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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018, 05:18 PM
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When spinning it on the starter, do the injector lines put any fuel out? If not then check the fuel shutoff valve. Key on, unplug the wire, and listen for a "click.

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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Injectors are getting fuel but I will check for the shut off click.
I will say injectors don't seem as strong as they were before all this happened

Last edited by Datnoisey7.3na; 02-19-2018 at 06:25 PM. Reason: Add info
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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018, 06:48 PM
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If the injectors are getting fuel, then the fuel is leaving the IP. Temps. in the 70s or negative teens, the engine will not start without glowplugs. Try plugging it in, for a couple of hours. You only need three things for it to run...Fuel, heat, and oxygen. One of those things missing, it won't run. Compression supplies heat, with the help of the glowplugs (on start-up). Injector pump, and injectors supply fuel. Intake manifold supplies oxygen. Are the valves opening and closing? What is compression like? Since everything else seems to be there it might be time to start checking the major stuff.

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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Datnoisey7.3na View Post
Ok replaced all rubber hoses now have tons of fuel coming from Schrader valve. Pulled IP but put it back making sure the Ys where touching
Issue now is the truck won't start. I can use a little mix gas and it will start or attempt to start but that's it. I also tried starting it from inside the cab and it did sound like it wanted to but never started and I don't see fuel or mist in the carb bowl.

I'm stuck and need my truck.
Also the injectors are primed
Carburator bowl???!! Is this a gas engine??? They operate, and run completely different from oneanother.

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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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its a diesel I'm just unsure as to what to call the bowl other than intake or carb.
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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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Checked this morning injector lines aren't producing well it's tiny squirt squirt dribble then nothing until I try recranking. Disconnected shut off and got a very low click. Have 2 connectors together the one closest to the radiator clicked the second never made a sound.
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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 08:15 AM
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That's about all you'll vet out of the lines.

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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 09:44 AM
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Following.
As my fuel filter light also comes on but only when it's really cold out.
So it's not a fuel pressure sensor it's a backside vacuum sensor... Good to know
(my fuel is not gelling because we have treated fuel in Canada)

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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 11:01 AM
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There's no bowl. You probably poured the fuel directly into the intake manifold. The engine will burn that directly; that won't tell you anything about whether the injectors are firing or getting fuel.

To expand on jasper's post, it's the injectors that create the pressure. With the injector in the stream, the whole line is under very high pressure. But if you crack the line and crank, it comes out surprisingly weak.

You mentioned it's soaking the return lines. You mean externally? If so, you have either massive air intrusion, or leaking injectors themselves. Are all the return caps snapped down tight? How old are the return lines/caps/o-rings?
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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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I'm unsure of the age however I have new ones on the way they should be here Thursday.

My big issue is the injector lines stop squirting fuel after the initial 2 squirts.

Also I noticed the pump itself is heating up after several cranking attempts . is this normal?

So far I've replaced the 4 rubber fuel lines coming from the tanks the lift pump the fuel filter and removed and replaced the injector pump I did have to retime the ip.
The fuel filter light issue ended up being a collapsing rubber hose.

I have super strong pressure now at the Schrader valve on the filter housing and am getting fuel at the injector lines but it is only on initial start up if I continue turning the engine over the lines quit pumping.

Still not starting it attempts to on initial attempt at starting then each time I spin the engine over it attempts to but that's it
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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 12:07 PM
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Tell me in detail how you changed the IP.

Did you remove the IP with the gear housing attached to it?

Did you turn the engine over with the IP off ?

What do you mean when you said you lined up the Y marks ?

92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight

IDI firing order 12734568--------1&4-2&5-7&6-3&8 Cyl's @ TDC. 1&4 TDC when timing mark is @ 0. Each 1/4 turn, next 2.
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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Tell me in detail how you changed the IP.

Did you remove the IP with the gear housing attached to it?

Did you turn the engine over with the IP off ?

What do you mean when you said you lined up the Y marks ?
I replaced the pump with another one I have to see if it was the pump. At the time I did not know that the pump had to be timed the second pump didn't do anything so I removed it checked on here to see how to install and what I read was the y between the teeth on the engine gear needed to be straight up and the y on the gear tooth on the pump needed to be straight down fitting between the other teeth.

I set the original ip teeth like I read and reinstalled it. And yes I removed the gear housing with the pump as I did not know any better at the time.

I then turned over the engine and had the injector lines barely loose I turned over the engine until the injectors were showing signs of fuel and then tightened the injector lines. Then turned the engine over trying to start the engine.

I later took an injector line loose to see the fuel coming out and how often.
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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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And yes I did turn the engine over with the ip off but the ignition was off I did this to get the y on the engine gear in the up position
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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-22-2018, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Datnoisey7.3na View Post
And yes I did turn the engine over with the ip off but the ignition was off I did this to get the y on the engine gear in the up position
I would venture to say that that's why it won't start. The engine can be a 180* out of time if you didn't bring #1 piston up to TDC on the compression stroke. It don't make any difference if you had the IP off or not or the ignition turned Off. If you can see the Y, you have the engine way out of position. The Y on the IP gear has to be in line with the Y on the Cam gear.

The mark on the damper pulley has to be lined up with the O mark on the timing plate, and that is with the engine #1 cyl. TDC on the compression stroke.

The dowel pin slot on the IP will determine it's position and timing.
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92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight

IDI firing order 12734568--------1&4-2&5-7&6-3&8 Cyl's @ TDC. 1&4 TDC when timing mark is @ 0. Each 1/4 turn, next 2.

Last edited by Trucker87; 02-22-2018 at 11:30 AM.
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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 07:47 PM
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Trucker87 keep killing it man, dang your a wealth of knowledge.
So it WAS as you said a kinked hose that caused the fuel filter light to come on....i will be tracing my lines when its not -40 outside haha

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