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Changing ATF: 7.3L PowerStroke Engine and 4R100 Automatic Transmission.

576K views 151 replies 50 participants last post by  Mark Kovalsky 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This procedure replaces the outdated FAQs now accessed off the home page.

Note: This article was revised on May 2, 2008. It was first written by Mark Kovalsky several years ago, so "I" in the procedures is Mark, not Smokey. :thumbsup:

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Transmission Maintenance - Do It Yourself (DIY)

Changing automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in a SuperDuty truck with 7.3L engine and 4R100 automatic transmission. (Will also work on earlier trucks with E40D transmission.)

NOTE: THIS WILL NOT WORK FOR A TORQSHIFT TRANSMISSION. It is not valid for any transmission newer than the 4R100.

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I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.

1. Things you need to get started:

a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON V ATF. You may use either conventional or synthetic ATF, as long as it is rated MERCON or MERCON V. Your Owner’s Guide says to not use MERCON V, but Ford changed that in 2006.

b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler line. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying! The metal part of your cooler return line is probably 3/8th inch outside diameter (OD) with a ferule on the end of it, so if you can find 7/16th inch inside diameter (ID) tubing, that will probably work great. If you use ½” ID, it will be a loose fit over the ferule and will need a good hose clamp tightened good to prevent it from leaking. So just in case, place a big drain pan under the connection. And some folks have reported they were strong enough to force a 3/8th inch ID tube over the ferule. If you try that, dipping the end of the plastic tubing in very hot water for a few seconds will make the job easier.

c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.

d. If your transmission has ever been worked on by a Ford dealer, you probably have a Magnefine in-line filter in the "rubber" part of the cooler return line, near the front axle. If so, you should replace that filter every time you change the ATF. You can get one from your Ford dealer, or for about $15 from Magnefine Filters--Online Order Form. Your cooler lines are probably 3/8th inch, so you want the 3/8th size Magnefine inline filter.

2. Note: In cool or cold weather, be sure the transmission is up to operating temp before you begin. It’s not supposed to happen, but several members have reported ATF coming out the cooler bypass line instead of the cooler return line if they tried these procedures with a cold transmission. Also, in cool or cold weather, keep the new ATF in the house so it’s around room temperature of about 70º F. when you pour it in the transmission.

3. If your pan has a drain plug, drain the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug. If it doesn't have a drain plug, skip to step #5.

4. Pour 7 quarts of new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube.

5. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler(s). This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the transmission, torque converter and coolers will be pumped out. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission.


The following is a drawing of the 4R100 transmission, seen from the passenger’s side of the vehicle. The arrow at #2 shows the banjo connection where the cooler return line and the cooler bypass line connect to the rear of the transmission. The arrow at #4 shows where the “hot” line and the cooler bypass line comes out of the banjo connection on the front of the transmission. (The cooler bypass valve is near the banjo connection at the front of the transmission, in that bypass line that runs between arrows #4 and #2.)



6. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.

a. Run the engine at idle RPM until you have around 1.5 gallons in the drain bucket, then you should see a big air bubble in the clear tubing. Ignore tiny bubbles. As soon as you see a big air bubble, shut off the engine. Then double-check the amount of used ATF in the drain bucket. You should have around 1.5 gallons. If you have much less than 1.5 gallons, then you probably killed the engine too soon, so crank the engine and pump out some more old ATF.

b. If you drained the pan in step 3 and poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in step 4, then while the engine is idling in step 6a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.

c. If you poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in an earlier step, then refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF. (That's 13 quarts total so far). If you have not poured in any new ATF yet, then pour in 7 quarts of new ATF, for a total of 7 quarts so far.


7. Repeat steps 6a and 6c until you have poured in a total of 19 quarts of new ATF (7 + 6 + 6).


8. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission with 20 lb/ft torque.

9. Drive the truck several miles to get the transmission up to operating temperature. Then check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.

Note: You should always check the ATF level when the transmission is up to operating temp – not when it’s cold. The cold marks on the dipstick are not very reliable. When first filling the transmission, use the cold zone on the dipstick to get close to the right amount of ATF in the transmission. But for topping off, do it with a hot transmission using the hot area of the dipstick. When you get done, you want the transmission full, but not overfull.

10. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.

11. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.

12. Then get back on TheDieselStop and tell us your "lessons learned" for those that follow you down the DIY road.

Now that we understand the basic procedure, let's muddy the water with the options:

Optional: Change the internal transmission filter. Revise paragraph 3 above to read:

3. Drain the pan, remove the pan, replace the transmission filter, clean the inside of the pan and clean the reuseable gasket, install the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug. Torque pan bolts to 11 lb/ft.

If your pan doesn't have a drain plug, you remove and drain the pan at the same time. This might be a messy job, but most tranny pans on other vehicles don't have a drain plug, so you won't be doing something the pros don't do routinely.

Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.

The pans for the 4x2 and 4x4 drivetrains are slightly different, so the internal transmission filter is also slightly different. So be sure you buy the correct transmission filter for your drivetrain.

I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.

It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.

Optional: Drain the torque converter. Add the following to paragraph 3 above:

If your truck was built before August, 2001, then you may have a drain plug in the torque converter. If you do, then you can also drain the torque converter as part of step 3 above. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.

If your torque converter does include a drain plug, then to drain the torque converter remove the shield (but NOT the upper right bolt - this one only needs to be loosened) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you drain the torque converter, be sure to replace the drain plug, and torque it to 18 to 20 lb/ft before you continue.

If you drain the torque converter, then the old ATF won't come out of the end of the cooler return line until the torque converter is filled with ATF. So instead of waiting until you see big air bubbles in the drain line during your first iteration of going through in step 6a, run the engine for about 30 seconds while changing gears for step 6b, then cut off the engine.

Optional: Blow out the coolers. Add the following to paragraph 5 above.

It's not necessary, but some folks want to get every possible drop of the old ATF out of the system before they pump new ATF through the system. If you drained the torque converter, then you might also want to blow the ATF out of the coolers and cooler lines. If you have an air compressor, you can reduce the line pressure to about 15 PSI, remove the cooler "hot" line from the front of the transmission, and blow air into that line. That will force the ATF in the coolers and lines out the cooler return line at the back of the transmission. DO NOT use air pressure of more than about 15 PSI! Then be sure to reconnect that line before you continue with paragraph 6.
 
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#64 ·
6.0L cooler replaced and fluid changed

I opted to drain the pan, pull the pan and clean the magnet, replace the filter and reinstall pan.
Then I removed the return line, attached a 10' section of clear tube and ran to 5 gallon buck just outside of the drivers door for visual inspection during purge.

Then I removed the old 7.3L cooler, made up fittings for new 1/2" line to my spin on filter (woodnthings8 style).
I'll tell you, this was the worst part, trying to get the new cooler installed, connected and back together took the longest. Anywho...

After I had the new cooler installed, I added 7 quartz then ran truck.
Then 6 quartz then ran the truck, put on the return line, then the last 6 quartz.

I was having a problem due to cold getting the fluid warmed up to check the level.... I will do that today.

A couple of questions. Did everyone end up with just about 5 gallons of old fluid when done?
How do you tell what 20 lb./ft is when it's an open end wrench for the 5/8" return line hose? I just went a good snug, and it didn't leak, so I guess were good.
Also, the pressure guage on my spin-on filter indicated 23 lbs., does that seem proper?
And for flow test, it seemed to have a steady stream when shifting, but backed off a little when put in park. Again fluid was cold because it took so long to get cooler replaced.

It went fine according to directions, but plan on getting a little messy.

Thanks everyone for the help,

Timk
 
#65 ·
I was having a problem due to cold getting the fluid warmed up to check the level.... I will do that today.
The best way to warm up the ATF in the wintertime is to tie onto the heaviest trailer you can tow without overloading your tow vehicle, then drag it up a steep grade at less than 35 MPH. Maybe from Jackson, head up to the area around Kit Carson, then find a steep mountain trail where you can poke along at about 30 MPH while dragging the trailer without causing road rage from the drivers behind you. The unlocked torque converter will throw a volcano worth of heat at the new cooler. Even with that wonderful 6.0L cooler, you can probably get the tranny temp up to 140° or more in a few minutes. Then quickly check the ATF level and top it off to full but not overfilled.
 
#66 ·
Carson Pass

Yeah, Carson pass would definetley get the fluid warm (LOL)

You know, it's about a half a quart between low and overfilled when warm.
I probably need to drain about 1/4 quart, it's above the full mark on hot.

That's a pretty tight tolerance, and almost too easy to overfill.

It was 74 degrees today, and I pulled a trailer for about an hour, never got over 130.

Thanks Smokey!

TIMK
 
#67 ·
Great thread, I plan to do this in the next month or so, but I have a question:

Last year, I ran across a guy on craigslist selling 7 Gal of AmsOil ATF (in sealed containers).
I picked it up for $160 in hopes of using it in my truck and having it last a long time.

Is there any reason not to use this ATF?
 
#68 ·
Great thread, I plan to do this in the next month or so, but I have a question:

Last year, I ran across a guy on craigslist selling 7 Gal of AmsOil ATF (in sealed containers).
I picked it up for $160 in hopes of using it in my truck and having it last a long time.

Is there any reason not to use this ATF?
AMSoil sells several different ATF formulas. Your 4R100 tranny requires MERCON or MERCON V. AMSoil says the following two AMSoil ATFs meet the specs for MERCON and MERCON V. So I would use one of these:

Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) (ATFQT)

OE Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (OTFQT)

But if it's some other AMSoil ATF, I wouldn't use it in my 4R100.
 
#69 ·
When draining/flushing the transmission with the engine idling and shifting through the gears, what is the probability of transmission damage/wear?

I wasn't entirely sure how big the "bubble" was supposed to be, so I thoroughly drained the transmission until the "bubble" was about a foot and not much more fluid was coming from the hose. Then I got to thinking that I might have been running my transmission without oil, and that might cause premature wear.

Thanks. Jake.
 
#70 ·
When draining/flushing the transmission with the engine idling and shifting through the gears, what is the probability of transmission damage/wear?
Somewhere between zero to none. Because the output shaft isn't turning, there are no parts moving (except the pump) so no possibility of wear.
 
#72 · (Edited)
innercooler

Now we have the flush down Mark's way, does anyone have a part number or year model to use for the 6.0L innercooler mod? What am I looking for in order to do this mod? I'm adding this to a '02 f-350 7.3L 4x4 178K miles. Thanks everyone for all the great info.
Also like to add, are we talking about getting one from the junk yard or are we installing a brand new one? Plus how much extras ATF will I need when adding this to the mix? thank in advance.
 
#73 ·
the 6.0 intercooler is a pointless mod to do on a 7.3

however the 6.0 transmission cooler is a very go mod. which one are you referring too?
 
#74 ·
tranny cooler

I figured since we were talking about the tranny people would think I was automatically talking about the tranny cooler 6.0 mod on the 7.3L. Sorry to
confuse. From what I can tell it's 3x bigger than the stock 7.3 cooler. But I'm not sure what part number it is or what year it fits that I need to be adding. I do need to add it to to the current stock one right? Meaning still leave the old one in the loop with it? Or no?
 
#75 · (Edited)
We're talking about the tranny cooler, NOT The intercooler (charge air cooler).

But I'm not sure what part number it is or what year it fits that I need to be adding.
The oil-to-air (OTA) tranny cooler (HEAT EXCHANGER) from any 2003-2007 6.0L SuperDuty will work just fine. Ford part number is 5C3Z-7A095-CA.


They made two different OTA tranny coolers for the 6.0L engine, and either one will work about the same. Don't pay extra for a 32-row cooler because it's no better than the cheaper 26-row cooler. Here's a link to a 6.0l tranny cooler for less than $300:
TRANS OIL COOLER for 2004 Ford F-250 Super Duty

I do need to add it to to the current stock one right? Meaning still leave the old one in the loop with it? Or no?
No. The 6.0L cooler replaces the 7.3L cooler. The 6.0L cooler has 1/2" fittings and the 7.3L cooler has 3/8th inch fittings. So visit any good hardware store to buy the adapters you need.
 
#76 ·
great

Awesome, sorry to hijack that thread a bit but that is great information. Thank you so much for your time and quick response. So after install the 6-7-6 or 20qt. flush still prevails on ATF. Alright thank you very much.

DELRUS
 
#77 ·
I feel like I'm not fully understanding this...

Hey guys,

I've got a 2000, 7.3 and I also just bought a new 6.0 trans cooler. I also want to change out all of the fluid and trans filter at the same time I'm changing out the cooler. I read this whole post, but I must be missing something...

My plan was going to be to drain everything I could from the system while everything is apart... So, old cooler disconnected and out of the truck, pan drained and removed, and then finally transfer case drain plug pulled. If I do that, doesn't that get all of the old fluid out? Or do you have to start the truck to pump fluid out?

And in an earlier post I saw that someone had said that it doesn't matter if you basically let it pump all of the fluid out, until no more fluid comes out, because since it's not in gear, it won't hurt the transmission... So why put in new fluid first? Can't you just let it pump out the old fluid until no more fluid comes out, and then it's empty? Can you start the truck while the pan and/or drain plugs are out, in order to help drain the system? What am I missing here?
 
#78 ·
Your missing all the fluid not the torque converter for one. You are also missing that the pump can only pump until no more is in the pan. That will happen at about six quarts. If you don't add fluid again that's all you'll get out. The total fluid in the trans is about 18 quarts.
 
#79 ·
Above, where you say, "fluid not the torque converter," did you mean the fluid 'in' the torque converter? Was that just a typo?

I see what you're saying now about the pump only being able to pump out the amount of fluid in the pan. I guess I was thinking that the pan would be the lowest point in the system, so I thought that when the truck is off, all of the fluid would drain back down into the pan, similar to an engine oil pan. But yeah, now I see how that's totally wrong, since there are so many different components in the transmission system. Can you clarify, for me, the path the fluid travels as it goes through the system? Does it go out of the trans, to the cooler, to the torque converter, to the transfer case, then back into the trans? How does the fluid actually flow through everything?

Like I said before, I wanted to change out all of the fluid while I'm changing the cooler. And I don't really want to pump old, used ATF through my brand new cooler. So does that mean that I should just do the whole fluid flush first, and then swap out the cooler when that's done, as a second job? Or can I do it all at the same time, without pumping old ATF through my new cooler?

And my last question... Where's the best place to buy a full synthetic ATF? I was thinking I would just go buy the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF, but now I can't find it anywhere right near me. I can order it online, but I can only find it by the quart. And for close to 10 bucks a quart. Is there anywhere I can get it by the gallon, for less money? Or is there another good, full synthetic that you guys recommend? I want to go synthetic because I sometimes take the truck at slower speeds, up mountain fire roads, and it really tries to cook my trans. Which is why I'm trying to upgrade the cooling system. So I figure, I should put in synthetic for the extra protection when it tries to overheat in that situation.

Well... That ended up being a lot of words... Sorry about that.

So to summarize, my main questions are:

1. Was that a typo, in your post?

2. How, or in which order, does the fluid travel through the system?

3. Should I treat this like it's 2 separate jobs? Or can I do everything at once?

4. Where to buy a good ATF, for a reasonable price?
 
#83 · (Edited by Moderator)
Fluid Change

Like I said before, I wanted to change out all of the fluid while I'm changing the cooler. And I don't really want to pump old, used ATF through my brand new cooler. So does that mean that I should just do the whole fluid flush first, and then swap out the cooler when that's done, as a second job? Or can I do it all at the same time, without pumping old ATF through my new cooler??
I just removed old tranny cooler, installed new, and then followed directions per previous posts (6-7-6) or whatever with a clear 3/8" tube to a bucket just outside my door, when I saw a bubble I stopped, added more, and did it again. Not that hard.

Where to buy a good ATF, for a reasonable price?
I went with Motorcraft Mercon V, got it at O'reilleys, they ordered me a case, and the rest I used for my power steering fluid change. Not to bad at $8.99/qt.
I wanted to go synthetic, but I'll change again in 25K, so I'm not worried about it

TIMK
 
#84 ·
ATF Brands

OK... Who knows their stuff about oils?

Here's what I found at my local CarQuest.

Product Design Material property Milk Label


This is what I was looking for, but it's about 9 bucks a quart.

Drink Label


And the other choice... The CarQuest brand says it's full synthetic, and it's about 6 bucks a quart. Has anyone used this? Does anybody have an opinion on it? Hopefully the image is good enough for you guys to read the label...

It says that it will work. But it also says that it will work for Mercon LV, so I'm skeptical. Every other label I read said that it was good for one, but not the other. None of them said that they would work for both, except for this one. Is that good? Or is that a big red flag?

The CarQuest brand will save me 60 - 70 bucks, but I don't want to save 70 bucks if it's going to wreck my trans...

Does anyone know what the difference is between Mercon, Mercon V, Mercon LV, Mercon SP, and any other variations that may be out there? Can this really be ok for both Mercon V and Mercon LV?
 
#87 ·
Yep, RT is correct. Ford stopped making pure MERCON ATF, but reformulated MERCON V to be compatible with 4R100 transmissions. Andthey came out with a new transfer case fluid since MERCON was no longer available.


Motorcraft® Transfer Case Fluid

Usage

● For use in transfer cases driving front axles on all-wheel-drive (AWD) and 4x4 vehicles
● Not for use in automatic transmissions, manual transmissions, power take off units
(PTU), fluid couplers or AWD vehicles equipped with a transaxle

Features

● Premium-quality fluid for Ford, Lincoln and Mercury transfer cases
● Manufactured with high-viscosity index, premium-quality, hydroprocessed base oils and specially designed performance additives
● Provides increased protection against deposit, rust, corrosion and wear
● Maintains proper viscosity at extreme temperatures
● Recommended by Ford Motor Company
● Available in cases of 12 one-quart bottles

Motorcraft | Product
 
#88 · (Edited)
A big thanks to WoodnThings and SmokeyWren (if you are still in these parts) and Mark for the excellent DIYs and follow-ups.

I dropped the pan, changed the filter, performed the complete 7-6-6 flush & fill AND 6.0 Cooler upgrade yesterday (needed almost 2 extra quarts for the 26-row cooler and 1/2" lines).

Only thing I would add is that my 2000 (build date 10/99) does not have the OTW radiator and I could have used an extra 3" of new hose on both lines (6.5' rather than the 6' recommended). I may go back and add 90-degree elbows to allow for more direct routing of the new 1/2" hose.

Do the photos below show anything to be concerned about?
 

Attachments

#89 · (Edited)
Only thing I would add is that my 2000 (build date 10/99) does not have the OTW radiator...
Ford began including the oil-to-water (OTW) tranny cooler in the radiator beginning a few months after your build date (Feburary 2000?). But thanks to TheDieselStop, I knew about a TSB that the dealers used to retrofit earlier 7.3Ls with the OTW cooler under warranty. Your truck is way past the warranty date, but you can still use that TSB to get the correct parts to do the job yourself. You need not only the radiator but also some ATF lines. Your lines go around the radiator, but the OTW line go into the radiator then out the front to the OTA cooler.
Here is that TSB 00-04-24: http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/002404.pdf
 
#91 ·
I'm getting all my supplies together to do the flush in the 4R100 transmission of my 2000 F350, and my local parts store cannot get a replacement drain plug for the torque converter. He said if I knew the size, he may have a universal plug that might fit, but I don't want to remove it then not have a replacement right there.
Does anyone know a part number for the plug, or know whether a universal plug would work and if so what size?
If not, should I just forget draining the torque converter and just let the flush cycle the old fluid out of it?
 
#92 ·
I never drain the torque converter. The flush get 100% of the fluid out of the converter.

You can go to any hardware store and get a 1/8" NPT pipe plug. That's what the drain plug is.
 
#93 ·
Thanks Mark! I did the flush following your procedures and everything went fine.
I didn't worry about draining the torque converter. I also plumbed in the OTW cooler in the bottom of my new radiator, and added the Magnefine filter.
Hopefully those help prolong my transmission's life. I don't know if the previous owner ever serviced it, because the fluid was more black than red, and the pan magnet was furry. :-/
 
#94 ·
Type of fluid question

Pretty sure I read the whole thread & did not see this addressed so I must ask:.....
I see a lot of recommendations for the use of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. While I also read & understand that it's not necessary to use this product unless you are (expecting) to be in the upper heat range limits...
My question has to do with whether it's (O.K.) to follow this fluid change out procedure if you currently have the old Mercon or even Mercon V in your system to start with?
The question is:.... Is there any problem/risk with the fact that you will be MIXING some amount of these two different fluids together?
While it sounds like (you) are getting just about all the fluid out & changed following this procedure. It does seem likely that there will be (some) quantity of your old fluid left in the system. And in that it is a procedure where by you are adding fluid to replace pumped out fluid, there is no divisive line between the two fluids when you do it this way.
So not knowing (myself) just how different these two fluids are Dino vs. synthetic, And only hearing over the years that the two should never be mixed (I believe (they) meant you should not make it a habit to top off say your oil with one vs. the other , on a regular basis....
So what is the risk that you might have say 3/4 of a quart (or maybe more) of the old Mercon mixed in with the nice fresh Mobil Synthetic?
ANY?
Slight?
None?
Is the transmission & all it's intricate parts & pieces and valves & friction plates... going to care that there is this small amount mixed in?
Will this (small amount) contaminate the larger amount like a drop of oil contaminates hundreds of gallons of water?..... Like taht & such?... DDT

P.S. As many others have said...Thanks very much for the great post & details on how to DIY on the ATF maintenance job. I would MUCH RATHER DIY like this than have a SHOP or dealer hook up one of their (fancy) machines to do the job and have some rookie tech. push the wrong button and ruin my trans. And we ALL know they will not tell anyone what they did. (YOU) will only find out some weeks/miles down the road when something fails on your trans. and you will have no way of knowing what (they) did to it that lead up to this failure. At least if I do it & follow these directions to the letter, I can sleep at night & if something does screw up down the road, I will still sleep at night knowing I am the only one to blame. Not to mention it's just one more (I can do that job) you will have under your belt and that is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to keeping your vehicle maintained properly! THANKS again
 
#95 ·
Absolutely no problem mixing them at all. You could even drop the pan and refill with Mobil 1 which would be about 50/50 mix and it would be perfectly fine.
 
#96 · (Edited)
Thanks RT. Hope that wasn't a dumb question.
I love this site!!!!!!
Maybe one more question.....With only 75,000 easy miles on this rig, Do you, or anyone else that cares to chime in, Think it really needed to drop the pan and change the filter? With no drain plug it sure seems to make for a messy job.
ORRRR......Is this the BEST TIME to do a one time pan drop & inspection/filter change because it's a (new) engine/transmission & there is likely to be the most metal there now more than any time in the future. Especially if I were to install a spin on filter of 22 microns as is available (I forget where I saw that). Or even an in line filter of which I keep reading about. (??Starts with M.....Something like Miinser filter)?? I know that's not right but I bet you guys know what I am talking about. Any suggestion as to what's the best way to go there or is it just a "how much do you want to spend" type deal? I am sure the in line filter is much less expensive?? right??? Thanks again.........DDT
 
#97 ·
As RT said there is no problem mixing those fluids.

There is no reason (in my opinion) to change the internal filter before the transmission needs to be rebuilt. That filter is coarse enough that it is good for the life of the transmission.

You're thinking of the Magnefine filter. I have concerns about installing filters in the cooling lines. How much restriction is there? Will that be enough restriction that the cooler bypass will open and NO fluid will flow through the coolers and filter?
 
#98 ·
Thanks Mark...That's the one.( Magnefine). I was reading about it later and there seems to be a lot of good things written about it. If I understood what I read on their website & it works as described, it said it did have a bypass system designed into it encase it were to get clogged & with no pressure gauge as the more expensive spin on filters have designed with a threaded port for such, It seems that some sort of bypass would be a natural required design feature for these units. I'm sure you know more about them than I do. At about $15 to $20 each I don't think it unreasonable to figure on changing them at a fairly regular interval. Maybe every third oil change (15,000 miles) or something like that? Not sure about what amount of effort one should take to insure they are allowing enough flow (as per instructions somewhere in this thread I believe. Was it something like 1 quart within 10 to 15 seconds running at idle?). They sure would seem to be a benefit in helping to keep the fluid cleaner throughout the life cycle between regular maintenance schedules of ATF fluid changes.
I don't think it would be unfair to say that there are probably a lot of people that neglect the maintenance scheduled in this area of their vehicles. I am guilty of that. Probably because it's a bit of a PITA job if you don't know how to do it or have not done it successfully yet, or maybe just because it's kind of expensive (relatively speaking) as fluid change jobs go. Guess I am saying that I don't see an issue with them if they do indeed work as described & have a reliable bypass design. Any idea what kind of pressures we are running through these lines? Can't be to high can it?
10-15 psi? Shouldn't take to much in the way of designing to make a reliable bypass system at those low pressures (I wouldn't think). And I would think if you have a TFT gauge & actually watched it on occasion you could be reassured as to if everything was flowing correctly or not. Or should I say that you would know if all the bypass valves are working properly?
I have not read of anyone saying that they installed one of these & it ruined their transmission. Have any of you?
As stated , the OEM filter is basically a screen (not so much a filter), So my guess is it's designed to pick out only objects that might be large enough to get stuck in some passageway and cause major malfunctions. This unit seems to be more of a true filtering device.
Anyway, I have not read anything to make me believe installing one would put me at a greater risk & it seems the benefit of the prolonged life of clean fluid would be worth whatever small risk there might be. JMHO. More comments or opinions about these Magnafine filters is very much welcome. Thanks........DDT
 
#99 ·
Ford originally required the Magnefine to be installed with a replacement transmission and then backed out of that opinion. My theory is that too many people were never changing them and they backed up to the point where even the bypass was blocked. I personally use the Magnefine filter and change it every third oil change just like you suggested. I also drop my pan to inspect the magnet and refill with 8 quarts of clean Dex/Merc. My pan so far is spotless and the magnet rarely has anything on it. I'm going to keep up the routine and see if I can't be the first person to get a million miles out of my original 4R100.
 
#105 ·
Direction of Flow 'Arrow Indication' on Magnafine



My external filter was covered in grime, Next day I bought a Raybestos Magnefine replacement external filter. Yike's the new filter had a direction arrow on the reinstall, I didn't see, as the old one was covered in road grime.
So, following the direction arrow,----the white printed label on the magnefine goes on the Radiator Side,---pointing back to the lowside return line.
It is by my reasoning, pushing the fluid thru the Radiator, and filtering the trans. fluid on it's way BACK TO the Pan.
IS THIS RIGHT?

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR AN ANSWER.,
 
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