Where to get BB injectors? - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 10:55 AM
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True or False ?

Ford IDI injector specifications.

Spray pattern on IDI (Indirect Injection) injectors means nothing. The fuel is sprayed into a precup which has a rough interior that breaks up the fuel into small droplets just before combustion.

An IDI Leaking injector is NOT considered as Leaking when POP Tested if the droplet holds in place on the "Needle/Nozzle" for a period of Five (5) seconds.

An IDI Ford/Navistar Diesel engine is Factory timed to 8.5* to 9.0* BTDC using the pulse method @ 2000 RPM. The Factory quartz pulse pickup is located on #1 injector on a Truck engine and is located on #4 injector in a Van engine. At those spec's, fuel is injected at 23/1000 of second BTDC.
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92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight

IDI firing order 12734568--------1&4-2&5-7&6-3&8 Cyl's @ TDC. 1&4 TDC when timing mark is @ 0. Each 1/4 turn, next 2.

Last edited by Trucker87; 05-07-2018 at 11:02 AM.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LMJD View Post
If you're doing your research over the internet forums you'd be wise to research the person giving the information before you put much stock in it. None of us know everything but there is a major number of "experts" who never worked a day in a diesel shop but parrot "knowledge" all over forums whether right or wrong such as:

The "book", if he means shop manuals, says nothing even close to that. And, "I have heard it's a good idea to loosen head bolts in reverse torque sequence a bit at a time until they are loose to keep from warping the head." Yeah, right.
As a wise forum member once said, "Sometimes I wonder if people just read different opinions over the web and formulate their own, not knowing if its true or not."
I completely agree, I've been following the forums for the better part of a decade just recently joined cuz It got too painful to watch bad advice be given to innocent people. Most of the time it gets corrected at some point but I usually don't chime in unless it's somethin I'm comfortable putting my name on but it's also nice to get advice when I can't find a reliable answer.
My research was a combination of forums (mostly obn and here) and manufacturer info along with comparing different brands, experiences, pricing, and then of course all the pros vs cons and why Ford did things the way they did vs put the right part in to begin with.
Once I made a decision the hard part was finding anyone who could confirm codes. Just kept asking for the vehicle info and recommending OEM
But I also try not to install anything that I'm not 125% sure on.

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 03:25 PM
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Spray pattern on IDI (Indirect Injection) injectors means nothing. The fuel is sprayed into a precup which has a rough interior that breaks up the fuel into small droplets just before combustion.
Not going to argue with you but I find it odd that my Navistar 7.3 IDI shop manual shows correct and incorrect IDI injector patterns. Whether the pattern starts in a precup or not, the pattern has to be correct for proper combustion.
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An IDI Leaking injector is NOT considered as Leaking when POP Tested if the droplet holds in place on the "Needle/Nozzle" for a period of Five (5) seconds.
You left out a bit of somewhat important information, that test is only accurate and must be done with constantly maintained test pump pressure 200 psi below the injector's pop-off setting.
Also, according to my Navistar manual injection section, BB code merely means that the nozzles are CAV brand, whereas C or D means that they are Stanadyne. It goes back a lot of years, but I think that's what the local pump & injection shop owner told me when these engines were fairly new, the stamps on the injector bodies have nothing to do with the internal injector specs.
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Last edited by LMJD; 05-07-2018 at 04:20 PM.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 04:12 PM
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It got too painful to watch bad advice be given to innocent people.
Yep, Mammoth73, years ago on another forum a poor guy with about zero mechanical know-how described a symptom and several keyboard mechanics convinced him he had a bad IP. He went through absolute hell removing it, only to finally it was in perfect shape. The administrator later came on and gave a few people a butt-chewing for jumping to a diagnosis long distance with only a monitor to go by and mentioned just because XYZ was wrong with your truck, that doesn't apply to the next guy's pickup.

Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-09-2018, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Ya it's easy to get caught up in all the text especially with some of these threads. I often have to remind myself that people have been wrong before and unlike a lot of them this is my daily so anything I remove I have to reinstall and make sure it works right or I'm stranded until I fix it.
On a brighter note, put the new injectors in with only a couple hiccups.
Had an injector unscrew and left the bottom half stuck in there but I was able to look it up and people said to grind off the outer threads on the top part and screw it back together turning clockwise while pulling and it worked like a charm.
Also I had a copper washer stuck in one cylinder that was really testing my patience. But after a minute of research I found a flathead that fit perfectly inside it and it pulled right out. Used high temp bearing grease on the o-rings cuz I had it and heard it was better than Vaseline.
Now that it's all back together let me just say....WHAT A DIFFERENCE. I'm not sure if it was more the fact that the old injectors were ancient or that I went with code D this time but it made such a difference I actually have to adjust the way I shift now. People weren't kidding when they said it felt like adding 2cyl to the engine.

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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-09-2018, 04:51 PM
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That's interesting, I bought my pickup new in '91 and the first time I changed the original injectors I was surprised they were CAV brand which are made in England. (I only have limited experience with anything mechanical made in England, but that limited experience has always told me it's crap if it's British ). However the next set were Stanadynes and I couldn't notice one bit of difference in regards to towing power. So you never know.
I should add, I don't know what the codes were, I ordered them from an injection shop but made sure he knew I had an ATS turbo on my 7.3.

Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.

Last edited by LMJD; 05-09-2018 at 04:54 PM.
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Well from what I've gathered they switched from (Stanadyne brand) D codes in the 89-91 6.9 AND 7.3 to E codes from the factory in the 92 7.3s. Then once more in 93.5 to G codes when the turbo was added. So basically I swapped the G code which everyone said was an emissions focused injector to D codes which I'm guessing might've come stock on yours.

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