|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-29-2017 12:49 PM|
As a boater, I've owned a 12v boat oil change pump setup for 15 years. On the boat, it's used to draw oil back up the dipstick tube (because you can't get underneath an engine down in the engine compartment). Anyway, the motor is bolted to the top lid of a 5 gallon bucket. It is reversible so that you can draw the oil out the engine, then pump it into your waste container. It makes it very easy to get the oil out of the drain pan after draining your car/truck oil. No more mess, no worrying about balancing pans and pouring into waste containers. Pricey, but everything "boat" is.
|05-24-2017 11:18 AM|
|EpicCowlick||I did a second oil change and this time I used the slick little valve that I installed the first time around. I have to say it's pretty effortless. I used a 3/8 inch vinyl tube stuck right into an old yellow diesel fuel can, opened the valve and it was done in 15 mins. I left it there for another 5 just to see if anymore oil came and and no. I still used a little catch pan for the filter but like stated above, I don't see a way to do that easier. Best part is that I didn't have to pour the contents of that huge, heavy drain pan back into the empty oil jugs. First time I've done an oil change without some oil on my hands and at least a few splatters on the floor.|
|05-20-2017 05:09 AM|
|Captcaper||I had no issues with changing oil at every 3 or 4k miles for 125k on my 2011's plastic yellow drain plug.. liked it actually was very easy to do.. I have the EZ type valve now and don't like it... takes way to long and have to fool with the hose,etc. I have a large FloTool 58qt that works well.|
|05-17-2017 03:29 PM|
You guys are going to an awful lot of work.
I just use a 5 gallon bucket, take the plug out and catch the oil.
Filter, loosen slightly, jamb a screw driver through the bottom, let drain for 15 min, remove filter.
Not 1 drop of oil on my driveway.
|05-17-2017 01:42 PM|
Originally Posted by EpicCowlick View Post
Also, try removing the oil fill cap on top of the engine, place the hose of your shop vac over the tube & turn on the shop vac. No. You aren't vacuuming any oil out of the engine. 'Just putting a little negative pressure (vacuum) on the engine internals. Now go under the truck, remove the drain plug & oil filter. No oil should drain at all, but have a catch pan in place just in case. When you remove or turn off the shop vac the oil will drain normally, but you won't get any on your hands or make a mess. I have even removed the drain plug & installed a Fumoto Valve for myself & for others between oil changes & never spilled a drop using this method.
|03-01-2017 10:54 AM|
|Texkenusmc||Epic Cowlick find a five gallon bucket with a screw on lid it makes dumping oil easy. If you know anyone with a pool who orders their chemicals in bulk they will have some. I have plenty of them.|
|03-01-2017 06:28 AM|
|DAP||And its much easier to get an oil sample for testing.|
|02-28-2017 07:06 PM|
yup...still appears to be a bit of OCD on the valve and fast vs slow drain.....guess a titan fuel tank hanging 6" lower than stock tank is out of the question also...
If there was a problem with these valves, EZ-Drain or Fumoto, the forums would be full of bad comments and how they broke or opened randomly or failed or......
But, you know what? I haven't seen any complaints on any forum I visit about the drain valves failing or being knocked off.
|02-28-2017 06:24 PM|
I had the EZ valve on my 7.3, and the Fumoto is on the 6.4. The Fumoto came with a clip that locks the handle in place, keeping it from accidentally opening. Yeah, I know that it could still be ripped out. Both valves can be fitted with a 90-degree drain if you don't have much in the way of clearance. Also I put Teflon tape on the threads.
It makes things much easier and cleaner for doing periodic oil samples.
My stock filter setup is gone; mine is now located behind the bumper on the driver side. I punch a hole in the bottom and let it drain (there's a lot of oil in the hoses).
|02-28-2017 06:11 PM|
|shaark92||Oh ... I meant to add ... since having changed my fuel filters this past week ... I noticed you still had the factory filter ... 3rd line on the eng-compartment canister.|
|02-28-2017 04:02 PM|
Originally Posted by shaark92 View Post
|02-28-2017 03:46 PM|
Given my bad experience with the 7.3 pans ... I think a plastic one would be better anyway ... TIC. :P
I laughed hard, though, when you mentioned the flow rate. The first time I did this, I had no idea. I had the VERY same catch pan you flashed into your video ...
I testify ... what you say is TRUTH! Oil was EVERYWHERE! I now have an old school open top galvanized pan ... 15 quart capacity (which the dealership overfilled last time) Now I'm an RLI oil guy.
oil analysis pending.
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I get the 5w-40 HDMO low ash
|02-28-2017 03:35 PM|
Originally Posted by shaark92 View Post
|02-28-2017 03:32 PM|
Originally Posted by Phil G. View Post
I read another comment from a guy who cuts off the bottom of a two liter bottle and lifts it almost covering the filter. Then he unscrews the filter with the wrench until it drops into the bottle. Have to say that's clever.
But the thing I like the most is that drain cart you linked above. It's very cool but would be just another thing to store somewhere in the garage.
I'm really thinking the fears of accidental opening are overblown. Maybe if you're in a mud pit with sticks and branches? Maybe. But you can be assured I'll look under the truck a few extra times over the next cycle just to check it out.
|02-28-2017 03:31 PM|
The faster it drains, the more residual is left on the pan wall. Slower drain means more complete drain
great video. My 2011 doesn't have that type of pan, though. I have a "cam lock" o-ring. I've heard there was a recall on those pans, and I thought mine had been replaced, but maybe not?
I had the "fumoto" valve on my 7.3
loved it. I may change to this later configuration at next oil change if all I have to do is pull those dozen bolts and reinstall with a rubber seal. The cam lock deal is cool, but I'd prefer the fumoto.
Not interested in pulling the engine like I had to do twice with a rusted-out oil pan on the 7.3
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