Same fuel problem as always - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 07:57 AM
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Well, I'm on my 2nd 7.3l IDI and I've owned or worked on plenty of GM 6.2l & 6.5l diesels, which have the same fuel system for all intents & purposes, and have never had any undue trouble with either the mechanical lift pump or air in the fuel system. I have had leaks in the return lines, but replacing them took care of that in every case. With the 7.3l it's important not to disturb the return like caps any more than absolutely necessary, which is why the best way to replace them is to remove the system completely and make up the new one on a bench. Then you can install it in 1 shot without having to rotate the caps to connect the lines.
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I'm on my 2nd 7.3l IDI and I've owned or worked on plenty of GM 6.2l & 6.5l diesels, which have the same fuel system for all intents & purposes, and have never had any undue trouble with either the mechanical lift pump or air in the fuel system. I have had leaks in the return lines, but replacing them took care of that in every case. With the 7.3l it's important not to disturb the return like caps any more than absolutely necessary, which is why the best way to replace them is to remove the system completely and make up the new one on a bench. Then you can install it in 1 shot without having to rotate the caps to connect the lines.
I have no idea why you guys jump into threads with 6.2 & 6.5 knowledge, 6.2 is garbage, 6.5 fuel system is worse than 7.3 because they added electronics to it. Point is this is a delicate troublesome fuel system & what I've posted is a alternative way to fix a problem. It's a proven fact with the early duramax that the best way to cure injector failure is adding a electric air dog pump system. IHC finally went to electric pump in late 90's, it's 2014 & there are better ways to fix things now.
Also this is my thread & I'm tickled with my truck now, had a great week financially because the truck started everyday, these are a business not a hobby, the 3 hours I lost Sunday would have paid for electric pump & coffee. I started this thread out of frustration & ending it with a solution.
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 11:58 AM
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Because the 6.2 has a nearly identical fuel system as the 7.3l, and the only difference with the 6.5 is the electronics. The IP operates the same way. Same goes for Onan 4L23 and 6A34. But fine, you don't want the point of view of someone who's been operating and working on DB2 systems with flexible return lines for close to 20 years now, and whose idea of how to repair a problem isn't to slap an electric fuel pump bandaid on it, it's no skin off my back. Good luck.
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 12:00 PM
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And did you just mention the Duramax after calling me out for mentioning the. 6.5l in a thread about mechanically injected diesels?
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-21-2014, 12:35 AM
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what I've posted is a alternative way to fix a problem.
You didn't fix the problem. Temporary solution at best. You have an air intrusion somewhere, and it will start leaking fuel out as well.

1991 F350 7.3 IDI cclb 4x4, was e4od now zf5, 4:10s, Ats 093 turbo, 3" dp to 4" exhaust, IP turned up 3 flats
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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-21-2014, 03:23 PM
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You didn't fix the problem. Temporary solution at best. You have an air intrusion somewhere, and it will start leaking fuel out as well.

yup, masking a problem isn't a repair, now instead of air leaking in you are worse as eventualy fuell will leak out, or eventualy just more air will be sucked in depending on where the leak is.

you can convert to an electric driven fuel system, but then you must make ALL the correct modes to keep it working in that paradigm.

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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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And did you just mention the Duramax after calling me out for mentioning the. 6.5l in a thread about mechanically injected diesels?

The point is the manufacturer made a mistake when this was produced, solutions were thought of by diesel shops & individuals on how to fix it. These solutions I'm sure are not thought of by some as "proper".

The 2 major flaws of the 6.9/7.3, no filter in front of mechanical pump & no hand primer pump. These are 2 items that almost every other mechanical injected diesel have. The electric pump conversion has rectified this on mine.

1991 F350 custom DRW, 4x4, 11' service box, 7.3

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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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You didn't fix the problem. Temporary solution at best. You have an air intrusion somewhere, and it will start leaking fuel out as well.

Every diesel engine has the possibility of a external leak, these are usually repaired within a adequate time period.

1991 F350 custom DRW, 4x4, 11' service box, 7.3

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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Because the 6.2 has a nearly identical fuel system as the 7.3l, and the only difference with the 6.5 is the electronics. The IP operates the same way. Same goes for Onan 4L23 and 6A34. But fine, you don't want the point of view of someone who's been operating and working on DB2 systems with flexible return lines for close to 20 years now, and whose idea of how to repair a problem isn't to slap an electric fuel pump bandaid on it, it's no skin off my back. Good luck.

Almost 20 years is respectable, I'm in my 23rd year now & independent for the last 18. This fuel system has flaws compared to others. A inline bosch pump with a hand primer pump is the most reliable mechanical fuel system I have been around. These DB2 systems will never be near as good, I'm simply trying to improve mine.

1991 F350 custom DRW, 4x4, 11' service box, 7.3

1982 Mercedes 240d
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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to work the last 7 days in a row with absolutely no starting issues, logged in over 400 miles completely trouble free. Might not be "proper" in some peoples eyes, but 3 more days of this & I leave town on vacation, a big thanks to a $80 electric pump.

1991 F350 custom DRW, 4x4, 11' service box, 7.3

1982 Mercedes 240d
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post #26 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 11:46 PM
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I was able to work the last 7 days in a row with absolutely no starting issues, logged in over 400 miles completely trouble free. Might not be "proper" in some peoples eyes, but 3 more days of this & I leave town on vacation, a big thanks to a $80 electric pump.
I have almost 200,000 trouble free miles logged on my original fuel system. Point is, a primer pump isn't necessary if your fuel system is in good working order. Theres nothing improper about an electric pump, and it would be handy to use to bleed the system after having it exposed to work on, but if you have to bleed the system every time you start the truck you have another issue that isn't fixed.

1991 F350 7.3 IDI cclb 4x4, was e4od now zf5, 4:10s, Ats 093 turbo, 3" dp to 4" exhaust, IP turned up 3 flats
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post #27 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-14-2015, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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6 month update

Have logged just over 11,000 miles. Engine has preformed flawless, doesn't skip a beat. Had to replace steering gear box, drag link & tie rod but engine has been great. Every month I can operate without a service truck payment is so nice.
Sold my 97 gasser, all it did was sit anymore. Not saying my fix is the thing to do, but it has worked well for me. Will update in another 6.

1991 F350 custom DRW, 4x4, 11' service box, 7.3

1982 Mercedes 240d
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post #28 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-14-2015, 06:45 AM
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The only diesel I ever saw without a primer pump before the 6.9/7.3 was a Detroit and they were a real pain to get primed too. I agree with you about using a primer pump,and a primary fuel filter. Had one for years on my '89 because I never could find the leak. It ran without problems for about 400,000 miles like that.
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post #29 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-09-2016, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Another update, one reason I'm updating is to keep record of repairs to truck & to share them. Looks like I put over 24,000 miles on the truck last year. Winter time is my busy time & the truck worked great. Electric fuel pump has performed flawless, changed the inline filter going to the pump a couple months ago. Along with all 6 tires (ouch).

On a separate note, the glow plug relay has always done the rapid clicking after about 10seconds of steady draw. Truck has always started decent. Using a amp draw meter & not a test light, I found 1 plug dead & 1 other drawing only 4-5 amps after starting at 10-11. All other plugs start above 20amps & settle at 10-11 amps after 5-6 seconds. Relay has steady draw now with no clicking.

Still working almost daily, will update again.
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post #30 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-09-2016, 10:01 AM
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same fuel problem as always

The clicking is normal. The controller will cycle the GP's after the WTS light goes out.

1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually
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