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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Body Work

I recently noticed some bubbling of paint around the top of my rear wheel well. Upon further inspection I noticed that the outer body of the bed is crimped at this point and tucked together with the wheel well with no sealer employed. Thus, an open seam for moisture intrusion.

Seems like an easy fix but will require some sanding of the exterior surface and I was wondering on what product would be best suited for this type of repair. I haven't done any body work in years so the products that come to mind are Bondo, Black Magic or fiberglass resin and cloth. Is there something better out there?

Also the paint is whit with a clear coat. Do I color match and than apply a second coat of clear over the paint? Thank you for any responses.

1994 F250 HD, IDI Diesel, 3:55 gears, K&N filter, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Monroe HD SensaTrac shocks, dual pillar pod with temp & tranny guage, poly fuel tanks,aluminum racing radiator
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 06:17 PM
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Bondo makes a plastic body filler with fiberglass in it called bondo-glas. It's fine. Fiberglass cloth is still the stuff. The best repair is still to weld in a patch, but you still have to blend it with body filler. The key thing to know is that when you don't have a metal backing, you must use a plastic body filler rather than one based on gypsum. That's because otherwise you'll draw moisture from the back side, and the moisture will spread throughout the filler and then rust away from the surface.

For small holes you can clean the area and remove all rust, then prime the area and then apply plastic body filler over that. Some will say body filler should always be used over primer, some say never use it over primer, I say follow the instructions.

Is the paint actually clear coated? If so, then yes, you color match and then re-clear. First you want to use 500 wet or similar (for example a green scotch-brite) to dull the paint all around the affected area, larger than the area you will be spraying with clear. Then sand the paint with 180 dry on a D.A. (that's ideal anyway) to a feather-edge, spray primer if you have any metal to cover, and then spray your color, then your clear, with appropriate dry times between coats.

If the paint is actually a single-stage, which can look like it has a clear coat but is very thin, then you just feather edge and spray. You can use a little clear coat applied correctly to match the finish. If the finish is dull then you spray far from the surface so it comes on "Dry", etc etc.

Typical sealers used for auto body seams of the era include butyl and mastic. I like a stuff called trempro 636. I get it from vintagetrailersupply. it is low- or no-voc depending on how long ago it was made, it has a nice long dry time, and you can apply more of it later unlike silicone.

1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
1997 Audi A8 Quattro 225k Warm/Cold packages
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-10-2013, 07:46 AM
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I went to maaco,they have a plastic patch panel. they cut out the effected area install the panel and paint per your request.They did one side of my truck for just under 400.00

1994 f-350 crew cab,7.3 turbo diesel k&n ram air,e4od but want a zf5 road 4wd. 5" exhaust stacks.body rebuilt in 2010.
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