindle Assembly". They seemed unsure as to whether it was just the spindle or the entire wheel end.

I have also been given F5TZ-3105-A, although information I have seems to indicate that this is for the knuckle and not the spindle.

Either way, these parts are no longer available from the dealership, so I'm still searching. I found a EOTZ-3105-K available at a junkyard in NY for $150 plus shipping, and the VIN shows me that it was a 1994 gasser. I called and the guy said it was definitely for a Dana 50 4x4, but I'm not convinced he wasn't just reading the product description without actually knowing which vehicle it came off of. Does anyone know where I can get this part? My wife is due any day now and with this being my daily driver and only 4WD vehicle I don't want to be stuck.

1997 F250HD XLT Super Cab, 7.3 DI (Cali - wish I had the Federal), ZF 5 speed manual, 4.10 full float rear, Dana 50 IFS, 4WD manual locking hubs, Moog greasable ball joints, Stancor relay, upgraded downpipe, 2" (I think, they were already there when I bought the truck) add a leafs, DIY Tymar intake, and maybe a chip from a previous owner - I haven't had a chance to look yet. 209k miles or so.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 01:35 PM
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I looked at the parts diagram on White Bear Lake Ford which was formerly Tousley and while they show the spindle there is no part number for it and I presume that it is discontinued so the junk yard or someone that has done the Dana 60 swap is your only hope.

Are you sure that you stripped the threads on the spindle and not the nut, usually the nut is the first thing to go. Also if you do go the junk yard route I would ask for the nut also. I don't believe that they were putting the Dana 44 into the trucks in 94 so it should be the 50 that was in the gas truck and will fit.

Have you tried Car-Part.com?

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 01:47 PM
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Check your local driveline shops. IIRC that spindle (assuming you're talking about the tube that the bearings ride on and the axle shaft extends thru) is common to the D44/D50/D60 put in just about every truck of that era. It's a Dana Spicer product, and should still be available.

Here's a Spicer parts diagram. Your axle should be on pages 138-139 (on the bottom, not the pdf page #).
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-9.pdf

From what I can tell, the spindle you're looking for is Spicer PN 620370.

Good luck

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'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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Last edited by klhansen; 01-28-2014 at 01:52 PM. Reason: typo in pn corrected
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 04:02 PM
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Exactly, this is a Dana/Spicer part, not Ford. The dealer is a reseller with their own part number on it is all.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
Here's a Spicer parts diagram. Your axle should be on pages 138-139 (on the bottom, not the pdf page #).
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-9.pdf

From what I can tell, the spindle you're looking for is Spicer PN 620370.

Good luck
Thanks for the resource. You're right, it is the Spicer 620370. The Spicer site seems to have no idea what I'm talking about when I enter that in, however. Apparently Ford isn't the only company that completely brain dumps everything that doesn't pertain to current models.

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Originally Posted by bugman View Post
Are you sure that you stripped the threads on the spindle and not the nut, usually the nut is the first thing to go.
...

Have you tried Car-Part.com?
I checked car-part.com and found a few that should work. I wanted to double check to make sure that the parts were, indeed, stripped before I bought a new(ish) one, but I don't really see any evidence of stripping. The only threads that look like they could possibly be stripped are on the very end of the spindle, and even that isn't very convincing. The threads on the spindle nut look good too.

Basically, I had put the wheel back on, with the bearings that slide down over the spindle inside that. I then put on the inner spindle nut, the one with the pin on it, and torqued it down to 50 ft-lbs (or 60, I'd have to check again). Then I backed it off a quarter turn per the manual and lined up the key on the washer (the one with all the holes in it) with the groove on the spindle. I slipped that down until the pin on the inner nut lined up with one of the holes on the washer. I was in the process of torquing down the outer spindle nut and was up to about 120 ft-lbs (of the 160-210 ft-lbs total) when it suddenly got much easier to turn. I pulled the socket off and the outer spindle nut came off with it. When I put the nut back on and tried to torque it, it didn't seem to be grabbing anything, and I noticed some metal shavings.

So it's stripped, right? But I'm a little confused because I figured I'd be able to see clearly that the threads were missing or had pulled out or something. The presence of the metal shavings, though, seems to be a good indicator to me that something happened.

My question is, when putting the outer spindle nut on, how much thread should there be for it to grab on to? I seem to be having problems getting everything to seat properly. The first time I put it together the axle shaft didn't stick out far enough to get the snap ring on, the second time the axle was good but the outer spindle nut only had about 1/4" to grab on to before it "stripped" out, and now that I've just taken it all apart and reassembled it again, the outer spindle nut only has about 1/8" to grab on to. Does anyone know how much thread I should have to put the outer spindle nut on to? And if I can get the outer spindle nut on past the stripped section, is it okay to reuse? I read another post where someone had a stripped spindle and the universal answer is to just get a different one for the sake of safety.

1997 F250HD XLT Super Cab, 7.3 DI (Cali - wish I had the Federal), ZF 5 speed manual, 4.10 full float rear, Dana 50 IFS, 4WD manual locking hubs, Moog greasable ball joints, Stancor relay, upgraded downpipe, 2" (I think, they were already there when I bought the truck) add a leafs, DIY Tymar intake, and maybe a chip from a previous owner - I haven't had a chance to look yet. 209k miles or so.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 09:07 PM
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If it's anything like a d60, you should have extra threads sticking out after the outer nut is on. sounds like something ain't put together right behind the spindle or you got junk in the rear hub bering, or the rear hub seal ain't slidin over the hump in the spindle that the seal rides on or something, what doe's the other side look like, extra threads right? i bet your spindle is still good, you might need a nut tho. get the shorty zerk fittings, that's what i used and never had a problem, they have to point in a certain direction tho and i think it's outward

1996 F-350 XLT 4x4, e4od, Electronic-rustproofing, Viper alarm
2004, @32k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, Michlelin's, waterpump
2010, @76k mi. Ball joints, u-joints, rotors
2011, @86k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, trany fluid
2012, @94k mi. Bilsteins, stainless brakelines, fuelbowl, lift pump, waterpump, steering lines, coolant filter
2012, @98k mi. Starter, positive cables, batteries
2013, @104kmi 3"downpipe, Michlelin's, steering damper, rotors, rear diff oil
2014, @115kmi. Injector o-rings, alternator rebuild
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-29-2014, 12:48 PM
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nut part number

NAPA should have this, if not try another auto parts store and use the Doorman part number.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

1997 F-350 XLT, 4wd, crew cab, E-4OD,TDE-1, 4:10's (sold it, has 328k miles)
2017 F-350 XLT, 4wd, CC, LB
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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I'll go ahead and pick up a new set of spindle nuts. I went ahead and ordered a spindle from a junk yard one state over. $50 + $20 to deliver, but with the weather here and complete lack of snowplows I don't know when it'll get here. As for the problem of there not being enough threads to get the spindle nuts on, I wonder if it doesn't have something to do with the seals I am using.

I bought the seals in a single box along with a bearing. Part number was National SBK-5, or something like that. They looked different from what I had on there, but they seemed to fit alright. When I tried to put everything together, however, the little notch on the spindle where the snap ring is supposed to fit (the lower one, near the spindle nuts - not the one right near the end) was still inside the spindle, and I determined that the dust seal on the axle - the smaller of the two that came in this kit, and the one that sits right up against the inside of the spindle - was indeed to big. It's just a completely different shape and even though it seemed to work okay it apparently was keeping the axle from extending all the way through the spindle. I ended up just reusing the smaller dust seal, although I'm not sure if that was the right decision. Does anyone have a part number for those seals so I can be sure to get the proper ones? When my spindle gets here I would like to be able to get this all back together in one shot, if possible.

Thanks for all the help so far, I'll keep updating this as I get the appropriate parts.

-nordsmith

1997 F250HD XLT Super Cab, 7.3 DI (Cali - wish I had the Federal), ZF 5 speed manual, 4.10 full float rear, Dana 50 IFS, 4WD manual locking hubs, Moog greasable ball joints, Stancor relay, upgraded downpipe, 2" (I think, they were already there when I bought the truck) add a leafs, DIY Tymar intake, and maybe a chip from a previous owner - I haven't had a chance to look yet. 209k miles or so.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 09:21 PM
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if anyone can verify if the d50 uses the same as the d60, here's what I used

Hub seals #415960 (Timkin)

Rolling diaphragm seals #710413 (Moog)

1996 F-350 XLT 4x4, e4od, Electronic-rustproofing, Viper alarm
2004, @32k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, Michlelin's, waterpump
2010, @76k mi. Ball joints, u-joints, rotors
2011, @86k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, trany fluid
2012, @94k mi. Bilsteins, stainless brakelines, fuelbowl, lift pump, waterpump, steering lines, coolant filter
2012, @98k mi. Starter, positive cables, batteries
2013, @104kmi 3"downpipe, Michlelin's, steering damper, rotors, rear diff oil
2014, @115kmi. Injector o-rings, alternator rebuild
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 10:55 AM
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D50 does use the same inner wheelbearing hub seal as the D60.

Not sure what seal is being referred to as the rolling diaphragm seal.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 05:46 PM
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the rolling diaphragm goes behind the knuckle
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1996 F-350 XLT 4x4, e4od, Electronic-rustproofing, Viper alarm
2004, @32k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, Michlelin's, waterpump
2010, @76k mi. Ball joints, u-joints, rotors
2011, @86k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, trany fluid
2012, @94k mi. Bilsteins, stainless brakelines, fuelbowl, lift pump, waterpump, steering lines, coolant filter
2012, @98k mi. Starter, positive cables, batteries
2013, @104kmi 3"downpipe, Michlelin's, steering damper, rotors, rear diff oil
2014, @115kmi. Injector o-rings, alternator rebuild
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nordsmith View Post
I was in the process of torquing down the outer spindle nut and was up to about 120 ft-lbs (of the 160-210 ft-lbs total) when it suddenly got much easier to turn.
WOW!
I'd double check that torque. Back when I was messing with serviceable wheel bearings on the old 4x4, I sure don't recall having to tighten the locknut that much. Of course I was younger and stronger back then.

on edit: this: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy...rque-spec.html is more like what I remember.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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Last edited by klhansen; 01-31-2014 at 08:53 PM.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
WOW!
I'd double check that torque. Back when I was messing with serviceable wheel bearings on the old 4x4, I sure don't recall having to tighten the locknut that much. Of course I was younger and stronger back then.

on edit: this: Dana 60 wheel bearing spindle nut torque spec - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum is more like what I remember.
You may be right. My information is coming from here, where it says Wheel Bearing Locknut - Outer (Manual Locking Hubs). Looking at it now, "Wheel Bearing Locknut" and "Spindle Nut" sound like completely different things, so I could use someone's confirmation on this. One of the hardest things about this job is the inconsistency of nomenclature from source to source.

1997 F250HD XLT Super Cab, 7.3 DI (Cali - wish I had the Federal), ZF 5 speed manual, 4.10 full float rear, Dana 50 IFS, 4WD manual locking hubs, Moog greasable ball joints, Stancor relay, upgraded downpipe, 2" (I think, they were already there when I bought the truck) add a leafs, DIY Tymar intake, and maybe a chip from a previous owner - I haven't had a chance to look yet. 209k miles or so.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan96 View Post
if anyone can verify if the d50 uses the same as the d60, here's what I used

Hub seals #415960 (Timkin)

Rolling diaphragm seals #710413 (Moog)
The hub seals are what I've seen as "wheel seals", and I have that one in and it seems to be working fine, although I think mine is a National.

The rolling diaphragm seal you mention seems to be what I'm looking for, but I also believe I may need the smaller seal that sits in between the #714013 and the back/base (depending on how you look at it) of the spindle. It's shaped like a flat-ish washer and nestles down into a groove around the hole through which the axle shaft passes.


Still no word on the spindle yet - I really expected it to be here today, but it looks like I'm out of luck until Monday at this rate.


Edit: I originally bought National Bearing/Oil Seal Kit SBK-5, which includes (what looks like) both the 710413 and the 710414. Can anyone confirm that these are, in fact, the same seals?

My issue with the 714014 (that is, the smaller seal that sits in between the base of the spindle and the seal around the u-joint is that it doesn't look the same as the one I just took off. If you look, there is something like a 1/8" or 1/4" rise from the large side of the seal to the narrow side. If I recall, the seal I took off was more like a flat washer. Has anyone else run into this?

1997 F250HD XLT Super Cab, 7.3 DI (Cali - wish I had the Federal), ZF 5 speed manual, 4.10 full float rear, Dana 50 IFS, 4WD manual locking hubs, Moog greasable ball joints, Stancor relay, upgraded downpipe, 2" (I think, they were already there when I bought the truck) add a leafs, DIY Tymar intake, and maybe a chip from a previous owner - I haven't had a chance to look yet. 209k miles or so.

Last edited by nordsmith; 02-01-2014 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Further research, further questions.
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