Join Date: Mar 2008
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I haven't Line-X'd my steel bed yet, mainly because I don't want to have to chip the LineX off if I have to weld something to the bed. And, I didn't want moisture and microscopic corrosion to get trapped between the LineX and the steel. With paint, at least I can see what's going on with the metal under the paint. With thick LineX, that isn't possible.
I have an aftermarket bed, with 10 gauge steel wall thickness, and I keep a sheet of 3/4" plywood, primed and painted on all 6 sides, on the bottom of the bed, so denting has never really been an issue.
However, the issue that guys I run across with the Ford aluminum beds have isn't the dents... it is the tears and ruptures that leave open holes. It's when they start seeing daylight through the bed wall that they start complaining, not just scratches and dents. The post 1980 Ford stamped steel beds scratched and dented almost as easily, but the steel didn't rupture and rip like the Ford aluminum beds. Not even the newest, thinnest, post 2011 steel.
Now, going back to the 1950's and 60's steel... faggedabout it. Those beds could serve as dart boards for hammer throwing contests and still survive as serviceable. I remember noticing how much thinner the 1973-79 dentside bed sheetmetal was when compared to even the bumpside body that immediately preceeded it. And my first pick up was two design cycles prior to the bump... a 1963 unibody. The steel on older trucks used to be so thick, that double wall wasn't necessary.
Anyway, days gone by, and now we have Aluminum. But Aluminum isn't the problem. It is the material thickness of the Aluminum that is the issue. If the aluminum were thicker, then it wouldn't tear as easily. I can still tear an aluminum can of Coke with my bare hands, even at my age. But I never could tear a steel can of soup, even at half my age.