This is how to repair the "non-serviceable" plug on the HPOP - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain FAQ Frequently asked questions in the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum.

 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-21-2007, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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This is how to repair the "non-serviceable" plug on the HPOP

This is how to repair the plug that is on the bottom of the HPOP (the plug that you have to remove the HPOP to get to). This plug is listed in the service manual as "non-serviceable"/"do not remove".

After tracking down the leak on my HPOP, I found it to be the plug on the bottom that is not serviced in any of the kits that I read about. After hearing the horror stories about people trying to repair this leak only to have the threads strip out or the HPOP not build pressure afterwards, I made a trip to the local International dealer. I was able to speak with a very knowledgable service guy that informed me that there is indeed a service kit for this problem. He stated that the DT466 I-6 engine uses a very similar HPOP and there was actually a recall that addressed this issue. The recall was only for the I-6 though so that is why many people wouldn't know about it. He took me back and showed me how to fix the problem and while I was there I picked up the repair kit that has the instructions,new plug, o-ring, and loctite (the kit contains extra parts that aren't used on the 7.3 HPOP). The part # for this kit is 1842906C92. I would scan the instructions but I do not have a scanner, sorry. The instructions basically state that the plug should be heated before removal whch should reduce the chances of stripping out the threads. Also, before any plug is removed, the HPOP should be positioned straight up and down with the machined face down and the snap ring end up so that the "ferry plug check ball" is not disturbed. I hope this helps alot of people that don't want to/can't pony up the money for a new pump.

2003 F250 7.3 CC SWB 4X4
300,000 miles
All Stock except for:
-DP Tuner
-305/70/16 Bridgestone Dueler A/T
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-28-2007, 12:17 PM
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Re: This is how to repair the "non-serviceable" plug on the HPOP

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat_Batster
This is how to repair the plug that is on the bottom of the HPOP (the plug that you have to remove the HPOP to get to). This plug is listed in the service manual as "non-serviceable"/"do not remove".

After tracking down the leak on my HPOP, I found it to be the plug on the bottom that is not serviced in any of the kits that I read about. After hearing the horror stories about people trying to repair this leak only to have the threads strip out or the HPOP not build pressure afterwards, I made a trip to the local International dealer. I was able to speak with a very knowledgable service guy that informed me that there is indeed a service kit for this problem. He stated that the DT466 I-6 engine uses a very similar HPOP and there was actually a recall that addressed this issue. The recall was only for the I-6 though so that is why many people wouldn't know about it. He took me back and showed me how to fix the problem and while I was there I picked up the repair kit that has the instructions,new plug, o-ring, and loctite (the kit contains extra parts that aren't used on the 7.3 HPOP). The part # for this kit is 1842906C92. I would scan the instructions but I do not have a scanner, sorry. The instructions basically state that the plug should be heated before removal whch should reduce the chances of stripping out the threads. Also, before any plug is removed, the HPOP should be positioned straight up and down with the machined face down and the snap ring end up so that the "ferry plug check ball" is not disturbed. I hope this helps alot of people that don't want to/can't pony up the money for a new pump.
In my case, the threads came out with the plug. It would have needed a heli-coil to repair it. Does the International repair kit for this plug solve that problem?

2002 F350 Lariat CC 4x4 Auto 4.10 DRW, DP-Tuner F5 live tuned stock, quiet, 40dd, 40, 60, 80 tow, 80e and 120r, B&W GN, BrakeSmart, 'pooned tank, tank and pre-pump mods, 2 Dahl 100 filter, regulated return, BTS dual HPOP, AC singles with EDM 34 lpm nozzles, AIS, H2e, Spearco 6.0 IC, Hypermax 3.5" dp--> MBRP 4" 304SS exhaust, BTS tranny, 203 T-stat, Chevron ELC, Oilguard bypass with Schaeffer 9000, WranglerNW 200 amp alternator, Nippon-Denso starter, SPA gauges, SteveRacer mods, Hella 80/100W 9007s, Hella Micro DE foglights, 1000FF driving lights, 220W backup lights, Stancor contactor, X-Springs, Bilstein shox, custom bumpers but otherwise stock. Nov 30 '99 build engine with 16 K miles, Fluidampr, Comp Cam 910 springs, Melling LPOP and ARP headstuds but otherwise stock.

Last edited by SmokeyWren; 05-01-2008 at 08:51 PM. Reason: fix quote
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-28-2007, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: This is how to repair the "non-serviceable" plug on the HPOP

Possibly, the new plug has about 1/8" more threads on it than the old plug and this may be all that is needed to reach the proper install torque.

2003 F250 7.3 CC SWB 4X4
300,000 miles
All Stock except for:
-DP Tuner
-305/70/16 Bridgestone Dueler A/T
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-09-2007, 09:59 AM
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Re: This is how to repair the "non-serviceable" plug on the HPOP

I have a small leak leaving oil in the valley and I checked all connections on the sides of the HPOP and found nothing but when I rubbed under the pump, I found fresh oil. Does this sound more like the plug you are talking about or the ICP? I have read about "O" rings, ICP & bad pumps so I am alittle confused on what to look at next. I don't want to pony up for a new pump either if I can fix it myself.

2000 Ford 7.3L CC 4X4 4" lift, XM radio, FS2500 Oil Bypass, AFE Stage I PG7 intake, 4" MBRP single exhaust, WW, Zoodad, 203*, 40 gallon combo tank, triple gauges and 3 pos DT Tuner chip -- ALL STOLEN from PARKING LOT
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-09-2007, 11:22 AM
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Re: This is how to repair the "non-serviceable" plug on the HPOP

I think I meant IPR not ICP.

2000 Ford 7.3L CC 4X4 4" lift, XM radio, FS2500 Oil Bypass, AFE Stage I PG7 intake, 4" MBRP single exhaust, WW, Zoodad, 203*, 40 gallon combo tank, triple gauges and 3 pos DT Tuner chip -- ALL STOLEN from PARKING LOT
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 07:07 PM
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I just did the same fix and purchased the kit from International as well, about $75.00. I cleaned up the threads and used the original plug, not the one included in the kit.

Mine blew the original O ring and the plug was easy to turn without much force, no heating needed.

Only have a few hundred miles on it since it has been re-installed but t is not leaking.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2008, 01:04 PM
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When urs leaked did it pour out or just drip?? cuz i thought mine was the rear main seal so i changed it put it all back together and it was still leakin as bad as it was. its a 99' f250 6 speed..
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 10:49 AM
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Help with abbreviations

What is a "HPOP"? Or an "IP". Is there a place I could use to look up these abbreviations? I know it's easier to use them, but being fairly new at this, I have no clue what you're talking about.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 02:57 PM
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Post HPOP= High Pressure Oil Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by ataboc View Post
What is a "HPOP"? Or an "IP". Is there a place I could use to look up these abbreviations? I know it's easier to use them, but being fairly new at this, I have no clue what you're talking about.

HPOP High Pressure Oil Pump

IP Injector Pressure should be IPS Injector Pressure Sensor or IPR Injector Pressure Regulator They are all part of the high pressure oil system that runs the injectors.

Hope this helps Sound kind of strange untill you get used to it.

Keep learning, it's a good thing..........

11 F-350 crew short 4x4 auto 6.7L PSD
Stock and good to go for now

08 F-350 crew short 4x4 auto 6.4L PSD
Build date is 10/07
AFE Pro-Guard 7 intake
CAC pipe
Spartan
DPF "repair"
5" Flo-Pro
Bullet Proof coolers
Mag-Hytc trans and rear diff cover
otherwise Stock

99 F-250 crew short 4x4 auto 7.3L PSD
Build date is 1/99
Stage 2 injectors
ATS housing on stock turbo
4" exhaust
SS crossover
ITP regulated return w/intank mod, prefilter
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-12-2010, 02:14 AM
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good luck on reusing the plug, it only worked a couple months for me, then blew all of the threads out with the plug, along with a bunch of oil. Seattle injector had a new Bosch hpop for $250+-.

02 Ford Excursion 7.3L, 4x4, black/black trim, 4" lift, 35" duelers on (black w/chrome accents), 17's, 170K miles, Monster trans. w/John Woods accumulator, '07 Harley front end, Ranchhand bumper and Superwinch, 25" CREE LED 15,000 lumen lightbar, '08 heated mirrors, 2.5" cowl hood, Riff raff intake mod, 203 degree t-stat, Mishimoto radiator, Superchips programmer, F-350 crewcab nerf bars, Limited 2 tone leather interior, 16.5 roof mount television and Pioneer DVD touch screen head unit with 1200w amp feeding the mids and highs, and 1600w going to the 2 Rockford Fosgate 12" P3's. Viair 480C compressor and Nathan P3 train horns.

Wrecked--gone but not forgotten
01 F-350 CC DRW 4x4, bright red, 7.3
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 12:12 PM
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Diesel O rings at dieselorings.com has a kit and full instructions for less than $30 for the non-serviceable plug.

I bought their Extended O-Ring Set to rebuild leaking oil line o-ring and was very happy with their turn around and instructions.

'00 F250 XLT 4x4 (born on 6/00), manual tranny & hubs, SPA Techniques EGT/Boost Gauge, Homemade HX Crossover Mod & Return Fuel Regulator, Toro Liner, 203* T-stat and Coolant Filter, LUK Clutch, flywheel & pressure plate, Amsoil Dual Bypass Filter
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 12:44 AM
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buyer beware!!! The plugs are red lock-tighted in and pull threads when start leaking

Do not re seal an hpop unless you want a tow bill in the near future. They only seem to leak when threads get stressed due to high pressure oil. Seattle injector sells new Bosch hpop's for under $500. I did the o-ring kit and 2 weeks later a plug blew out and left me stranded.

02 Ford Excursion 7.3L, 4x4, black/black trim, 4" lift, 35" duelers on (black w/chrome accents), 17's, 170K miles, Monster trans. w/John Woods accumulator, '07 Harley front end, Ranchhand bumper and Superwinch, 25" CREE LED 15,000 lumen lightbar, '08 heated mirrors, 2.5" cowl hood, Riff raff intake mod, 203 degree t-stat, Mishimoto radiator, Superchips programmer, F-350 crewcab nerf bars, Limited 2 tone leather interior, 16.5 roof mount television and Pioneer DVD touch screen head unit with 1200w amp feeding the mids and highs, and 1600w going to the 2 Rockford Fosgate 12" P3's. Viair 480C compressor and Nathan P3 train horns.

Wrecked--gone but not forgotten
01 F-350 CC DRW 4x4, bright red, 7.3
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 05:54 AM
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Nice information...
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 11:21 AM
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I have rebuilt mine in the past with a new plug and had no problems.
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Update from OP!!

Just an update. 10 years and 200,000+ miles later, the repair is still holding just fine!

2003 F250 7.3 CC SWB 4X4
300,000 miles
All Stock except for:
-DP Tuner
-305/70/16 Bridgestone Dueler A/T
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