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'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

Thread: My 7.3L won't start or even crank over Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-10-2019 09:47 PM
sd73man44 I had a similar problem with my’99. I took the starter to a shop and had it checked. They said it was good. Put it back on the truck, same problem, nothing, no crank. Kept checking everything I could think of but no luck finding a cause.
My friend said John it’s the starter. So finally I got a new starter and Bam! It’s fixed. Cranks fine now. The starter is shorted or has an open somewhere, just haven’t found time to check for fault in old starter which by the way was only two year’s old.
09-25-2019 01:14 PM
klhansen
Quote:
Originally Posted by clay02_7.3 View Post
so I have a 2002 f250 7.3 and this morning I went to start it and it clicked for the fuel pump but after that I had nothing I put a jumper pack on it and both batteries said fully charged so I don't know what it would be my dad argued and said it wasn't the starter but I think it is im just not sure.
The shift lever might be out of position. The bolts under the dash tend to get loose and introduce slop.
Did you try moving the shifter into neutral rather than park? Or just move it a bit while you turn the key to start position.
Don't condemn the starter till you test it. Roll underneath and jumper across the solenoid to see if it will start. Be darn sure it's in park with the brake set so it doesn't start and run over you.
09-25-2019 09:13 AM
clay02_7.3
wouldnt crank

so I have a 2002 f250 7.3 and this morning I went to start it and it clicked for the fuel pump but after that I had nothing I put a jumper pack on it and both batteries said fully charged so I don't know what it would be my dad argued and said it wasn't the starter but I think it is im just not sure.
01-03-2018 08:52 AM
ArcticDriver
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryansr View Post
They were showing 12.5v. I did leave them in the house overnight before installing so they would be warm. At this point, I'm just wanting to get the starter to bump.

What's the point in having several threads for the same problem? I'd think it would make more sense to have like conversations grouped together.
Its less confusing. For example, I open a thread and I start reading the first page and that problem and its symptoms were resolved years ago. Its a bit inconvenient to have to look at the date of each post to see if its 4 years old, 6 months old or if its the current issue.

Plus many of us take a glance at this site throughout the day on iPhone and iPad and its a pain to scroll through to the bottom and to see the small print of who is posting what. I might attempt researching your original post with your original description of symptoms and scroll back a page and wind up reading the symptoms of some previous poster not identical to your own.

Ofcourse, its your choice to post any method you prefer but I think you might get more involvement if you post your issue fresh.
01-03-2018 12:14 AM
ArcticDriver Are you sure your new 880 cca batteries are fully charged?

You might want to start a new thread with your problem.
09-02-2017 04:28 PM
Peter weichman I'm having a similar problem, which fuse was the blown one.
07-09-2017 01:20 PM
DieselExhausted Awesome, congrats! Glad you finally found it!!!!
07-09-2017 12:09 AM
klhansen Hey, sorry about not getting back to you with a wiring diagram. Seems I'm suffering from CRS lately.

Glad you got it fixed. That's why I always use a meter to check fuses. I've won few flat forehead awards as well, like expecting the engine to start without the engine harness plugged in.
07-08-2017 06:59 PM
Para_Bellum FINALLY FIXED. Does The Diesel Stop have some kind of bonehead award because I should get it if they do. After basically checking the entire starting system from one end to the other I looked one more time and found that my issue was a bloody fuse. Not the smaller kind you can easily test, attached is a photo of the busted fuse, which I looked at several times before today, when I finally pulled it out and popped off the cover to confirm it was in fact blown. Also attached is a diagram I found online of the fuse panel for a 2006 6.0 which matches the late 2003 7.3 liters after they changed some of the wiring, hopefully this helps someone else with late 7.3 fuse questions.

After a long week of searching, I'm not even mad that I missed this fix or how simple it was, I'm just glad it wasn't something worse, glad it is fixed, and glad that I now know everything else on the starting system is good and know a lot more about my truck in general. Thanks everyone for your help.

Cheers.
07-08-2017 09:59 AM
Para_Bellum
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselExhausted View Post
Para_Bellum,
I found my issue and am sharing in the hopes that it'll solve yours as well.
Like you, everything from the starter relay on the fender to the starter is fine. Fuses fine. Tested my ignition switch, that tested fine in all positions. Here's what I did...

Check to see that you have 12v going to your fuse #3 (20A) in the Power Distribution Box. Set your multimeter to DCV, connect one lead to the neg terminal on the battery and probe the fuse with the other lead. Should read ~12v on both posts. If you don't show power, the problem is between the Starter Relay on the fender and the fuse -- most likely one of the fusible links. If you do have power, pull the fuse and probe the terminals that the fuse plugs into to see which one has power. The one that does not have power is the wire going to your ignition switch.

Set your multimeter to Ohms to check continuity. Test continuity between the non-powered terminal and the connector at the ignition switch (B4 in the diagram that RT sent). Mine showed an open line, no continuity.

After much blood, sweat, expletives and gnashing of teeth I traced the issue to a corroded and broken wire inside the Power Distribution Box, which coincidentally was the output wire from fuse #3. A couple of snips, strips, and a $.10 connector later to splice the wire back together and I'm back in business. Once fixed, you should show continuity all the way from the STA pin on the ignition switch to the ignition wire at the Starter Relay, and when you turn the ignition to Start you should see ~12v at the end of that same wire.

Hope this helps.
--JB
JB - now that I've tested everything else and confirmed the issue is somewhere between the key and junction box (but not the ignition switch or a wire that's clearly visible), I wanted to confirm before pulling the junction box again - was your issue a wire INSIDE the box opposed to one that plugs into it? When I re-read your post that's what I am thinking now but wasn't sure if the fuse panel (junction box) actually comes apart to see the wires inside?
07-07-2017 10:23 PM
Para_Bellum Alright fellas - I'm at a loss. I pulled the central junction box (CJB) and found no breaks or shorts in the wires behind it. Next I traced the starter motor ignition wire back through the firewall and into the CJB, I tested that wire for continuity and confirmed that the wiring from the back of the CJB all the way to the starter motor is good.

I previously tested the ignition switch following the procedure that RT provided (I only tested the four positions for the start circuit) and found no issues.

I thought my issue may be the DTRS/Safety neutral, I swapped the DTRS for a brand-new one but still no luck.

I previously checked all fuses and relays - they all seem to be good.

I have no idea what else I can check, it seems I'm not getting power to/through the CJB to the actual ignition wire for the starter - anyone have any ideas what else I can check or have a diagram of the actual circuitry of the CJB?

Thanks in advance and thanks for all the input from everyone so far, I've been able to narrow this down but still haven't pinpointed the issue.
07-07-2017 11:12 AM
Para_Bellum Thanks RT, that makes sense, glad to know it's not just something that's not lining up in my truck versus a somewhat unreliable manual.

If you can shoot me a photo of your fuse panel that would be awesome, I'll just make sure mine lines up and fill in any empty spots accordingly. Next step once all the fuses are there is to trace the wires behind it as JB suggested to see if I have a break that's preventing the ignition from actually getting the ignition voltage to the starter motor.
07-07-2017 10:35 AM
RT I have found the manual is less than reliable on identifying all fuses. Any slot that has two prongs in it should be considered used by something, so I wouldn't go pulling fuses that were there out all willy-nilly. Ford didn't put extra fuses in unused slots out of the goodness of their heart.

I have an 03 as well, so if it would be helpful, I can take pictures of any area that you need.
07-07-2017 09:42 AM
Para_Bellum Bump on the wiring/fuse diagram - anyone have one that looks like my fuse panel? My issue is that the 2003 manual available on Ford's website has a lot of spots marked "not used" that I have fuses in...?
07-06-2017 01:00 PM
klhansen That last photo of yours doesn't look stock. I'm guessing someone put a remote start/alarm in at one time. That relay may be to prevent cranking if the engine is running.

Looks like you have a fun time ahead of you cleaning up.

If I can remember, I'll see if I can get you a wiring diagram tonight.
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