Now for the UPDATE!
Yes, I'M BACK-and not in a good way! Kind of Like Jason in "Friday the 13th, Part 13" or something.
Went out today to wire up trailer lights, and check out the exhaust break and maybe start in on the Glow Plug Circuit in earnest, but ran into a small issue!
Turned key on, normal buzzes and dash lights. Turned to START, and, again everything goes DEAD!
Different set of conditions tested out this time, though. See below:
So, as I said, first start of the day. Everything has been working fine for the 10-15 times I have started it since changing the fuse the other day. Everything starts off normal. Turn key first click, to "run." All is normal. Turn key the next, spring loaded bit of a turn and all dash lights and buzzers, etc, go off. NO juice anywhere that is apparent without a test light. I, of course, sit in shock, just staring at the dash. Key off, back on, NOTHING. NO dash lights, no buzzers, etc. I leave the key in the on position while trying to jiggle fuses and the wires to the switch, etc. NOTHING. I get out to get my test light, and at some point, without me touching anything, the dash comes back to life. Hmmm... So, I let it be alive for a few seconds, then try to turn it to START again. DEAD! Kills all the dash lights and buzzers again. I keep turning key, jiggling wires again, take out and put back in fuses again. They look good (the 2 I played with last time). I replace the one that fixed it last time-nothing. So, I get the test light out and start testing and tracing. This time, things are different. GREAT! A whole new problem to trace!
So, last time, if you recall, there was NO JUICE to the ignition switch.
This time, there IS juice to the switch in the "Off" and "Acc" positions, but when I turn it to "On," it kills the power to the switch. I go back and test the power at the places I had tested it the other day. Same result. When key is Off or in Acc, there is juice to the starter, GPR, Post on the upper driver's side firewall, solenoid next to it, and the solenoid inside the firewall near the fuse box, but when I turn the key on, ALL of these places "lose" their juice. So, my gut reaction is that the switch is bad and causing a bad ground internally? The only odd thing is, with the last round of problems, the headlights were working, though nothing else seemed to be. This time, it seems the headlights are not working at all-key on, key off, doesn't matter-no headlights.
My initial reaction was that the key/ignition switch must be bad. I ran in town to the parts store and got a replacement, but then the headlight issue kept bothering me. I'm now wondering if maybe something in the headlight circuit is causing the bigger, badder "short."
Or, of course, there is always the possibility and option that 2 things simultaneously blew up on me...?
So, before I install this key switch, I thought I'd ask here. Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions? New Curse words to try out?
I will likely go down and check ALL the fuses again-which I didn't do, as I was feeling more confident it was the ignition switch at first, but the headlight issue started creeping into the back of my head more and more, soooo...
Can a bad key switch short out the WHOLE system, for lack of a better way to word that question?
Thanks again! Have fun with me again, this time!