Join Date: Apr 2018
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Thought I would update this thread for anyone else that runs across this issue. After pulling my EGR cooler to weld it up I had a small coolant leak, had to add about a half gallon of coolant every month. Not a big deal and I didnt notice any fluid on the driveway or anything so I ignored it. Well I was working on my 4x4 hubs and saw coolant leaking from above the starter. Traced it back to the blue coupler. I decided to play with the coupler a bit to see if I could get it to seal. Couldn't really tell if it was leaking or not after but didn't think it would be worse than before. I was wrong, drove to town and when I parked coolant was pouring from the coupler. Got the truck home and first tried to put a hose clamp on the coupler as someone else mentioned. This didn't work for me. I used heater hose without pulling the turbo.
What I did to fix:
1)Did not have to pull the turbo, only the CAC tube and pushed the injector and glow plug harness forwards.
2)Removed the two T30 torx bolts from the coolant tube above the oil cooler. The bolt under the turbo is a B*#&h to get to, but with an angle extension and a socket torx I was able to get it, I had to set the torx back on the bolt about every half turn and then re-mount the angle extention, so it took some time but was doable. I think with a different swivel or attachment it can be removed easier. Diesel Tech Ron (RIP) recommended cutting a torx down and welding it to a swivel.
3) Turn the blue coupler with the notch up so it slides out
4) The hardest part of the job IMO is removing the oil cooler coolant tube assembly, remove the top cover (this is easy) you will see a brass looking circle, this stays in place and the cover pulls up past it. You can't just pry only on one side because it will bind. You also can't put too much pressure or the cover will break. I used a small pry bar on the front and wiggled and pulled up at the back where the coupler attaches to get it out. It took awhile but it did come out unharmed.
5)My coupler remained on the EGR cooler when I pulled the assembly up and out so I used some channel locks to get the coupler out (make sure its still positioned correctly
6) I used 3/4 Gates heater hose cut 1/4" longer than the coupler,and two hose clamps. I tightened the front hose clamp all the way down onto the oil cooler coolant inlet, and slid the other hose clamp up next to it, snugged it so it held position but not so tight I couldn't slide it back.
7) Now slide the hose over the EGR cooler tube and press the oil cooler inlet back and down in place. (it goes in easier than it comes out) Slide the rear hose clamp to the back of the hose being careful to position it so you can still reach it with a screwdriver next to the turbo pedestal.
8) Put the top cover back on (my gasket looked fine, but i used a little rtv around it) Tighten the T30 torx back down. I torqued to 8ft lbs, idk what the torque should be but seemed about right
That's it, I feel much better about the heater hose than the blue voodoo coupler. I don't trust something that slides around and spins freely to seal up. Total cost to repair was $5. Would be a little more if you replace the 2 gaskets too (probably smart to do that). It's definitely doable without pulling the turbo though.
Last edited by Wannaspeed; 05-02-2018 at 03:50 PM.