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Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Tranny Trouble

Hi all. New to the forum and soaking up the info around here. For a little bit of background, I've been running my '94 F350 4x4 SRW Auto IDI for a few years and love it, but am now moving on to a '97 F250 4x4 Auto PSD extended cab long bed. The new truck has 236k on it, and the previous owner said he did a new filter and fluid change on the tranny about 6k ago. The truck shifts well, but started throwing a transmission code P1728 (slipping). This only seems to happen once it is warmed up after a few miles. It also does not seem to set the code if I drive it with overdrive off. I am leaning toward a torque converter issue, but am wondering if it is worthwhile to pull the valvebody, replace the converter solenoid and put it back together to rule that out before yanking the whole tranny. Also, what is everyone's feelings on the Transgo tugger kit? They seem to get favorable reviews, but is it worth doing at the same time I do the solenoid? Thanks!

1997 F-250, Long Bed, Ext Cab, 4x4, 7.3, E4OD. All stock....for now.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 11:35 AM
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Did he say what brand fluid he put in? Does it have the external filter Ford recommends adding?


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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 11:51 AM
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The P1728 code can only set when in fourth gear. So if you turn off overdrive it will never set.

I can rule out the solenoid from here. The problem you have is common in those years. The apply piston for the torque converter lockup clutch has developed a crack. It leaks pressure which allows the clutch to slip. The PCM sees the slip and sets a code. The crack will leak more the hotter the trans gets as the fluid thins out. The only way to fix this is to replace the torque converter.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Mark.

Is it likely that just replacing the converter will solve my woes? Are there any converter recommendations? I doubt I ever stray from the stock injectors. Also, is that Transgo kit reccomended for these, or is it snake oil?


To fill in the other gaps, no idea on the fluid and no on the external filter.

Thanks!
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 03:36 PM
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Most likely a new converter will fix it. I only know stock converters, I can't recommend any other than that.

I've used a Transgo kit once. It made a difference. It wasn't huge, but it was firmer.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Any danger in continuing to run it? I don't want to toast the transmission....

Also, since I'm looking at parts, is the valve to change over to complete converter lockup instead of of modulation an actual improvement or an answer without a question?

Thanks!
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 10:06 PM
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Modulation started in 1999. You don't have it.

If you did, you don't gain anything by changing it. Both methods get complete 100% lockup. Only the means of getting there changes.

In the older system that you have the solenoid is on or off. When it is turned on the rate of the converter clutch apply is controlled by a hole in a separator plate. Pressure can only go through the tiny hole so fast. With the modulated system the rate of apply is controlled by the computer modulating the solenoid. This gives far greater control and can make the lockup more consistent. The computer monitors the apply time and can adjust on the fly so that the lockup always takes the same amount of time. This system also gives more control to allow the converter clutch to slip for a fraction of a second during a shift, which helps with shift feel.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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You are a wealth of knowledge, thank you.

Any risk to the rest of the tranny running it until I get to swap the converter?
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-30-2017, 09:03 AM
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No, there isn't. This type of failure doesn't generate particles. The converter clutch will glaze if it slips enough. Then it slips more, but it doesn't wear.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Picked up a converter today. Take off unit with zero miles from a Ford reman 4R100 transmission. Seller wanted to put a triple clutch in to hold up to a new tuner and Banks parts. Picked it up for dirt cheap. Hooray for me. Now I intend to get the Transgo kit, rear main seal and a new bypass valve and we'll be off to the lift.

Also wanted to ask about temperatures. I'm using a Kindle Fire hooked up to a cheapo Bluetooth OBDII adapter and the Torque app to do some monitoring. Since I am reading the sensor the computer is reading (I believe it to be on or near the solenoid pack, correct me if I'm wrong), what temperatures should I be seeing? I replaced the factory cooler with a larger unit, but can't see where it made any discernable difference. Forty five minutes or so of empty driving still ends up around 190 or so.

1997 F-250, Long Bed, Ext Cab, 4x4, 7.3, E4OD. All stock....for now.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
Did he say what brand fluid he put in? Does it have the external filter Ford recommends adding?
Is there a specific kit, or will essentially any remote mount do? I have a remote mount hanging in the garage that relocated the engine oil filter on an old Mercedes diesel that I pulled for a project a while back.

1997 F-250, Long Bed, Ext Cab, 4x4, 7.3, E4OD. All stock....for now.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVshooter View Post
Also wanted to ask about temperatures. I'm using a Kindle Fire hooked up to a cheapo Bluetooth OBDII adapter and the Torque app to do some monitoring. Since I am reading the sensor the computer is reading (I believe it to be on or near the solenoid pack, correct me if I'm wrong), what temperatures should I be seeing? I replaced the factory cooler with a larger unit, but can't see where it made any discernable difference. Forty five minutes or so of empty driving still ends up around 190 or so.
The sensor is on the solenoid body. Normal temperatures are anywhere from 60-100°F above ambient. 190°F is fine.

As for coolers larger isn't necessarily better. If the new one is a tube and fin design instead of a stacked plate it will be no better than the stock cooler, possibly even worse.

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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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I put on a stacked plate 11"X11 5/8" cooler. I would have expected to see some sort of drop. I'm questioning if I may have a flow issue to the cooler and the bypass is opening.

Also, not sure but two other symptoms that I have noticed. I get a slight bounce on my speedo needle at highway speeds and occassionally it will seem to freewheel down hill, especially if I kick it out of OD. It doesn't do this all the time, though.

1997 F-250, Long Bed, Ext Cab, 4x4, 7.3, E4OD. All stock....for now.

Last edited by WVshooter; 09-20-2017 at 10:19 AM. Reason: Additional info
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 11:36 AM
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That's not a very large cooler. Is the ATF still routed through the transmission cooler in the radiator?

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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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It's a good bit larger than the stock. Not sure what good the rating on the box really is, but the manufacturer recommends it up to 30,000lbs. The fluid is routed through the radiator first, then to the aftermarket cooler, and on back to the transmission.

1997 F-250, Long Bed, Ext Cab, 4x4, 7.3, E4OD. All stock....for now.
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