Stripped Dana 50 4WD spindle, need replacement advice - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-02-2014, 10:01 AM
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if you look on rockauto you'll see both of the moog seals, the 14 is called the inner and the 13 is called the outer, i used the 13 between the axle yoke and the back of the spindle, i don't remember any other parts between the axle yoke and the back of the spindle besides the 13, also don't remember using the 14 at all, the d60 might be different and it's been a while so i can't really be certain
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1996 F-350 XLT 4x4, e4od, Electronic-rustproofing, Viper alarm
2004, @32k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, Michlelin's, waterpump
2010, @76k mi. Ball joints, u-joints, rotors
2011, @86k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, trany fluid
2012, @94k mi. Bilsteins, stainless brakelines, fuelbowl, lift pump, waterpump, steering lines, coolant filter
2012, @98k mi. Starter, positive cables, batteries
2013, @104kmi 3"downpipe, Michlelin's, steering damper, rotors, rear diff oil
2014, @115kmi. Injector o-rings, alternator rebuild
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-02-2014, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nordsmith View Post
You may be right. My information is coming from here, where it says Wheel Bearing Locknut - Outer (Manual Locking Hubs). Looking at it now, "Wheel Bearing Locknut" and "Spindle Nut" sound like completely different things, so I could use someone's confirmation on this. One of the hardest things about this job is the inconsistency of nomenclature from source to source.
yes, the spindle nut and the locknut are two different animals when it comes to torquing them, if you put 160-200 on the spindle nut you'd smoke the bearing in no time, (i think). and what you said about inconsistency of nomenclature, my experience with the dealer is, if you ask them anything about the front axle of an obs they look at you like you have three heads, their diagrams look like kidnergarten drawings, and are useless at identifying parts, at least at the dealer i was at.

1996 F-350 XLT 4x4, e4od, Electronic-rustproofing, Viper alarm
2004, @32k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, Michlelin's, waterpump
2010, @76k mi. Ball joints, u-joints, rotors
2011, @86k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, trany fluid
2012, @94k mi. Bilsteins, stainless brakelines, fuelbowl, lift pump, waterpump, steering lines, coolant filter
2012, @98k mi. Starter, positive cables, batteries
2013, @104kmi 3"downpipe, Michlelin's, steering damper, rotors, rear diff oil
2014, @115kmi. Injector o-rings, alternator rebuild
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-02-2014, 11:55 AM
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The factory manual has these torque instructions:

Inner lock nut - While rotating front disk hub and rotor, tighten 68Nm (50lb-ft) to seat wheel bearings. Back nut off 90 degrees

Outer lock nut - 160-205 lb-ft.

Obviously the locking washer goes between the two.

Spindle nut and wheel bearing locknut are interchangeable terms so long as it's differentiated that there is an inner and outer of each, whichever term you choose to use.

Last edited by Snowtow; 02-02-2014 at 11:59 AM.
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Spindle just came in, inexplicably with a spindle nut off an automatic locking hub attached - no idea. Either way, I'll see if I can't get it thrown on tonight. Thanks for the confirmation of my torque settings, to all and sundry.

1997 F250HD XLT Super Cab, 7.3 DI (Cali - wish I had the Federal), ZF 5 speed manual, 4.10 full float rear, Dana 50 IFS, 4WD manual locking hubs, Moog greasable ball joints, Stancor relay, upgraded downpipe, 2" (I think, they were already there when I bought the truck) add a leafs, DIY Tymar intake, and maybe a chip from a previous owner - I haven't had a chance to look yet. 209k miles or so.
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nordsmith View Post
Spindle just came in, inexplicably with a spindle nut off an automatic locking hub attached - no idea. Either way, I'll see if I can't get it thrown on tonight. Thanks for the confirmation of my torque settings, to all and sundry.
The sender probably put a nut on it to protect the threads.

1997 F-350 XLT, 4wd, crew cab, E-4OD,TDE-1, 4:10's (sold it, has 328k miles)
2017 F-350 XLT, 4wd, CC, LB
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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2014, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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So, you know the bearings that sit inside the wheel and slip down over the spindle? It looks like I was putting that on backwards the whole time, and that's why it wasn't seating properly. Apparently I'm just a dummy. There's a fatter end of the bearing and a skinnier end, and it didn't fit on all the way until I put the skinny end on the spindle first. I got it all back together, but there's a notch around the very end of the axle that seems like it should have a snap ring on it. I can't seem to find the snap ring though, so I'm going to have to dig around until I find it.

The only other question is regarding the spindle socket. I'm using the OTC one with the four teeth sticking straight down from the end of the socket, and it keeps slipping out so badly that I'm having a really difficult time getting the required 160 lbs-ft of torque. Is it possible to use the other kind of spindle socket, with the four internal teeth?

This is the one I'm using:


This is something like what I'm trying to find:


Does anyone have a part number for something like this? Or do I have to keep plugging away with the other kind, no matter how much it keeps slipping off?

EDIT: Can anyone tell me how to resize images? I used the "insert image" button and entered in the urls, but I feel like these images are too big.

1997 F250HD XLT Super Cab, 7.3 DI (Cali - wish I had the Federal), ZF 5 speed manual, 4.10 full float rear, Dana 50 IFS, 4WD manual locking hubs, Moog greasable ball joints, Stancor relay, upgraded downpipe, 2" (I think, they were already there when I bought the truck) add a leafs, DIY Tymar intake, and maybe a chip from a previous owner - I haven't had a chance to look yet. 209k miles or so.
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2014, 10:34 PM
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the socket you are using is the same as the one I used, maybe the nut is buggered, can you turn the nut around and use the other side? again, maybe yours is different than a d60, but there was no snap ring on mine until you put the guts of the locking hubs in, then it was about a three inch diameter snap ring, no snap ring touching the spindle, it snaps into the wheel hub groove.

1996 F-350 XLT 4x4, e4od, Electronic-rustproofing, Viper alarm
2004, @32k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, Michlelin's, waterpump
2010, @76k mi. Ball joints, u-joints, rotors
2011, @86k mi. glowplugs, drag-link, trany fluid
2012, @94k mi. Bilsteins, stainless brakelines, fuelbowl, lift pump, waterpump, steering lines, coolant filter
2012, @98k mi. Starter, positive cables, batteries
2013, @104kmi 3"downpipe, Michlelin's, steering damper, rotors, rear diff oil
2014, @115kmi. Injector o-rings, alternator rebuild
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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2014, 11:29 PM
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I have the type in the lower picture. Just looked for a part number stamped on it and there isn't one. I know it was from NAPA though.

I would Google "Dana 60 spindle socket" to find one or see what NAPA has. Dana 50 and Dana 60 use the same spindle nut, therefore the same socket.
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