I recently installed a new factory Navistar/IH water pump into my 2000 F350 7.3L, in place of the stock Ford aluminum pump.
I had recently changed out a Navistar pump on T444e (in an older 4300-Series dump truck) at my work. I got a good look at it, and determined that it would be a perfect fit into my Ford truck.
My stock pump had recently began a slow, weeping leak at the top of the pump, where it seals against the block, when the engine was cold. This pump was only a few years old, and was a replacement from a popular automtive parts retailer.
The main reasons for my choosing the Navistar pump over the stock Ford pump were:
1. The Navistar pump is all cast iron. Obviously, it's a bit heavier than the Ford pump, but it is very well built, and (IMO) designed to last MUCH longer than the POS aluminum pump.
2. It has an integral COOLANT FILTER! I had been wanting to install a filter on the cooling system for some time, and this was the perfect setup! No hoses, no brackets, no hanging add-on filters that just don't seem to fit right anywhere. The filter mount is built-in to the pump, is easily accesible on the truck, and is properly designed to work with the pump and engine.
I didn't get into the "HOW TO's" of removing the stock pump in this thread. You should be able to get through that part. I have only documented the details and differences of the Navistar Pump install.
If you click the "thumbnail" images below, it will open a larger, more detailed image.
Okay, so on to the install:
The part number for the Navistar pump is: 1831676C92
The obvious main physical difference from the Ford pump is the water inlet: it is on the right side (passenger side) of the pump. The stock Ford pump inlet is on the left. However, the radiator outlet is also on the right, and with just a small modification of the hose: NO PROBLEM.
Note that the Navistar pump's built-in coolant filter occupies the space where the inlet-horn formerly was (on the stock Ford pump). Thus, it is easily accessable from the below once the pump is installed...
Here are the two pumps for comparison:
(Note: The Navistar pump comes as bare cast iron. I sprayed it with silver-aluminum Krylon for a little extra protection...and, it looks much better!)
The thermostat used in the Navistar pump is the original "Short stem" design (shown on the left, in the Pic below).
VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT USE THE "LONG STEM" THERMOSTAT that is used in the later-model Ford pump.
It will COMPLETELY block the bypass port in the Navistar pump, causing there to be NO coolant circulation at all. You MUST
use the SHORT STEM THERMOSTSAT
The short stem thermo' is readily available. I purchased the one shown here from O'Reily's (about $12). The O'Reily's part number is: 4252
. I specified a thermo' for a 1995 Ford Pickup with the 7.3L diesel engine.
As a side benefit: It's also a 203°
'stat. The 203°
is what was originally supplied in the Navistar (T444e) engines, and is also what Ford used in the earlier Powerstroke versions. I believe it was changed to 192°
as a way to conform to the ever-tightening emissions regulations.
Although there is some (much) debate as to whether it is better to use 203°
or a 192°
, that is a discussion for another thread.
YOU CAN ALSO GET A 192* SHORT STEM 'STAT IF YOU WANT IT! Just specify the cooler temp when you purchase the thermostat. (sorry, I don't have that p/n.)
Yes, the stock thermostat outlet fits perfectly on the Navistar pump. Or, you can install the "trick" billet aluminum one. Either works equally well. (However, the stock one is a lot easier on the wallet).
The water pump uses a total of 9 mounting bolts to secure it it the front of the engine. 4 of the 9 also pass through and secure the engine front-cover (timing/cam gear cover) to the engine block. This cover is what forms the back side of the water pump (the pump volute) as well as the base for the LPO & HPO pumps, and part of the oil cooler mount.
The bolts are all metric size, M8 x 1.25. There are three different lengths used for the stock pump, as shown in the Pic below (110mm, 80mm, and 30mm). Since the Navistar pump has a slightly different shape (with the inlet being on the other side), a couple of the stock Ford bolts must be substituted.
If you use the original factory bolts that came out, you will need to purchase 3 additional bolts: Two bolts @ 60mm long, and one bolt @ 110mm long. You will then have the three original bolts left over after your install (two 30 mm and one 80 mm).
The bolts were readily available at a local NAPA store. Unfortunately, Autozone, O'Reily's, etc., were not able to supply them (at least they were not an "in-stock" item).
In the case of my pump install, I decided to replace ALL of the bolts with new ones: Four @ 110mm long, Two @ 60mm long, and Three @ 30mm long (all M8x1.25), along with flat washers for under the heads.
(Note: The picture says "35mm bolts". That should have been "30mm bolts")
PUMP BODY MODIFICATION
Next: there is a bolt-boss cast into the the front of the Navistar pump (I believe this was for an additional pulley on the T444e engine). This boss will need to be cut or ground down about 3/8".
I used a 4-1/2" grinder with a "cut-off" wheel in it, and just shaved off about 3/8". You could also simply grind or sand it down with a grinding or sanding wheel. Or, if you have access to a milling machine (and wanted to be really fancy!) you could mill it off.
In any case, it needs to be cut down a bit (3/8" minimum, to all the way flush, maximum), otherwise the belt will interfere with it once the pump's installed. It could also be cut-off after the pump is installed in the truck (on the engine)...but it's much easier to do on the bench!
HEATER HOSE ROUTING
There are several "extra" pipe ports in the Navistar pump. However, the new pump came complete with a bag of pipe plugs for use in plugging the unused ports. The temperature sender installs in a port near the thermostat, the same location as the Ford pump. Use the supplied plugs to block off all the other unused ports, as necessary.
The heater return hose, which originally connected at the front/top of the stock Ford pump (above the pulley) will now need to be relocated to the inlet horn on the new Navistar pump. I used the 1/2" pipe port on the side of the inlet, behind the larger 3/4" port, in the picture (sorry, didn't get a shot of it!). Aim the fitting upward in order to connect it to the heater hose. You may need to fine-tune the angle once the pump is in (or do a "test-fit" for hose position, prior to final install).
I used a 1/2" pipe 90-deg hose elbow fitting. Seal the pipe threads with your favorite dope, teflon tape, etc.
For the heater hose: You can cut the original factory "cold" (return) hose and re-route it (using some additional off-the-shelf 5/8" heater hose and a hose-to-hose coupler) along side the factory "hot" hose, down to the new location on the Navistar pump.
HOWEVER, on my install, I used a new factory Ford "HOT" hose in place of the original "cold" hose. I routed it right along with the original "hot" hose, down to the right side of the block. It was plenty long enough to reach the new connection spot on the Navistar pump inlet. And, it looks TOTALLY factory! The heater hose factory Ford part number is: F81Z-18472-MAA
(it also had a "KH-260" on the label).
Continued in the next post...