What filter for add-on tranny filter? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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What filter for add-on tranny filter?

I bought a used external/remote oil filter setup pretty cheap. I am expecting to use it for a tranny filter. I am wondering what filter element number I should look for that is used in this application?

Also, I need to expand my understanding. I am thinking that the filter will not be above the tranny so I won't need an anti-backflow filter.

I am wondering if I should have a by-pass valve in the filter. I dunno if it would work in an emergency or not.

I was given a ton of Amsoil synthetic AT fluid, maybe $500 worth. The stuff worked a charm in my truck's 5-spd manual tranny when it got hot (I used new stuff in there), now I want to use it in my RV E4OD. The fluid has sat out and was exposed to blowing dust and maybe sand, maybe some water. It looks pretty good but I won't simply dump it into my tranny. I am wonder if I could fix it up by using my new filter kit to rig up a manual method of filtering it. Any ideas about this? Is it a stupid idea? I'm guessing for this I would want a filter w/o an anti-backflow valve since I expect to use gravity to feed the filter. Or not, I dunno yet. Maybe I'll strap it to a merry-go-round and centrifuge it.

1992 E350 RV, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, Dana 70 HD, 4.10, duals, 40k miles
1990 F250 7.3L IDI, ZF 5-spd, 3.55, 4x4, long-bed x-cab 130k
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 12:07 PM
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I sure would be wiry using ATF that's been exposed to sand, dust and water. You would have to use a 2 Micron filter element, then run it thru 5-6 times. Better use is to use it for campground fire starting, it'll burn but not to good.

E4OD rebuilds is expensive, $2100 and up.

92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight

IDI firing order 12734568--------1&4-2&5-7&6-3&8 Cyl's @ TDC. 1&4 TDC when timing mark is @ 0. Each 1/4 turn, next 2.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 08:00 AM
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Yep, might be real expensive trans fluid in the end.

Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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if I find I cannot get it clean I'll do something else with it. I am a cautious person.

1992 E350 RV, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, Dana 70 HD, 4.10, duals, 40k miles
1990 F250 7.3L IDI, ZF 5-spd, 3.55, 4x4, long-bed x-cab 130k
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 04:45 PM
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To remove water, heat it to about 200*F, and hold it there until the steam stops. Then filter it carefully, and mix it 2:1 diesel fuel then dispose of it in the fuel tanks. You then would do less damage to your truck than if you used it in the tanny.

1993 F-350 crew cab non-turbo 5 speed transmission
35 years a mechanic on large stationary engines natural gas and diesel fired, and other industrial equipment.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 08:35 AM
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Save up for a new/rebuilt IP if using it for fuel.

92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight

IDI firing order 12734568--------1&4-2&5-7&6-3&8 Cyl's @ TDC. 1&4 TDC when timing mark is @ 0. Each 1/4 turn, next 2.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trucker87 View Post
Save up for a new/rebuilt IP if using it for fuel.
Be about the same as priming the filter with tranny fluid. as lightly as it would be mixed.

1993 F-350 crew cab non-turbo 5 speed transmission
35 years a mechanic on large stationary engines natural gas and diesel fired, and other industrial equipment.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldrebuiltdodge View Post
Be about the same as priming the filter with tranny fluid. as lightly as it would be mixed.
It's not the fact that it won't burn. But eventually the dirty ATF will wear out the IP. It's a proven fact that even using WVO and WMO will shorten the life and maybe make an IP un-rebuildable. Without a very good centrifuge and filtering system I would never use it myself.

92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight

IDI firing order 12734568--------1&4-2&5-7&6-3&8 Cyl's @ TDC. 1&4 TDC when timing mark is @ 0. Each 1/4 turn, next 2.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 09:23 AM
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Using that ATF fluid is a terrible idea. The E40D is already a fickle beast as it is, why tempt fate over $95 ? Your tow bill would be higher than that, much less the rebuild.

1997 F250 Heavy Duty 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 Crew Cab, SRW, Automatic E40D
BTS Valve Body
Tru-Cool Trans Cooler
4" Turbo Back Diamond Eye Stainless Exhaust
Tymar Air Intake
TS Six Position Chip (stock,High Idle, +50, +75, +100, +120)
Tymar HPX line in hand but no installed yet
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Relentless007 View Post
Using that ATF fluid is a terrible idea. The E40D is already a fickle beast as it is, why tempt fate over $95 ? Your tow bill would be higher than that, much less the rebuild.
Right, looking clean to the naked eye and being 100% clean are two different things. And as posted, I sure wouldn't used it in my fuel tank either.

Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 01:20 PM
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Dispose of the old ATF properly. Buy new MotorCraft MerconV fluid, and put a Magnefine filter in the cooler line behind the radiator where it's easily-accessible from below:

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 06:49 PM
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x2 on the magnafine

1997 F250 Heavy Duty 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 Crew Cab, SRW, Automatic E40D
BTS Valve Body
Tru-Cool Trans Cooler
4" Turbo Back Diamond Eye Stainless Exhaust
Tymar Air Intake
TS Six Position Chip (stock,High Idle, +50, +75, +100, +120)
Tymar HPX line in hand but no installed yet
285/75r16 BFG All-Terrain KO2
ARE LSII Custom Color Tonneau bed cover
Color match Rhino spray in bed liner
------------------------------------------
Better To Be Tried By 12 Than Carried By 6
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

1992 E350 RV, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, Dana 70 HD, 4.10, duals, 40k miles
1990 F250 7.3L IDI, ZF 5-spd, 3.55, 4x4, long-bed x-cab 130k
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