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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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What is this?

Hey everyone-

Iím new to the forum, new to this truck and Iím trying to get it back to having everything functional. It sat for years, and was given to me for towing my boat. There are a lot of minor issues, but it runs strong.

My question is, what is this thing? Itís on the passenger side of the engine compartment, up against the firewall and on top of everything. It sound like it has something to do with the heater/AC. It has one white wire going to it and itís broken. It looks like a solonoid.

Anyone know what it does?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 10:34 AM
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Thatís the heater recirculating door actuator. Itís vacuum operated. There should be a 1/8Ē hard plastic tube leading to it. It looks like yours has been chewed by rats/mice.

Early '99 F250(02-98) 192,000mi,2wd,auto,Extra cab longbed,Bak Flip tonneau cover,AIS,4" turbo back exhaust,ITP regulated fuel return,SS HPX line,203 Tstat,Evans coolant,Isspro EV2 gauges trans temp,boost,EGT,fuel pressure,John Wood HD 4R100,6.0 cooler,DP Tuner F5 chip,Terminator Scangauge

1989 F250 4x4 7.3 IDI w Banks Sidewinder turbo, 149,000 mi, Regular cab, E4OD, 8600 GVWR, 4.10 LS, Isspro EV2 gauges EGT, Trans temp, Coolant temp, Oil press, Boost press
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0298PSD View Post
Thatís the heater recirculating door actuator. Itís vacuum operated. There should be a 1/8Ē hard plastic tube leading to it. It looks like yours has been chewed by rats/mice.
Well that would make sense. Iíve been wondering where the copper part of the wire went. Itís been rotted out by AZ hear and sun.

What exactly does that do/mean? What would happen with it broken? This truck never gets part the ďNĒ on normal as far as engine temp, so I think it may have a stuck thermostat as well; unless that would affect it somehow?

Do you know where the tube runs to? Iíll replace it, but it would be helpful to know how long of a tube I need and where it needs to run rather than pull the entire harness apart to find it.

Thanks for your help!
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 12:22 PM
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I have noticed this on my 1996. I guess IDI and PS have them. Mine looks exactly like yours with the white piece dry rotted and broke in half. @0298PSD, What does the tube look like? Or is the white piece the tube? Is there a part number for it?



Thanks.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0298PSD View Post
Thatís the heater recirculating door actuator. Itís vacuum operated. There should be a 1/8Ē hard plastic tube leading to it. It looks like yours has been chewed by rats/mice.
Kinda the wrong thing to call it. Yes for recirc, but only kicks on with max a.c. setting.

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1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebradog View Post
Well that would make sense. Iíve been wondering where the copper part of the wire went. Itís been rotted out by AZ hear and sun.

What exactly does that do/mean? What would happen with it broken? This truck never gets part the ďNĒ on normal as far as engine temp, so I think it may have a stuck thermostat as well; unless that would affect it somehow?

Do you know where the tube runs to? Iíll replace it, but it would be helpful to know how long of a tube I need and where it needs to run rather than pull the entire harness apart to find it.

Thanks for your help!
If the tube is broken youíll lose vacuum in the system which will affect your brakes. The tube runs to a fitting on the pass fender liner if I remember correctly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HilhavenFarm View Post
I have noticed this on my 1996. I guess IDI and PS have them. Mine looks exactly like yours with the white piece dry rotted and broke in half. @0298PSD, What does the tube look like? Or is the white piece the tube? Is there a part number for it?


Thanks.
The white piece is the tube, you should be able to get it at auto parts stores

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Originally Posted by 79jasper View Post
Kinda the wrong thing to call it. Yes for recirc, but only kicks on with max a.c. setting.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Not trying to be misleading, thatís what Rock Auto called it when I ordered it.

Early '99 F250(02-98) 192,000mi,2wd,auto,Extra cab longbed,Bak Flip tonneau cover,AIS,4" turbo back exhaust,ITP regulated fuel return,SS HPX line,203 Tstat,Evans coolant,Isspro EV2 gauges trans temp,boost,EGT,fuel pressure,John Wood HD 4R100,6.0 cooler,DP Tuner F5 chip,Terminator Scangauge

1989 F250 4x4 7.3 IDI w Banks Sidewinder turbo, 149,000 mi, Regular cab, E4OD, 8600 GVWR, 4.10 LS, Isspro EV2 gauges EGT, Trans temp, Coolant temp, Oil press, Boost press
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Not trying to be misleading, that’s what Rock Auto called it when I ordered it.
Yep, that's exactly what it's referred to all the years I've worked in the trade in both shop and parts manuals, don't know what else you'd call it.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info. Iíll try and find the fitting tomorrow and get it fixed. Itís got a lot of small things like this to repair, so Iím sure Iíll be asking more questions about other things.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0298PSD View Post
If the tube is broken youíll lose vacuum in the system which will affect your brakes. The tube runs to a fitting on the pass fender liner if I remember correctly.



The white piece is the tube, you should be able to get it at auto parts stores


Not trying to be misleading, thatís what Rock Auto called it when I ordered it.
True. But they also call a icp sensor a fuel injection sensor. Lol

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

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PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 10:40 AM
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^^^^ And how many places call the starter and/or GP relay "solenoids"....

That line does NOT come directly from the vacuum manifold under the hood. It comes from the vacuum controls on the HVAC head in the dash, and then goes to the recir... er... max A/C door. Tearing apart the harness is overkill. Cut each side back to where it's clean, get som appropriate sized regular rubber vacuum hose, and slip over each open end to re-join. Doesn't need to be anything fancy. Shoot, that hose broke on one of our '95s when we were out in the boonies at the cabin. My wife had the idea of cannibalizing a Purell pump bottle for the hose; we patched it in, electrical-taped it to secure it, and I actually have forgotten about it until being reminded by this thread. Had to be at least 6 years ago.

And actually, you won't lose any brake boost, because there's no vacuum supplied to that line until you hit Max A/C.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 11:10 AM
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This shows the vacuum line routing (except the diesel vacuum pump) and function:


(phone app link)


This shows how to fix that line:


(phone app link)


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