|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-18-2018 08:14 AM|
|stevedunham-2||The issue seems to have been resolved by replacing the engine harness as it hasn't left me stranded since that weekend and the engine is running better than it has in years. Upon inspecting the old harness for signs of wear, there was a repair done by somebody without my knowledge (Ford...?) that looks suspect but other than that, no obvious signs of chafing, wear through, etc.|
|04-10-2018 03:48 PM|
Spoke too soon........ Drove it yesterday and pulled codes with AE. The P132B did not come back, nor did the codes for the #1 Injector, etc. It still blows black smoke, maybe not quite as much as previously... This AM I went back out to do the Shop Vac trick to find any exhaust leaks. I found 2, 1 at the 4" downpipe slip joint down back behind the engine, and the other at the Test Pipe flange way down the exhaust system under the truck. Everything under the hood was tight, no air leaking there. I don't think the 2 leaks I found are a problem since they are not in the exhaust manifold/Turbo loop... I then decided to go for another ride and ---- NO START ---. No cam/crank synch, no FICM synch again.... FiretrUCK....! I fired up AE, and monitored FICM Synch and CMP/CKP Synch while cranking. Both were 0. I jiggled the engine harness right behind the fuel bowl fuel lines, and tried again... After a long crank, it fired... In AE, the FICM Synch stayed at 1, and the Cam/Crank Synch jumps back and forth between 1 and 0 very rapidly for as long as the truck runs... I also noticed the VGT Learn cycle kicked in again with VGT % cycling between 14% and 85%, then settling at 74% idling... I still have an issue no doubt... I'm leaning towards the harness being damaged right at the fuel filter bowl/fuel lines...
It's a good thing I don't have to rely on this truck for anything, other than for it to be a constant source of aggravation, which it excels at above any other vehicle I own...
|04-09-2018 03:42 PM|
|stevedunham-2||Well, it's a bona-fide "Festivus Miracle", it runs again... I decided to check the pigtail repair using continuity (both wires beeped, so good) and then connected a small 12 volt battery to both wires and tested each at the CamShaft Circuit pins on the middle of the 3 PCM connectors and they pass voltage just fine... I then reconnected the connectors and put the battery back into its place. I reconnected the CMP pigtail to the new Motorcraft Cam Sensor. I thought about pulling the #1 injector connector to see if that was the issue (based on earlier DTC Code), but decided to run the Injector Buzz test again and they all sounded fine... I ran KOEO and it passed several times, so the PCM appears to be responding with no codes. I then messed around a little with the main harness where it runs between the Fuel Bowl metal lines and the Oil Filter tower, and there was a very distinct indentation in the loom there... No wear through, but it's been pushing there pretty hard... I made some adjustments here and there to get the loom from pushing on the fuel line and added a piece of rubber there for a bit of protection... I then jumped in the truck just for the hell of it, and it fired up... I then let it warm up and ran the AE VGT%, MGP, EBP, MAP test to verify VGT function, but it's not that easy in my truck... For some reason (PCM flash perhaps..?) there is no EBP to monitor when in AE Live Data Mode. So, I commanded EGR closed, RPM to 1250, and monitored VGT %, MAP, MGP, EGR, and then commanded the Turbo open and closed... MAP follows VGT up and down as it's supposed to, there is basically no reading for EGR no matter what other than 0.00 unless I command it to some number using the Actuation function... When commended, EGR does open and close loosely to what is commanded. The Turbo goes to 85% when commanded Closed, and 0.00 when commanded Open... The exhaust note is deep and rumbly when Open at 0.00% (was expecting 14.5 - 15%), and there is the high pitched whistle when closed at 85%... The Turbo vanes appear to not be stuck. After I finished that, the engine went into learn mode on its own and the VGT % went back and forth between 85% and 14% - 5 times, then settled at 62% at idle... I'm starting to get real suspicious of the engine harness where it passes behind the fuel filter/fuel lines... I also noticed that while monitoring CMP/CKP Synch with AE, it bounces back and forth between 1 and 0 every few seconds... I will test drive it now and pull the codes again to see what pops up...|
|04-08-2018 09:41 AM|
I really don't know if a successful buzz test would guarantee no issues w/ injector coils, sorry.
What sticks in my gut is your surprise "pop" and smoke.
Sure sounds like you have electrical current somewhere that it shouldn't be.
Did you ever monitor Vreference voltage? Can't recall.
|04-08-2018 08:30 AM|
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Would it not be safe to assume that running the Injector Buzz Test using AE would determine the health of the Injectors, and determine if 1 had a shorted coil or not? In other words, would a successful Buzz test indicate all Injectors are good, and the harness/connectors to the Injectors, which was new in June, 2015?
|04-08-2018 08:26 AM|
|stevedunham-2||I plan to run the MAF, MAP, MGP, VGT test procedure to determine cause of the P132B code once I get the truck to start, but at the moment, getting it to start is the issue. Or the 1st issue anyway. I ran the Injector Buzz Test 2x and both were successful in a hope to verify if I had an actual Injector issue or not. I'm assuming if I had a shorted Injector, I'd get a code after running the Buzz test, or a Failure result in AE. I also ran the KOEO test 3x and all 3 were successful; was hoping to get more evidence of a bad PCM... I checked the PCM fuse and relay, swapped both with known good, and no improvement. The FICM voltages all look acceptable, and it's a Swamp's Diesel 58 V FICM, not the original. I will test the pigtail repair today by probing the corresponding pins at the PCM harness and putting 12 volts at the pigtail pins to make sure I have a good pigtail circuit/repair. I will also probe the PCM connector to make sure I have 12 Volts from the batts. If nothing comes from that, I'll pull the #1 Injector connector and see if I get Cam/Crank Synch, FICM Synch and it fires to determine if the #1 is indeed the cause. Of course none of this is going to happen until it stops snowing here, which is has been doing all night...|
|04-07-2018 02:27 PM|
Sorry I hadn't responded. Too many irons in the fire.
Unfortunately the shorted injector coil issue can happen without a DTC being thrown.
You can disconnect the injector without tearing down the top of the engine.
I hear what you are saying about the turbo re-learn cycle, but P132b will be set if the PCM determines that there is something wrong with what it learned for MAP and MAF as it relates to VGT duty cycle.
|04-07-2018 01:45 PM|
Swapped out the Flagship One PCM for the stock PCM and no change, still no Cam/Crank Synch, no FICM Synch, no start... Double checked the Cam sensor pigtail repair and made sure the wiring orientation from the connector was correct and it was... I have good IPR, oil level is correct, I have fuel, and 60 PSI of fuel pressure when cranking, it just won't fire... I cleared the Enhanced Powertrain and Generic Powertrain DTC's, cranked the engine over 5 - 6 times, re-ran the DTC's and none of them pop back up... My FICM appears to have the correct Voltages when cranking so I am not leaning towards a failed FICM nor PCM at this point... I get RPM on the Scangauge II when cranking so I'm pretty confident the Crank Sensor is fine... When I turn the key to start, I get the 30 second WTS light on the dash, so I'm fairly confident the GPCM is working, although I did have a code for a that.. I'm wondering if I got a bad Cam Sensor (new Motorcraft) as it tested at only 794 Ohms and the acceptable range is 800 - 1000 Ohms tested between the 2 pins... If my #1 Cylinder Injector is indeed shorted out, should I not be able to get the engine to fire if I simply disconnect the #1 Injector harness from the Injector and try to start it....? If a shorted #1 Injector coil is causing a no cam/crank synch, and I disconnect it, the PCM and FICM won't be able to know the Injector is at fault and I should then get cam/crank synch and it should fire in theory... I would expect to then see a DTC code for the #1 Injector, and that would go along way toward verifying that is the problem vs. tearing down the top of the engine again just to check it out...
Also, since no on has responded to any updates I've written here in the last week or so, I'm pretty sure I'm having a conversation with myself at this point...
|04-06-2018 04:05 PM|
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
When disassembling the Turbo Cold Air Intake (S&B) to make room to work on the CMP Pigtail repair, I found the plastic tube that connects to the Turbo was melted inward and left a large Air/Dirt gap just before the Turbo... I replaced that S&B part with the stock Turbo tube. I watched DieselTech Ron's VGT relearn Vid before the last time I ran the VGT relearn and yes, the engine was up to temp and the AE PID for "Engine Conditions met for VGT Learn" was good at 1... I heard the VGT vanes open and close (changing exhaust note coincided with the vanes), and watched the Scangauge II PID for VGT % go from 84% to 15% and back 5 times, then it settled down at 62% and idled... During that process of troubleshooting the Turbo, I found the pass side up-pipe exhaust leak and replaced the blown bellows with a new up-pipe... Thinking that was the problem, I ran the VGT relearn again, and the truck still ran like crap. I then hooked up a shop vac to the exhaust and found the Intercooler was blown on the Hot Side, so I replaced the Intercooler and all CAC Tubes/Boots with Mishimoto parts and ran VGT relearn again... It STILL ran like crap, and blew black smoke... While working further still, my Appendix decided to burst and I spent the next month in the Hospital and then next 6 months recovering from the complications of that...
|04-06-2018 02:10 PM|
|stevedunham-2||Flagship One has a lifetime warranty on their PCM/ECU's so I will send it back and get it tested. Before that, I'll swap in the original PCM and see if the truck starts, validating the problem is the PCM or not... I don't have the DTC P0606 which indicates the PCM processor is faulty however... I suppose the other possibility is the engine harness where it runs past the oil filter tower...|
|04-06-2018 01:16 PM|
Figured out how to get my Positive probe on the pigtail pin(s) and with the Key on, I get .2 Volts DC on 1 pin and .13 Volts on the other at the pigtail connector. I disconnected all 3 of the PCM connectors, cleaned with Electrical contact cleaner, re-installed and nothing changed. I then ran AE again to see if any new codes showed up while cranking, here are the codes I have now...
CODE - CONDITION ( PROBABLE CAUSES)
P0603 - Internal Control module KAM error (open PCM pin, disconnected B+, faulty PCM)
P0670 - Glow Plug Control Circuit Malfunction (open/grounded circuit, failed GPCM, failed PCM)
U0306 - Software incompatible with FICM (PCM and FICM not originals)
Generic Powertrain codes
C2202 - Passenger side seat track position switch short to ground
P0201 - Injector Circuit malfunction, Cylinder 1 (Faulty cyl 1 injector, Wiring harness open or short, electrical connection in the harness or connector, failed PCM)
Sure are lots of codes with probable cause of a FAILED PCM.. It's an updated PCM purchased from Flagship One installed 6/2015 when I was bulletproofing the engine and I wanted all the updated PCM flash software in the truck... I still have the original PCM which I suppose I could put back in to see it the truck starts before I buy another...
|04-06-2018 12:03 PM|
|stevedunham-2||Received the Motorcraft Cam Sensor today and went out before the impending snowstorm and installed it. Tested it first, FWIW, ant it tests at 784 Ohms, which technically isn't to specs of between 800 and 1000 ohms... Installed the CMP sensor and the truck still won't fire. FICM Synch = 0 , CMP/CKP Synch = 0 still... Checked the FICM connectors, cleaned WITH ELECTRIC CONTACT CLEANER (not Brake fluid), reconnected, still won't fire. I get an RPM signal when cranking so the Crank Sensor should be good in theory. Checked oil level and it's fine, checked ICP, IPR when cranking and they look fine. Batteries are fully charged and sitting at 12.7 V. Checked the 3 connectors at the PCM on the fenderwell and they are tight and no signs of loom wear... I then decided to try to test the CMP Pigtail to see if I am getting any voltage at the pigtail when KOEO... Hard to tell to be honest, it's not a consistent signal... Hard to probe the pigtail pins at the connector they are so small and tight... Should I not be getting a 12V signal at the pigtail on 1 pin or the other when the VOM is grounded to the battery and I probe both pins with the VOM's positive lead...? It's about to start snowing any minute now... Such joy............................................... ................................................ Getting nowhere fast at this point...|
|04-03-2018 01:21 PM|
Some truly bizarre stuff going on now... I ordered another CMP sensor and am waiting for it, but until it arrives, I decided to test CMP circuit continuity after the pigtail repair job. I connected one pin of the pigtail to my VOM (hot lead), set the VOM to DC Volts, connected the VOM Ground to the battery ground, turned the key to the run position BUT DID NOT CRANK THE ENGINE, while the Glow Plugs were warming up, I got a loud POP from the exhaust pipe and some white smoke puffed out....! ***...? I'm baffled by that event...
I then tried to test each of the 3 failed Cam Sensors by using the old pigtail connector connected to each CMP. I hooked 1 wire from the CMP connector to Ground on the VOM, hooked the other wire to the hot lead, set the VOM to AC Volts, and waved a metal wratchet wrench by the end of the sensors magnet... The AC voltage setting showed no response. Switched to DC volts and get a wide range between .15 and 15.5 when moving a metal object back and forth in front of the magnet... The VOM doesn't react very fast, and is very inconsistent, so I'm really not convinced that test works very well...
|04-02-2018 05:15 PM|
Got the pigtail kit and repaired that today, painstakingly unwrapping the tape, foil and wire from the pigtail. Unwrapped it well back into the main harness, probably 8 - 10 inches from where it meets the EBP Sensor wiring and takes a 90 degree turn down the main loom towards the PCM on the fenderwell. No signs whatsoever of any wire breakage, wear marks, etc... The pigtail looked fine. Soldered the wires making sure to match the original wiring orientation from the connector, shrink wrapped, re-wrapped the bare wire, re-wrapped the foil shielding, installed new 1/4" loom, re-taped loom all the way to the pigtail with Scotch 33+ tape... Turned the key, waited for glow plugs, tried to start, NO GO...! No CMP/CKP Synch, no FICM Synch.... Pulled the current CMP sensor and tested it along with the last 2 I kept from the last 2 CMP signal failures... With VOM, they tested 804 Ohms, 845 Ohms and 854 Ohms respectively... Not that it means much...
Ordering another FORD OEM CMP Sensor I guess at this point.. UN-B-FRICKIN'LIEVABLE...
|03-29-2018 11:28 AM|
|bismic||Also seem to recall an EGR code for you. The attached summaries are from Ford|
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