Rough starting 1984 F250 6.9L IDI Diesel - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.9L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 6.9 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 06:18 PM
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Thanks will give it a shot.

Also, tried block heater for for 3 hours this morning and no start. Had to use starter fluid again. Any other ideas?
Might not hurt to test the block heater to make sure it is working because your symptoms are classic for a failed GP/GPR.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
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Last edited by ArcticDriver; 03-26-2016 at 06:56 PM.
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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Tested the 4 easy to access plugs and got no reading at all with test light. Going from positive terminal to tip of glow plug.

What is a good way to test relay with test light? Or should I be using a multimeter?


Looks like a i found a good price on the diesel rx here:
1984 FORD F 250 Diesel Rx Glow Plugs DRX00088 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

not finding the replacement relay though, any recommendations?
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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ah found relay here. Diesel Rx Glow Plug Controllers DRX01004 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

this is a pretty cheap fix, if thats all im dealing with...

@arcticdriver whats best way to test heater? This is what I dug up
it seems pretty ridiculous
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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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and does anyone have an idea of what this device is that was mounted to the top of my alternator?
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 07:37 PM
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and does anyone have an idea of what this device is that was mounted to the top of my alternator?
Tough to see from photo but the cord almost looks like a 120v AC cord. Any idea where the other end runs to?


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 07:42 PM
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ah found relay here. Diesel Rx Glow Plug Controllers DRX01004 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

this is a pretty cheap fix, if thats all im dealing with...

@arcticdriver whats best way to test heater? This is what I dug up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw03T7lHQMY it seems pretty ridiculous
Oneof the 6.9 guys can best tell you which GPR to buy since they are not all created equal.

Cheers


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 09:25 PM
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Upgrade to the solid state system like the 7.3 has.

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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 09:32 PM
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Jordan,

Do you access to a multi-meter?

If so then set to measure Ohms and touch one lead to each of the flat prongs on the block heater plug (ignore the ground prong).

You should get around 15-Ohms resistance. If you don't then either the cord is bad (common) or the heater element is bad (much less common).

If you do not have a way to measure ohms then you should be able to feel heat at the location of the block heater and the freeze plug hole its mounted in after its plugged in for an hour or so. I think on the 6.9 its obstructed by the starter though??


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Got some readings off truck.
Block heater and plugs are giving no readings.

12.3 v coming from batteries and gp harness

Glow Plug controller is giving 4.5 v cold and 10.7 volts running.

Is this normal?

Going to replace regardless, found a $20 duralast at local auto store. And I already mistakenly ordered this one with new diesel rx plugs:

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/DRX-DRX01004

Will that one work for an 84 6.9...looks exactly the same as what i have, but im sure insides could be different.

Thanks for all thw advice so far! Hope old plugs come out easy..
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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 01:44 PM
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^^^^^ That's the relay, not the controller, and yes, it will work. Cheaper alternative, proven reliable, is the Western Plow 56131K.

Re. the block heater - is the rebuilt engine a transplant? Or is it the original engine from the truck, rebuilt and re-installed? It would be good to get the engine serial number. The early 6.9 engines, up to the middle of the '85 model year, had a problem with the engine block, where there was a risk of the block cracking by using the block heater. Later blocks got a thicker casting in the area around where the block heater mounts.

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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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@Madpogue thanks for the reply. Took some shots of engine and serial. Previous owner told me it was original engine rebuilt

Also one other thing i noticed is that when i try the glow plug button on dash i get no sound like they are turning on anymore. This is new as of today. Guessing its bc of bad relay??
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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 03:14 PM
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Glow plug button? Something the PO installed? First thing I'd do is find out how it's wired, and whether that means the OEM glow plug control is disabled.
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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Pictures here
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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 03:30 PM
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Look on the top of the block, driver's side, just behind the IP cover. You should see either a number stamped into the casting, or a plate with a number on it. That's the engine number.
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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Yep its a temporary push button on the dash. Was working but now seems busted

Just had new alternator i put in tested and the voltage regulator failed, which i,just replaced as well.

Think i got the serial, image attached

Thanks
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