What are these called?? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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What are these called??

Hi Guys,

I noticed the rubber boots are ruptured and leaking grease as circled in the pic. Should I replace the bars (don't know what they're called) that are labeled 1 and 2, or should I just replace the boots which I assume are tie rod ends???? They are original with @ 280k miles on them for what it's worth.

Thanks in advance for your help!!

Andy
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1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 09:13 PM
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If they aren't leaking that bad and the tie-rod ends are still tight, you can just drive on.

New tie-rod ends come with boots, so if you replace them, your leak problem is solved.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 09:21 PM
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There really shouldn't be a leak per say but as you add grease through the zirt it will bulge the boot out and a slight amount will come out on either the top of the bottom. If you don't wipe it off I guess that some would call it a leak. But the grease should be heavy enough that it won't actually drip.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. It doesn't drip per say, but the rubber boots are ripped and have peeled back a bit. Is this operable or should I replace them?

1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 10:24 PM
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If they're ripped open, they should probably be replaced. Have the tie-rod ends ever been replaced? If not, it's probably time. You might be able to find the boots separately, but you'd have to get the tie rod ends loose anyhow, so might as well replace the joints along with the boots.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
If they're ripped open, they should probably be replaced. Have the tie-rod ends ever been replaced? If not, it's probably time. You might be able to find the boots separately, but you'd have to get the tie rod ends loose anyhow, so might as well replace the joints along with the boots.

They've not been replaced in the 13 years I've owned the truck. I'll go ahead and buy some in that case. How does this look?

https://www.1aauto.com/1985-97-ford-...=913001&y=1995

1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!

Last edited by Andyandtherman; 03-28-2019 at 06:35 AM.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 11:06 AM
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I think that for the front end parts I would stick with a company such as Mogg.

This is one area that you don't want the part to fail when you are traveling at 60 mph.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 04:57 PM
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What bugman said. Get name brand stuff.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
What bugman said. Get name brand stuff.
Will do, and thanks!!! I have no idea what name brands are other than OEM, so that tip is invaluable... especially as you say, going down the road at 60!

1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 06:38 PM
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Also if you have never replaced tie rods and tie rod ends be real careful.

Usually the tie rods themselves are not bad. All they consist of is a metal bar with threads on the ends with a adjustment.

But when you take out one of the ends, count the rotations as you unscrew it. Then place the new one in and count the rotations until it is the same as the old one. Do this on all of them.

Then once you get it all done take it into a alignment shop and get it aligned. If you do it careful it should be close.
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 12:45 AM
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An easy way to get the tie rod ends out (at least the ones that are vertical with the nuts on the bottom) is to use a jack to put some pressure on after backing the nut flush with the end of the stud, and then smacking one side of the eye while holding a bigger hammer against the other side. They usually pop loose that way. Normally, a pickle fork is used, but they tend to tear things up if not used correctly. Easy to mess something up with a pickle fork.

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'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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Will do, thanks again!!

1995 F350 XLT Regency Conversion 4X4, 7.3L Powerstroke. 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers. 6" Suspension Lift, Front Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5125s, Sulastic Rear Shackle Kit, Superchips Programmer, Intake Kit, Down Pipe, Free Flowing Exhaust, Etc.

0-60 in 20 minutes flat!!!
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 10:12 AM
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If this were mine, I'd just do the whole front end at the same time - ball joints, inner / outer tie rod ends, track bar bushings, sway bar bushings - just get it done and pay for one alignment. MOOG is good. I wouldn't hesitate to use Motorcraft it the price is better. Rockauto has good prices.

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM, Full Force Stage 1 injectors

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 08:12 PM
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Look at the bottom of this page:
https://www.energysuspensionparts.co...cri=8,1&filter

Those are vastly better than OE or OEM or any other on the market.


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