Suspected dirty injectors - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #1 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-28-2018, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Suspected dirty injectors

After sitting in my driveway for almost 2 years, I am going to change oil and check few things. I think that the injectors might be dirty. I am considering using SeaFoam as additive in fuel. Is it good or is there another recommendation to use to clean the injectors, other than taking the injectors out to be cleaned by the shop?

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'95 F-350 XLT PSD, CC, 2WD, Garrett Turbo AR 1.1, 5spd ZF tranny, LUK, 4.10 Limited Slip, just added Dual Arm Tenisoner. Just added my ol' vacuum gauge to monitor my vacuum pump.
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post #2 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-28-2018, 04:52 PM
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Personally, I like Hot shots secret once every 6 months I put in the stiction eliminator. I currently have 200,000mi. on this set of injectors and they don't skip a beat truck runs great.

I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Upgrades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!
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post #3 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yea, seen some of them at Tractor Supply Company. Must be good stuff.

The reason why I am thinking of the injectors being dirty, the engine does idle just fine, sitting in the driveway. When I drive the truck around the streets or down the highway, I can feel the engine kinda of stumble or not at the full power. I mean that there is noticeable loss of the power. It only happen during high RPM, not low RPM, which makes me think of injectors being dirty somehow.

I had replaced the o-rings on all 8 injectors with "updated" o-rings for new ultra low sulfur fuel, maybe 14 years ago. I got them at International dealer. $20 bucks per set for each injector.

Wonder if there is another possible cause of this... IPR? That one was never replaced. I do not know if it goes bad or not. How does one determine that IPR was bad or not?

I had the fuel pump replaced about 14 years ago because it leaked at the weep hole. I checked it while it was out, I am able to push the tappet (not sure what it was called) and it pump the fuel out as expected.

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post #4 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 11:30 PM
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I would think a dirty/poor working injector would show problems at all RPM's. It wont hurt to run some cleaner of you choice, but, I would clear all the codes then drive a bit and see what they show. I would suspect the under cover harness or fuel delivery (pre injector) problem.
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Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #5 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 02:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluenavigator View Post
After sitting in my driveway for almost 2 years, I am going to change oil and check few things. I think that the injectors might be dirty. I am considering using SeaFoam as additive in fuel. Is it good or is there another recommendation to use to clean the injectors, other than taking the injectors out to be cleaned by the shop?
I would use a BioDiesel product like B20 before SeaFoam. I think HotShot is great for 6.0 stiction but I would run a diesel specific treatment by Power Service that removes water and also be prepared to add one that is a biocide.

If a truck sat for 2 years I would be concerned about condensation having gotten into fuel and possibly microbial growth.

Ofcourse, if you live in cold climates it might be hard to find B20 this time of year.

If you’re only experiencing this issue at higher RPMs, have you considered a dirty fuel filter? What does it look like? If you haven’t drained the fuel bowl on a truck that sat 2 years then I would drain it into a clear glass jar.

I would do this after driving it long enough to transfer fuel from the tank into the fuel bowl.

And post the picture if you get a chance.


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NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 12-31-2018 at 02:03 AM.
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post #6 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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I would clear all the codes then drive a bit and see what they show. I would suspect the under cover harness or fuel delivery (pre injector) problem.
DENNY
My truck is not exact OBD II compatible (maybe wrong word but...) - I can plug OBD II scanner but it wouldn't read/pull anything. I think that I need it to be reflashed or have correct scanner that can read OBD for PSD only. That's what I believe. If anyone have good scanner that can read the codes, please let me know. For my scanner, it is INNOVA 3130c "FIX Assist ScanTool w/ABS."

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If a truck sat for 2 years I would be concerned about condensation having gotten into fuel and possibly microbial growth.

If you’re only experiencing this issue at higher RPMs, have you considered a dirty fuel filter? What does it look like? If you haven’t drained the fuel bowl on a truck that sat 2 years then I would drain it into a clear glass jar.

I would do this after driving it long enough to transfer fuel from the tank into the fuel bowl.

And post the picture if you get a chance.
The fuel bowl was pulled already as I replaced the fuel lines and fuel regulator screen and ball. The screen fell off when I opened the fuel regulator on the fuel bowl. The filter was medium brown, which I know that it is not good anymore.

I had replaced air filter, oil filter and oil. For the fuel, I would like to believe that it had 4 gallon remaining. I just had it filled to full, mixed with SeaFoam and Power Service "Clear-Diesel." Will drive my truck around for a while and pull the filter and see if it get dirty or not. I drove only maybe 4 miles after refill.

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Last edited by bluenavigator; 12-31-2018 at 09:40 AM.
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post #7 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluenavigator View Post
My truck is not exact OBD II compatible (maybe wrong word but...) - I can plug OBD II scanner but it wouldn't read/pull anything. I think that I need it to be reflashed or have correct scanner that can read OBD for PSD only. That's what I believe. If anyone have good scanner that can read the codes, please let me know. For my scanner, it is INNOVA 3130c "FIX Assist ScanTool w/ABS."


You need to get a scanner that can read Fords codes 99% of them out there can not read them. If you have a laptop check into Forscan. It is a free program that runs on a laptop and will do a lot of diagnostics on these trucks. If you don't have a laptop then look into what you can do with your phone.

https://www.powerstrokenation.com/fo...s-android.html

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #8 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 11:18 PM
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You mentioned you added Power Service Clear. Thats a great product specifically for your issue of sitting 2 years and it works even better when its a 1-2 punch added with Biocide by Power Service.

https://powerservice.com/wp-content/...letin_2016.pdf

This may not be your entire problem but helps.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #9 of 58 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Have been driving my truck for couple days. I noticed that it shakes when I got up to 40 MPH then keep shaking until 45 MPH. Then It goes away as I go up over 50 MPH. I am able to drive at 60 MPH with no shake. I watch the tacho. I didn't go over 2250 RPM. Then at every red light, I started over and watch everything going on. After this, I suspected that it is not injectors at all.

Right now, I am suspecting bad tires as they could be out of balance. One more thing to think about... driveshaft. Anyone experience bad driveshaft or that it went out of balance?

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post #10 of 58 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 02:54 PM
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Tires, and U-joints are the first things I would look at. I have several u-joints go over the years. Had a tire come apart last summer took out the driver side fender.
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Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #11 of 58 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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How long are those U-joints supposed to last? Last night, I replaced all three u-joints with the ones with the oil fittings installed. Drove around a bit. Shaking is still there but much less... Next stop - tire shop to do the balance all four tires.
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post #12 of 58 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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After driving my truck for a while, on way to my work, which is a good 16 miles, ranging from stop to 55 MPH, shifting through. With the shaking going on, I am starting to think that it is the clutch going bad. Is it possible that clutch go bad after long sitting in the driveway? It used to have dual mass flywheel. Replaced it with LUK setup in 2004.

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'95 F-350 XLT PSD, CC, 2WD, Garrett Turbo AR 1.1, 5spd ZF tranny, LUK, 4.10 Limited Slip, just added Dual Arm Tenisoner. Just added my ol' vacuum gauge to monitor my vacuum pump.
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post #13 of 58 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 10:42 PM
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I don't think sitting would hurt it.
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #14 of 58 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 11:25 PM
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Your tires have all passed an inspection and been re-balanced at a shop since you started driving it again?


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #15 of 58 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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For the state inspection, they only checked the thickness of remaining thread. I hadn't get the tires balanced yet. I am going to do that this weekend or next.

Oh, you mean the tire shop do the inspection on the tires? Doh! My bad!
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'95 F-350 XLT PSD, CC, 2WD, Garrett Turbo AR 1.1, 5spd ZF tranny, LUK, 4.10 Limited Slip, just added Dual Arm Tenisoner. Just added my ol' vacuum gauge to monitor my vacuum pump.
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