Water Pump - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Water Pump

My truck will be stored for the winter but it looks like I will be replacing the water pump come this spring. Antifreeze running down the front of the engine.

I've been researching for what I am up against and it looks fairly straight forward with the exception of removing the fan. When facing the engine, do I wrench it to the right to remove the fan nut and is it necessary to have a special tool? I have an Auto Zone close by so I will be buying the pump and extras from them. Duralast for about $58.00. Thanks in advance.

1994 F250 HD, IDI Diesel, 3:55 gears, K&N filter, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Monroe HD SensaTrac shocks, dual pillar pod with temp & tranny guage, poly fuel tanks,aluminum racing radiator
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 07:04 PM
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Yep, the fan hub is left hand thread. And compare the new pump with your old one closely. Most new pumps have a less thick machined boss where two(?) bolts go making it necessary to use shorter bolts with the new pump. And to make things easier, most all mechanics will glue the gasket to the pump with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive and lightly coat the other side with Permatex Aviation Sealer. If I remember right, the shroud is only held on with 4 or 6 bolts. It can be moved toward the engine until the fan & hub is removed. I bought my truck new and am on my 3rd water pump. I never needed a special tool, before loosening any belts, I wad up a shop rag, wedge it between the alt or other belt and pulley and it locks up the pump from turning enough to crack loose the hub.

Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.

Last edited by LMJD; 11-15-2017 at 07:08 PM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you LMDJ. Can I assume that these shorter bolts are available as an option at the point of purchase? I also read that you can get stainless steel bolts for replacement. Wish I had another warm month of weather coming. Too many things to do. Thanks again.

1994 F250 HD, IDI Diesel, 3:55 gears, K&N filter, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Monroe HD SensaTrac shocks, dual pillar pod with temp & tranny guage, poly fuel tanks,aluminum racing radiator
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 10:19 AM
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Autozone will rent you the wrenches to remove the Ford fan hub.

When you get the new water pump, lay it on a piece of card board, trace it's outline, then punch holes in it for the bolt holes, when you remove the pump bolts, stick them in the appropriate holes in the cardboard, that way you know where they go back in the new pump.

The new pump should come with two bolts that go into the top pump two holes. Use a sealer on all the bolt threads or you might have a leak thru them. Bolt torque is 23-33 ft lbs.

As LMJD said about the shroud and fan hub, the hub screws ON to come off. it's left hand threads. When re-installing, bang it ON as tight as you can get it, a couple of drops of Blue LocTite will lock it ON.

92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight

IDI firing order 12734568--------1&4-2&5-7&6-3&8 Cyl's @ TDC. 1&4 TDC when timing mark is @ 0. Each 1/4 turn, next 2.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 10:40 AM
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Thank you LMDJ. Can I assume that these shorter bolts are available as an option at the point of purchase? I also read that you can get stainless steel bolts for replacement. Wish I had another warm month of weather coming. Too many things to do. Thanks again.
You don't need stainless bolts, regular grade 5 is just fine. Far as Loctite, that's a personal choice. Me, I'd never use it, that hub is hard enough to get off as it is. I've always just reinstalled plenty tight and called it good.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 01:25 PM
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Buy yourself a couple of long bolts,cut the heads off and use them as dowel pins to slide and align the waterpump up,waterpump is heavy to hang onto and bolt at same time.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for all the info. I have been watching U-Tube as well. Still a little confused on which way the fan nut turns as I have seen it both ways? Again. when facing the fan from the front of the engine, do i wrench it to the right or left.? I also saw where you can pull the whole assembly out (fan and shroud) by removing the four bolts on the fan attached to the water pump. I'll keep you folks posted on my progress. Thanks again.

1994 F250 HD, IDI Diesel, 3:55 gears, K&N filter, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Monroe HD SensaTrac shocks, dual pillar pod with temp & tranny guage, poly fuel tanks,aluminum racing radiator
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 08:19 PM
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It was already stated that it's LH thread. So looking at it from the front, counter clockwise.
Those 4 bolts do nothing but hold the belt pulley on.

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1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-28-2017, 09:19 AM
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It's Noted on the Shroud that it's LEFT HAND THREADS

Turn the NUT CLOCKWISE TO TAKE IT OFF.

92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight

IDI firing order 12734568--------1&4-2&5-7&6-3&8 Cyl's @ TDC. 1&4 TDC when timing mark is @ 0. Each 1/4 turn, next 2.

Last edited by Trucker87; 11-28-2017 at 09:21 AM.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-28-2017, 09:51 AM
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It was already stated that it's LH thread. So looking at it from the front, counter clockwise.
Those 4 bolts do nothing but hold the belt pulley on.
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You might want to ignore this, not real helpful. As Trucker87 posted above, CLOCKWISE.

Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-28-2017, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Mission accomplished! Thanks again for all your help and now onto the reassembly.

1994 F250 HD, IDI Diesel, 3:55 gears, K&N filter, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Monroe HD SensaTrac shocks, dual pillar pod with temp & tranny guage, poly fuel tanks,aluminum racing radiator
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-28-2017, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trucker87 View Post
It's Noted on the Shroud that it's LEFT HAND THREADS

Turn the NUT CLOCKWISE TO TAKE IT OFF.
Ha yeah, I don't know where counter clockwise came from.
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Mission accomplished! Thanks again for all your help and now onto the reassembly.
Yours come off pretty easy?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-29-2017, 01:31 PM
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You need a big open end wrench to get the nut. I forget the size, around 1.5 inches. I only had box end wrenches, no open end large enough. So I just made a wrench form some steel stock, but a real wrench would be better. Somebody can verify the size.

Replacing the pump is just basic mechanics, nothing real difficult. Just a bit awkward with the weight and access. Using the guide bolt pins is a good idea.

I did not put any loctite on the left hand nut fan threads. Just tightened it good.

I used to have a handle on life......but it broke!

2006 F-650: 5.9/Allison
1988 F-250 4x4: 7.3 IDI with ATS, ZF-5
2005 Kenworth Motorhome: Cummins ISX15, 10-speed Ultrashift
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-29-2017, 04:49 PM
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I suggested a COUPLE of DROPS of BLUE LOCTITE. Some people don't know what Tight is. A Diesel engine Stops Abruptly when the key is turned OFF, The fan continues to turn Clockwise for a couple of seconds, if by chance the fan clutch is defective, or the nut is not HARD tight, it could start to loosen the nut.

Yes, there have been instances of where the FAN Kisses the radiator core.

Your choice.
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92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight

IDI firing order 12734568--------1&4-2&5-7&6-3&8 Cyl's @ TDC. 1&4 TDC when timing mark is @ 0. Each 1/4 turn, next 2.

Last edited by Trucker87; 11-29-2017 at 04:52 PM.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-30-2017, 09:14 AM
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I did not put any loctite on the left hand nut fan threads. Just tightened it good.
Yep, I'm not a big fan of Loctite either in that application, that nut can be a pain to loosen as it is. I just tighten it using what a mechanic who I worked with liked to say, mechanical aptitude and competence.
And the correct wrench size is 1 7/8", Napa carries them, I think I paid about $30 but that was mucho years ago.

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