|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-04-2016 10:56 AM|
One other thing I should mention is that you should stick with your year group (99-01) on the wheel. There may be some differences in the wiring plug for the switches in 02 and later. I do know that there are lighted and unlighted switches. There are replacement cruise button sets available but I don't know if they physically fit over all years (different wheel and switch years).
Fortunately not all dealerships are as bad as DDT tale. Unfortunately many are. For new parts help, the folks at AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake have been a helpful resource for me.
|10-04-2016 09:02 AM|
That was an epic rant DDT! I love it, and it is so telling about the rude and dismissive attitude of dealerships. I feel like telling them that there are about 38 things that I am more versed at than you (criminal law, mental illness, cattle, horses, etc, which I would never throw in your face), while you have 2 on me, selling parts and service and taking my money......so don't flatter yourself! Like the subtle, but infuriating, barb my gma used to use......"We'll be praying for you". HA
|10-03-2016 03:41 AM|
Just so you know all the options..... I did what you seemed to suggest in your post. Just found the 2 wires that were capped off (or maybe they had a plug terminal at the end , I don't recall), Just twisted them together and bypassed that ONE safety feature. I am not very worried that the cruise is not going to disengage when I tap the brakes or tap the off button on the steering wheel. Since I don't use the cruise in situations where the microsecond it will take me to throw it into neutral is a concern, I didn't bother wasting lots of money installing a new master cylinder with a pressure sensor switch. CC has disengaged 100% of the time for some 4 or 5 years now.
The hardest part is finding a decent condition wheel at the wrecking yards. Many (you will find) have been exposed to the elements because of broken out windshields... I do know there are at least two different (looking) sets of wires that run in the wheel between the buttons. I ran into this issue and I am sorry I cannot tell you the specific details of just why. I believe I was told it might of been the difference between lighted & not lighted buttons. (Not sure I really believed that but who knows). All I know is the first wheel I "picked" at a wrecking yard I was told was from a same year Van and was diesel. I didn't know enough at that time to know what to look for to verify anything. That one didn't work. Got another one through the internet wrecking yard system.......It worked. Sorry I can't tell you all the details. But when you get the correct wheel it will be plug and play. No PCM reflash required. No issues with the (bypassd) MC brake system.
And as I also learned.....You didn't (HAVE) to disconnect the batteries to unplug the airbag plugs in the steering wheel.
Having said that......I wouldn't put my face near the bag either ! OR be wearing a static filled shirt or sweater.... LOL
There is no reason the clock spring should not be (ok) on a used wheel if the wheel is in good shape and does not show signs of having been turned beyond it's normal travel limits. Unless Ford is selling them at unexpected ridiculously low prices (whens the last time you ran into that situation?), Then I would go with the one on the wheel provided my above statement about wheel condition. Believe you will need to (borrow) a wheel puller from your local Autozone. And IIRC you need a fairly large Torx drive bit. The best part is......If I did it.....You can do it! LOL DDT
P.S. Your friendly & informed Ford Stealership , (If they have the same attitude as mine here East Greenwich Rhode Island. Look them up.) Will first scratch their heads and after asking why you didn't buy it with the CC. Then asking did you buy it from US? Will leave you with the parting words of "I don't think it can be done and if it can you would probably have to put a whole new wiring harness in... They will likely mention the MC R&R, But will pretty much act like.... Hit the road since you didn't allow US the privilege of selling you a new OVERPRICED vehicle. That's how Flood Ford in East Greenwich treats you. Either your here to buy a new vehicle OR you are here to drive it into our service bay so WE can do WHATEVER WE feel like doing to your truck at YOUR expense. And don't ask us about anything to specific because it's all a SECRET and we are not going to tell you ANYTHING we think will help you do the job yourself. A more MISERABLE bunch of people you will never likely meet!
Oh,,,,,The estimated cost for THEM to do what they don't even know if they can do....
Over $1200!!!!!!!!!!!!! DDT
|10-02-2016 11:18 PM|
klhansen! Your old posts from years ago are how I learned what I needed in the first place! Thx brother! I'll let you know how it goes friend!
|10-02-2016 10:15 PM|
|klhansen||I converted my truck using a kit that Ford sold (no longer available). I would avoid a used clock spring (to avoid getting a bad one). Go to fordparts.com and search under your year and model. There should be cruise and non-cruise options. A used storing wheel should be ok as long as you check the switches before installing it. I believe gas and diesel are the same. On the master cylinder switch, I would either install the master cylinder with the switch or rig a switch on the brake pedal. The Ford kit came with a switch and bracket to do the latter.|
|10-02-2016 02:22 PM|
2001 7.3L ADD CRUISE
Hello friends. I have never posted on any forum whatsoever, but I have decided to give it a shot, as I'm trying to get my father's 2001 7.3 4x4 auto back in shape. I'm currently trying to install cruise, as it had none from the factory. I have read dozens of posts, and understand that I can simply buy the appropriate steering wheel and clock spring, then jump the terminated dummy 2-wire connector under the fuse box that would have gone to the non-existent sensor on the MC, and I'm good?? What are my options regarding the donor vehicle wheel? Some have told me that the wheel has to be off of a diesel, but others have said no? Also, do different clock springs work with different wheels? How closely must they match to be compatible? Thx y'all....Joe