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    HI there,
    Feel free to call me . I can give you details of what I know about this truck since he bought it. What a dealer has done and what Ive done, seen and recommended. It's in Northern Baltimore County in Monkton Md., if you want to Google distance.
    Nick
    PS. Please keep my number confidential. I know you like 6.0s so it might be a good parts truck, fixer upper or flipper.

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    5,157 Posts
    That price sounds fair. Most reasonable shops are in the $5,000 range for that work. I don't think I've heard of it being done for less than $4,500, and I usually caution people that you get what you pay for, so be wary of prices that seem too good to be true.

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    732 Posts
    question for you.
    I know you been around this stuff for a while and i was just wondering
    if I'm where i should be price wise.
    I do all powerstroke work at a shop at my house on the side not full time
    But to do a complete Bullet prof job on a 6.0 I charge $4,900-$5,000
    That is doing OEM gaskets ARP, new fuel and oil filters rocker box seals ,the oil cooler and the EGR delete with a X4 programmer sct a new serpentine belt new stand pipes and resurfaced heads.
    Is that about right??
    Thanks Dave

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    9 Posts
    Looking for some help or ideas. I have a 06 ford f250 FX4 6.0 Its Bulletproofed studs, EGR delete, oil cooler, FICM, H&S Mini Maxx, Banks 4 inch exhaust from the turbo back, Banks air intake system, Fuel pressure gauge, Oil pressure gauge, Blue spring upgrade kit, 2.5 inch leveling kit on 35 Nitto Mud Grappler. I'm looking at upgrading the intercooler and radiator with hoses and boots to Mishimoto with a coolant filter kit. Thanks for any help.

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    23 Posts
    hey tko i heard you know quiet a bit about our diesels so if you wouldnt mind id love to have your input. its to much to type but i have an open thread right now under the 6.0 aftermarket performance thread.

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    5,157 Posts
    I would consider it perfectly safe to drive. A bad injector can make the truck run poorly, but it isn't going to hurt anything or leave you stranded. Rough running that improves when warm can be an injector, but as you noted it can also be the FICM. A contribution test would be the best way to tell what's at fault.

    The only time I've heard of pushrod troubles on these trucks is after the HGs were done if the engine wasn't timed right when torquing the heads down.

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    24 Posts
    Hey TKO,
    You have helped me out allot in the past and I was wondering if you could do so again today.
    On my way home from work today, I read the code P0269 - (Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault) from my Edge tuner. I have been doing some research and pulled up that it will most likely need an injector replacement.

    Currently there are no driving problems that I notice with it, except for sometimes the start up is harsh, more so when it is cold (I figure the FICM?). I may have noticed lack of power but that could always be the placebo effect. Upon further research, I noticed that it could also be the pushrods. Is there any way to tell? As this truck is my daily driver, should I not drive it tomorrow?
    Your help is greatly appreciated.
    Roo Streba

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    5,157 Posts
    As far as other bulletproofing though I would definitely get a coolant filter on the truck. Change that filter after 1 month, then 3 months, then yearly. Flushing the cooling system and swapping over to a CAT EC-1 rated ELC is also recommended, but do those first two filter changes before doing that to try and keep stuff out of the OC. I'd repalce the hot side CAC boots. They get ruined from the oil from the CCV and crack. Speaking of which I'd mod the CCV or install a catch can to keep oil out of the intake. Another worthwhile thing is to install a 4 gauge wire from the alternator's charging post to the + terminal on the RH battery, and another from one of the alternator mounting bolts to the chassis ground lug. If you plan to plow or use a lot of power I'd upgrade the alternator, as they are barely adequate in stock form.

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    5,157 Posts
    I would first verify that the work the previous owner claims was done was actually done. Studs are easy to verify, you just look at the fasteners for the heads, the easiest ones to spot are the lower row of 5 right above the exhaust manifolds. If its a nut on a stud then the studs were done, if its a bolt then studs were not done, and at that point you have to call into question anything else he claims was done. EGR delete is likewise easy, you look down at the top of the motor, and if there's a rectangular metal object under the intake on the RH side then the EGR cooler is still there. If not, and all you see is a short section of pipe and a hose then its gone.

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    69 Posts
    Hello TKO, I've watched & read much about the 6.0 engine. It seems you've got a darn good handle on this engine, so here goes. We are dealing on a 2006 f550 with the 6.0. The owner claims head gaskets & studs done. EGR delete done. Oil cooler & turbo replaced. I will be installing a 8' service body on it. Want to do blue spring & scan gauge. Also think the FCIM upgrade thing is a good idea. What other "bulletproofing" would you recommend ?
    THX in advance.

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    It really depends on the condition of the cooling system. Restore will clean out any silicates or goo. Restore Plus is more for descaling and rust removal. Around here Restore Plus was impossible to find. I did the standard Restore flush and have had no issues over a year later. I'm also running a coolant filter, which I think traps any rust or contaminates. Change that filter after 1 month, then 3 months, then once a year. All my flushing was also done with distilled water (get at least 50 gallons if you go this route).

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    16 Posts
    Hey TKO I have seen you on alot of post geting ready put Bullet Proof EGR cooler and a new oil cooler. I was going to start flush today and put new parts on this weekend. should I just flush useing Restor or should I use restor plus also? I dont want to clog up new oil cooler. I aslo have new coolant fillter going on. any help would be awsome thanks
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