Navistar / IH Water Pump Upgrade - Page 5 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L Engine FAQ Frequently asked questions in the Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L Engine forum.

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post #61 of 78 (permalink) Old 08-02-2014, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calico5string View Post
If your truck's put together right, and maintained, from the get-go, it won't breakdown "in the middle of no where"...
The only way to guarantee that it won't breakdown "in the middle of no where" is to never go "in the middle of no where".

I go above and beyond in maintaining my vehicles. Many people call me "anal" about vehicle maintenance. But "stuff" happens.

2002 F-250 CCLB 4x4 XLT, 7.3, ZF-6 with Midwest Short-throw shifter, ESOF, 3.73 R&P, HPx line, FRx, Racor prefilter before pump, Amsoil bypass filter, Coolant filter too
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post #62 of 78 (permalink) Old 08-02-2014, 04:52 PM
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I have to agree with you txgp17,it doesn't matter what W/P you have if it's mechanical it can break where ever you are.


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03 F250 4x4 CC 7.3ltr 4R100HD rebuilt, 160,000 Klms
GTP38R , Turbo-master , IH Bellowed up pipes, RiffRaff CAC boot kit, AIH delete, .
4" Turbo back exhaust ,Banks power elbow, LPG (Gas over diesel) DP F6 tuner, 40hp tow, 60hp tow, 80hp tow, 60hp, 80hp, 120hp race, Decel, 1200 RPM.
RiffRaff 6637 intake ,pre filter, Snorkle
Custom made trans cooler with twin thermo fans ,water to oil cooler
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Longrange 120 ltr fuel tank and transfer pump, 15,000 lb winch, Warn winch bar, Lightforce HID spot lights, HID headlights, Black Widow Drawer System, Snugtop Canopy with gull windows, Fr & Rr ARB Diff locks, Hornblaster Train horns, Post fuel pump filter, RiffRaff FRx and HPx , Bilsteins x4, Onboard compressor , Air tank and water traps, Billet door handles, Alpine headset, Alpine overhead DVD player, Rockford Fosgate sub, Alpine amp and CD changer.
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post #63 of 78 (permalink) Old 08-04-2014, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calico5string View Post
"Spin speed": The pump's RPM is more of a function of the pulley sizes rather than the actual engine speed, for a given engine/setup. In my case, neither the crank nor pump pulleys were changed from the original Ford configuration, therefore the water-moving aspect (i.e. pump RPM) is the same as the original pump.
Exactly the point. By not changing the pulley (and no pulley change is expected in this retrofit), the IH pump is being asked to spin at the original Ford pump's RPM. If the IH pulley and the Ford pulley are the same diameter, then the IH pump will now be operating at higher rpms than the T444e engine operated at, based on the torque/HP and governed speeds published by IH.

This is not a bone of contention, it is just another consideration when choosing to deviate from OEM.
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post #64 of 78 (permalink) Old 08-04-2014, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by calico5string View Post
BTW, the "Navistar" pump setup being sold as a "kit" on a certain vendor website is NOT a "factory" IH (Navistar) pump.

After a close examination of the pictures on the vendor site, the pump they are selling is almost guaranteed to be a cheap Chinese knock-off.

There are certain characteristic marks that are on a "real" Navistar pump, and theirs does NOT have them.

I would not expect a Chinese POS to have the quality of the real thing...nor the life expectancy.

THANK YOU!

It is good that people know what they are actually getting... even when it is marketed as an "International" part.
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post #65 of 78 (permalink) Old 04-02-2015, 10:35 PM
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Purchased mine from the local IH dealer and installed December 2013. Still working fine. The hose is the flex hose from NAPA. ANY long hose would work in a pinch. Again, I did this mod exclusively with the hope that the pump will last longer than the original and the aftermarket ones I had before. Only time will tell but I feel it is a worth while endeavor. No one else should do this mod until mine fails and I report how long it lasted. That is unless you are comfortable working outside of the box like me.

I had a leak in the heater hose coming off the driver side at the rear of the engine. When pulling the clamp and hose off the fitting at the bottom the cheap ass plastic connector at the top broke off. I used a screwdriver to remove the rest of the fitting and put a 5/8" inch hose with a clamp on both ends eliminating the Ford engineered plastic fitting at the top. I am sure this is a better solution than replacing the plastic fitting. And if my hose breaks in the middle of nowhere,... I will replace it with a spare piece I have that can be sourced at any auto parts store.

David Dunbar
2003 4x4 7.3 Excursion Ltd
4" exhaust, Tymar DIY, Vcode & modified Fcode, Helwig, Inappropriately valved Bilsteins, Isspro 3 gauge w/ windshield mount, DP tuner 80-60tow-40tow-HI, 6.0 31-row ATF cooler,
BTS Transmission, DI Up pipes
Tomball Texas
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post #66 of 78 (permalink) Old 06-11-2015, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txgp17 View Post
The only way to guarantee that it won't breakdown "in the middle of no where" is to never go "in the middle of no where".

I go above and beyond in maintaining my vehicles. Many people call me "anal" about vehicle maintenance. But "stuff" happens.
I have always heard there are no guarantees in this life except for death and taxes ;-)

But I think we would all agree that if we did have to drive to the middle of nowhere that each of us would hope to make the drive in a well maintained vehicle.

Cheers


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

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post #67 of 78 (permalink) Old 11-07-2015, 02:36 PM
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I'm finishing up my install today and I am using the flex hose. I was also initially worried about roadside repairs and parts availability, but I solved the problem. I bagged up my old bolts and thermostat and tucked them under my hood in a nook by the battery. If the pump goes out on the road I can always switch back to stock. I've always inspect my hoses regularly during routine maintenance and never known one to have a catastrophic failure without warning, so I'm not too worried about the hard to source lower. I did my conversion for the filter and hotter thermostat. The cast iron pump's increased durability for me is nominal. The cost difference between factory style and the IH is relatively insignificant if you are replacing everything anyway and spend a little time sourcing your parts. The only other concern I have heard about the swap is how the engine's RPM affects of the pump. I'm no expert but I know both the IH and Powerstroke have the same coolant flow requirements as they are the same engine. The pumps both have the same dimensions and fin design meaning they have the same peak operational RPM. I think it would be reasonable to assume both engines have pulley configuration designed to keep the water pump at that ideal RPM, making overall engine speed irrelevant.

I think I will ultimately be satisfied with the swap and if not I'll share my experience. Side note I got all my parts from Rock Auto except the Gates lower hose which I found cheaper on Amazon for $30.

Last edited by Amazingspiderpig; 11-07-2015 at 02:55 PM.
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post #68 of 78 (permalink) Old 02-05-2016, 08:14 PM
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February 2016 and mine is still working without issues. It has lasted much longer than the 1 year or so I got from the CarQuest unit. Now lets see if it surpasses the ten years I got from the one that came installed at the factory in 2003.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunbar View Post
Purchased mine from the local IH dealer and installed December 2013. Still working fine. The hose is the flex hose from NAPA. ANY long hose would work in a pinch. Again, I did this mod exclusively with the hope that the pump will last longer than the original and the aftermarket ones I had before. Only time will tell but I feel it is a worth while endeavor. No one else should do this mod until mine fails and I report how long it lasted. That is unless you are comfortable working outside of the box like me.

I had a leak in the heater hose coming off the driver side at the rear of the engine. When pulling the clamp and hose off the fitting at the bottom the cheap ass plastic connector at the top broke off. I used a screwdriver to remove the rest of the fitting and put a 5/8" inch hose with a clamp on both ends eliminating the Ford engineered plastic fitting at the top. I am sure this is a better solution than replacing the plastic fitting. And if my hose breaks in the middle of nowhere,... I will replace it with a spare piece I have that can be sourced at any auto parts store.

David Dunbar
2003 4x4 7.3 Excursion Ltd
4" exhaust, Tymar DIY, Vcode & modified Fcode, Helwig, Inappropriately valved Bilsteins, Isspro 3 gauge w/ windshield mount, DP tuner 80-60tow-40tow-HI, 6.0 31-row ATF cooler,
BTS Transmission, DI Up pipes
Tomball Texas
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post #69 of 78 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 12:26 AM
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Still working fine

July 2017 and still no issues with my conversion. I need to check my logs on when I last replaced the filter. I keep one in the rr quarter panel with the jack along with an extra belt. The WIX unit works fine. If it gets to clogged up it will weep at the seal telling you it's time to replace it. I think that happened once to me. If I happened to purchase a new to me truck with a 7.3 I would install this unit as a maintenance item right away.

David Dunbar
2003 4x4 7.3 Excursion Ltd
4" exhaust, Tymar DIY, Vcode & modified Fcode, Helwig, Inappropriately valved Bilsteins, Isspro 3 gauge w/ windshield mount, DP tuner 80-60tow-40tow-HI, 6.0 31-row ATF cooler,
BTS Transmission, DI Up pipes
Tomball Texas
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post #70 of 78 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 06:32 PM
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It's a shame the photos aren't visible....

2001 F250 CC 4x4 7.3
  • ATS Exhaust
  • Riffraff Intake
  • PHP Hydra Chip
  • 285/75R16 Toyo Open Country R/T
  • Access Bed Cover
  • 05-07 Harley Headlights with Morimoto 55w D2S 5.0 Projectors / 80mm RGB Halos / RGB Demon Eyes / Morimoto Bluetooth Controller / Yellow LED Strip / Switchback LED Turn signal
  • Raptor Style Grill
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post #71 of 78 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 08:17 AM
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post #72 of 78 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 11:55 PM
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Thanks

2001 F250 CC 4x4 7.3
  • ATS Exhaust
  • Riffraff Intake
  • PHP Hydra Chip
  • 285/75R16 Toyo Open Country R/T
  • Access Bed Cover
  • 05-07 Harley Headlights with Morimoto 55w D2S 5.0 Projectors / 80mm RGB Halos / RGB Demon Eyes / Morimoto Bluetooth Controller / Yellow LED Strip / Switchback LED Turn signal
  • Raptor Style Grill
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post #73 of 78 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 09:28 AM
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WOW!
This thread is still alive.... after 6 years!

I posted this (under my old username). Glad to see people are still enjoying/debating the Navistar pump install.

BTW, mine is still running just fine! (Same one as in the original pics at the beginning of the thread...)

~Al

Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd w/CoreShifters Short-throw Stick
GearVendors O/U Drive

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Last edited by Calico5; 09-09-2018 at 05:04 PM.
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post #74 of 78 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 10:38 AM
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For comparison, I will report on my aluminum water pump. This was installed on 5/2/2018. It is AIRTEX AW4114 from RockAuto. It was installed along with Gooch flush, new thermostat, thermostat housing, fan, fan clutch, radiator, and Shell Rotella Ultra ELC. So far, no problems. It is working perfectly.

2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.

2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
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post #75 of 78 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 03:05 PM
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Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd w/CoreShifters Short-throw Stick
GearVendors O/U Drive

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